DIN box for MICC? See post for more info

[overskilled]

So been asked to do a small job initially for a customer (namely flush mount a few existing surface mounted sockets)
While I was there I was asked how hard it would be to move a light switch...harder than I thought...cabled in Pyro. easy solution (agreed with the customer) to use a master and slave wireless light switch set.
Customer also asked for a quote to update the fusebox and relocate it from the top of the landing to the ground floor beside the meter.
The photo is what I'm up against....the whole house (apart from a few additions in the last 20 years and the supply from the switchfuse - massive old mem asbestos filled job) is done in pyro..
Plan being - Remove the old metal clad wylex board and the 2 mini boards, install a DIN box, extend the cables in T+E, drop down in maxi trunking, along the top of the ground floor ceiling (pretty hidden from view anyway) and down into the new CU. Switchfuse to be correctly disposed of, isolator fitted on the tails and new CU installed. All cleared with the customer (for once someone who doesn't do their nut over the suggestion of trunking...)
So I'm wondering if anyone can recommend a suitable metalclad DIN enclosure to allow me to secure the MICC. I've attached a photo for your perusal (going all posh now seemingly )

 

[telectrix]

why not strip the guts out of the metal wylex CU and fit a din rail in it. rivet a 1.0mm steel plate over to holes in the lid. quick aerosol. that saves disturbing the micc glands.

 

[ArseyDee]

Just out of interest, why do they want CU moved at all when such an arrangement will result in an enclosure at existing position, new CU downstairs and loads of trunking in between?

 

[ipf]

why not strip the guts out of the metal wylex CU and fit a din rail in it. rivet a 1.0mm steel plate over to holes in the lid. quick aerosol. that saves disturbing the micc glands.

Just a thought.
Do as tel says without the riveting, cut a bigger hole in the lid, for cable extensions and mount the new board on the existing one. Drill out the new cu at the existing lid screw positions for future access to the din rail.

edit: just noticed the cu relocation.....ah well, it was just a thought.

 

[overskilled]

She wants it moved as its near the ceiling and she isn't fond of ladders, also has kids and her view (and I can see her point) is that logically the fusebox should be near the meter...not at the other end of the house...

 

[overskilled]

Wouldn't even need the aerosol as its getting boxed in
Hmmmm
Steel plate, rivets....could be a goer.....
Was going to stick a notice by the new CU anyway basically stating "cable junction point in box at top of stairs"
Genius idea Tel....much appreciated mate unk:

 

[overskilled]

Also its not that much trunking to be honest maybe an 8 foot run at most...where its going is in shade during the day and out of sight to those descending the stairs until the last minute. Plus its a lot less upheaval than lifting the floor all the way along the stair and running cables through there...and cost the customer a lot more....costs being something they would like to keep a lid on (shopworker so not exactly loaded but would like their electrics improved)

 

[ArseyDee]

Fair enough.

At top of landing and remote from the meter does seem an odd place for it to be. Must've been a good reason for that at the time I suppose.

As for tels idea, I shall commit to memory and claim it as my own one day!

 

[mechelec]

Make sure you carry out a pre swap EICR as that MICC might cause you a few headaches with a split RCD board or RCBOs if it has got damp in the pots.

 

[ipf]

Make sure you carry out a pre swap EICR as that MICC might cause you a few headaches with a split RCD board or RCBOs if it has got damp in the pots.

Carry out the test, yes.....but if there's damp in them there pots I'd be amazed...more chance of damaging the terminated ends.

 

[overskilled]

Mech: Good point, definetely something I'll bear in mind, noted there can be issues with IR values especially if pyro isn't properly terminated.
Property had damp at one point now seemingly resolved, built in 1934, council's solution when they owned it, was to dpm and back fill the foundations with concrete to within 4 to 6 inches of the joists.
MICC run is a bit akin to a dog peeing in snow, comes down somewhere from above, hugs the door frame architrave then lurches towards the light switch in the dining room. Which is why I'm thinking lightwave switching to move the light switch.....I just get this bad feeling that if I try and cut a chase I'm going to strike some hidden micc....
Other option is decor trunking round the door frame but go floor to top of the architrave both sides and across the top, mitred in the corners so it looks like its part of the architrave, some half or quarter round stuff would fit in with the original skirtings elsewhere in the house....hmmm might be another possibility.
Looked at the price of maxi trunking at screwfix (6x2m 100x50mm)...bit hairy £70+VAT....for square hollow plastic...kin hell...almost as bad as CEF....

 

[telectrix]

why you need trunking that big? 2 x 2 should be plenty. £7 for 3m.

 

[overskilled]

probably don't, wasn't thinking in terms of inches....