cable layout for kitchen appliances

voltage · Dec 21, 2011

hey all after a bit of advice doing some diagrams for kitchen layout for intergrated fridge freezer and intergrated washing machine just seeing if my diagram was correct. Any advice will be appreciated many thanks.

Amp David · Dec 21, 2011

Cant read it too small

Richard Burns · Dec 21, 2011

Vaguely looks like you are running a radial circuit feeding the two appliances with an SFCU for the washing machine, can't read the details but no problem with the idea. Probably you need a means of local isolation for the fridge freezer.

Lighthouse Phil · Dec 21, 2011

Think I can see what your hoping to do from your picture.
Looks like your going to connect the appliances via a spur outlet. If so, have a switched spur outlet at worktop level, supplying a single socket below worktop level. This allows your appliance to be disconnected from the supply without having to move the appliances. Also allows you to keep the plug top attached, this will not violate any warrenties from the machines makers.

voltage · Dec 21, 2011

put in bigger drawing now so hopefully you guys can see it. sorry the other one was so small my mistake.

Richard Burns · Dec 21, 2011

voltage said:
put in bigger drawing now so hopefully you guys can see it. sorry the other one was so small my mistake.

So long as your spur cable is 2.5mm2 and you put in isolation as lighthouse says then you should be OK for that section.
I would recommend DP isolation because of the prevalence of RCDs, also makes testing easier, especially if they are not on plugs.

voltage · Dec 21, 2011

thanks for replies guys. Yeah the spur cable would be 2.5mm.

Lighthouse Phil · Dec 21, 2011

Change the "flex outlet", on your fridge/freezer for a switched spur outlet, as per above replys.

Rockingit · Dec 21, 2011

Lighthouse Phil said:
Change the "flex outlet", on your fridge/freezer for a switched spur outlet, as per above replys.

Not necessarily! I fit trailing 13A sockets with the flex coming out of the wall all the time for kitchens (fed from an FSU) - it's SO much easier, and therefore safer when fitting and removing large appliances, and also means that you don't have the problem of first fixing the place THEN discovering that some kitchen unit is slightly out or there's a pipe or the applicance won't push back far enough.....

Engineer54 · Dec 21, 2011

Lighthouse Phil said:
Think I can see what your hoping to do from your picture.
Looks like your going to connect the appliances via a spur outlet. If so, have a switched spur outlet at worktop level, supplying a single socket below worktop level. This allows your appliance to be disconnected from the supply without having to move the appliances. Also allows you to keep the plug top attached, this will not violate any warrenties from the machines makers.

It wouldn't invalidate anything!!

I wish people would STOP perpetuating this dammed myth!!!

DPG · Dec 21, 2011

Going back to the FCU/wired direct method. Wiring a fridge to an FCU means the customer can't move it out of the room if they put new floor down, or even unplug it and plug a new one in. Can't see how that would be good, although that's my opinion only. Daz

johnboy6083 · Dec 21, 2011

dont bother with FCU's. use double pole switches. the plug top already has a fuse in it, and one above the worktop doesnt achieve anything. also i think the switches look nicer.

diditrain · Dec 21, 2011

Just helped a mate with his new kitchen, wired it for socket outlets behind the appliances, fed from double pole isolation switches. The appliances were integrated and they went right back to the wall almost. There was no room behind the appliance whatsoever to plug the appliance in. Had to modify things in a hurry.

Rockingit · Dec 21, 2011

diditrain said:
The appliances were integrated and they went right back to the wall almost. There was no room behind the appliance whatsoever to plug the appliance in. Had to modify things in a hurry.

That's exactly why I use trailing sockets on flex! Can throw them anywhere they fit, that way.

DaveyD · Dec 21, 2011

Rockingit said:
That's exactly why I use trailing sockets on flex! Can throw them anywhere they fit, that way.

That's interesting "Rocky". I have seen some on cable left in the floor but dont like that idea due to water ingress. So you chase down from DP switch below work top and then flex and socket hanging down the back od the appliance?

DaveyD · Dec 21, 2011

johnboy6083 said:
dont bother with FCU's. use double pole switches. the plug top already has a fuse in it, and one above the worktop doesnt achieve anything. also i think the switches look nicer.

I agree, I use 20a DP switches. I would like the idea of having the FCU above and an ufused outlet (like a cooker outlet) below. Never done it though. I agree the DP switch looks better but I think for end user ease of use the fuse being accessable for intergrated appliances is better.

Jimmyb · Dec 21, 2011

Engineer54 said:
It wouldn't invalidate anything!!

I wish people would STOP perpetuating this dammed myth!!!

I had a faulty fridge that i had cut the plug off and the supplier would not repair due to the plug being cut off, the customer had to write to head office and after 3 or 4 letter and 2 months later they final sent someone out to sort the problem

I cant understand why they are like this

Rockingit · Dec 21, 2011

DaveyD said:
That's interesting "Rocky". I have seen some on cable left in the floor but dont like that idea due to water ingress. So you chase down from DP switch below work top and then flex and socket hanging down the back od the appliance?

pretty much, yes. Just take the switched side out of DP/FSU/whatever (above counter) in 1.5mm 3093Y flex, bring down a chase to around 100mm off the floor, but NOT centre to where the appliance is, go off to one side, then just bring it proud and plaster (like you would do for a wall light cable). Leave a good 400-500mm as extra length, then fit a trailing socket. That way the appliances 13A plug can 1) go wherever it fits best in the gap at the back of the units and 2) not be at full stretch when fitting the appliance (esp useful for washing machines when trying to fit the water tubes).

Engineer54 · Dec 22, 2011

Jimmyb said:
I had a faulty fridge that i had cut the plug off and the supplier would not repair due to the plug being cut off, the customer had to write to head office and after 3 or 4 letter and 2 months later they final sent someone out to sort the problem

I cant understand why they are like this

You should have threatened them with legal action, they would have moved a darned sight quicker then!! Can't believe you let them ---- you around for 2 months.

They have NO legal standing whatsoever in voiding warranties for removing moulded plugs. They cannot dictate against the customers preferred connection method, for example the use of a FCU rather than a socket outlet!!