Hi all, just joined, starting my Nvq soon. Was wondering if I'm correct in assuming the cooker can be on a 6mm conductor on a 30amp RCD and the hood can be on 1.5mm if it's a spur?
- Thread starter Electromob
- Start date
drink bad for you. ok.. its not good point at all but the fuse within 3m would protect the cable and any fault current should be cleared before gets to high temp. is why its allowed. im not even sure if il ever come across it. case closed. you got a straw after listen to me
P
Paul.M
The point is, the 3m of 1.5mm is protected by a 300A fuse and therefore not protected at all. The FCU would only be protecting the cable after the FCU. What would happen if someone damages the 3m of cable with a nail? How many amps would they get? I bet the cable would burn out first but by that time your dead!
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Paul.M
But didn't you say earlier that it would be cheaper just to run the 1.5 from the busbar to the FCU? Now with mechanical protection the price on parts and labour are going up. Let's face it, shall we just use a mcb from the busbar to the appliance, there we go nice and simple and cheaper. Or if there isn't a spare mcb, tail off the busbar to a 2nd c/u or stand alone mcb via a double pole isolation switch. That's the correct application for the use of a cable coming from a busbar within 3m, not a spur to a cooker hood.
D
domestic spark
cooker circuit 6mm if thats ok, after you have done your calcs. find out wattage of, cooker and ex hood,
if its all worked out as ok, run 6mm t&e, from board to 50dp cooker switch, then keep load at 6mm out of cooker switch, to cooker outlet, then chace vertical from cooker outlet (up the wall) and put a single socket there keeping it 6mm. hood can then be plugged in which in turn fuses it down. to 2-3amps (whatever fuse is in plug.)
however if its a new install, run ex hood off of the ringmain via a fused spur. then you have your means of isolation sorted. and your ex hood will be fused down from the spur.
if its all worked out as ok, run 6mm t&e, from board to 50dp cooker switch, then keep load at 6mm out of cooker switch, to cooker outlet, then chace vertical from cooker outlet (up the wall) and put a single socket there keeping it 6mm. hood can then be plugged in which in turn fuses it down. to 2-3amps (whatever fuse is in plug.)
however if its a new install, run ex hood off of the ringmain via a fused spur. then you have your means of isolation sorted. and your ex hood will be fused down from the spur.
P
Paul.M
3 of us said that within the first 2 pages! The op question us for a domestic installation. Never mind ipu I'm sure we will debate other threads in the not so distant future
.Yes the cooker would be on a separate dedicated circuit, and the hood would take feed of a socket and then the hood on a 1.5. The cooker is a standard one nothing big n fancy goin into a student house. Thanx lads
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