Discuss Fitting Sockets. in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Something I’ve done since an apprentice (so I was probably told to by the experienced tradesman) is to terminate only the live and neutrals and press the socket back, with the sleeved earths just pulled straight up out between the box and socket.
This gives the L and N a tidy bend. And the earths can be added afterward easily as they’re thinner.
 
Something I’ve done since an apprentice (so I was probably told to by the experienced tradesman) is to terminate only the live and neutrals and press the socket back, with the sleeved earths just pulled straight up out between the box and socket.
This gives the L and N a tidy bend. And the earths can be added afterward easily as they’re thinner.
A tidy bend. Good description.
 
When fitting a 2G box, always bring the cables in the extreme LH or extreme RH knockout on the top or bottom of the box, never the middle one (or two, depending on make o box). Sweep the prepared tails all the way across to the other side of the box, then back to the middle to connect to the socket.
No sharp bends anywhere, and no trouble screwing the socket back.
 
When fitting a 2G box, always bring the cables in the extreme LH or extreme RH knockout on the top or bottom of the box, never the middle one (or two, depending on make o box). Sweep the prepared tails all the way across to the other side of the box, then back to the middle to connect to the socket.
No sharp bends anywhere, and no trouble screwing the socket back.
Unless you use an impact driver ?
 
There is always this thing, designed in and for the American Market but it may be useful.

That looks like it might actually be useful in consumer units when trying to snag wires out for testing - though might be too big to be practical - (was actually looking at plastic crochet hooks the other day as a possible option).

For sockets, rubbing the wires vigorously can help them to bend a little easier, especially if it's chilly.

Helps to have a good socket with sensible terminal placements too of course - the LAP (possibly some other brands too?) with L N terminals at the bottom are a right pain. Client/friend recently bought a load and I made him put them all on himself as penance (then inspected and corrected as needed).
 
No no no.... you use the smallest screwdriver you’ve got to screw back plates.... ones that dig into the slot when tight and leave it all chewed up.....
If you’re really good, you can mis-thread the screw, so you really have to force it.... it’ll never come out after that.

???
I personally prefer to use screws that are too long, and force them to bend over at the end when they hit the metal back box....
 
No No NO, your doing it all wrong...

2 inch #8 wood screw for face plates , that sucker will be nice and tight
 
No No NO, your doing it all wrong...

2 inch #8 wood screw for face plates , that sucker will be nice and tight

Recently removed BT master socket, when painting a wall, and found it was secured with wood screws. They probably come in sealed packaging with 3.5mm screws and this in a house less than 4 years old.
 

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