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Ok I know you guys are shy at coming forward but tell me what you think,

I have some LED floor lights to be put into a tiled bathroom floor.
The cut out size is 20mm and the flex on the light is 1M therefore I was thinking of crimping the flex to T&E under the floor and heat shrinking it so that the cables will run to a JB outside the bathroom.

Any better ideas would be appreciated
 
Ok I know you guys are shy at coming forward but tell me what you think,

I have some LED floor lights to be put into a tiled bathroom floor.
The cut out size is 20mm and the flex on the light is 1M therefore I was thinking of crimping the flex to T&E under the floor and heat shrinking it so that the cables will run to a JB outside the bathroom.

Any better ideas would be appreciated
I would recommend soldered over crimped, the problem with crimped is they can generate quite a bit of heat.

had one a while ago that had the insulation tape burning
 
Yes you are.
:)
Seriously though, If the lights are lifted is there going to be enough slack on the cables to get to any joint? My guess is that there would be but I'd be more likely to go with wagos in a box mate.
 
The problem I have is the 20mm cut out which stop any type if enclosure being used but I would still want to be able to pull them out afterwards in case of any failures plus the original install would have to be done after the tiles are laid.
 
The problem I have is the 20mm cut out which stop any type if enclosure being used but I would still want to be able to pull them out afterwards in case of any failures plus the original install would have to be done after the tiles are laid.
2 lever wago's?

I would extend the cables personally though.


why not bring the cable to the skirtingboard?

you can have your connections there then (couple bits of 20mm conduit/copex) underfloor to make it easier)
 
Believe me I'm not drilling the tiles I'm leaving a 2" hole in the floor so that he can drill the tiles and stick em down
Any way thanks for all your responses glad to see I wasn't making a complete --- of myself for a change
i would have done the thanks thing but it's not working but will give it one more go
 
Not the best picky!

Plinth Lights.jpg
 
Could you shorten the flex from sealed unit so that you can access (crimped or other) joints by removing sealed unit, without having to pull 1m of flex out?
 
I would recommend soldered over crimped, the problem with crimped is they can generate quite a bit of heat.

had one a while ago that had the insulation tape burning

Maybe if you use cheap crimps and crimpers that you can pick up in Argos... I use good quality crimps and knipex crimpers that cost £100+, I know my crimps are good solid connections. They are heat shrink glue lined and I put a length of glue lined heat shrink over the three crimps to enclose them all.
 
Maybe if you use chep crimps and crimpers that you can pick up in Argos... I use good quality crimps and knipex crimpers that cost £100+, I know my crimps are good solid connections. They are heat shrink glue lined and I put a length of glue lined heat shrink over the three crimps to enclose them all.
we are talking 35mm tails here.

well 35mm to 25.

I was set against it and had already ordered the cable (35mm like for like is best) before being told to use 25mm they already had.


for normal red, yellow and blue crimps my silverline crimpers are fine. I was suprised how good they were to be honest.
 
Never had a butt/through crimp fail on me yet, but then i don't use those bulky coloured PVC covered butt crimps. I use either the coloured heat shrink butt crimps, or plain crimps followed by two layers of heat shrink tube....
 
Could you shorten the flex from sealed unit so that you can access (crimped or other) joints by removing sealed unit, without having to pull 1m of flex out?

spiffing good idea, what. as long as there's enough slack on the incoming cable to the joint, can't see a problem as long as the joint will pull through a 20mm hole
 

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