- Thread starter pritch
- Start date
I think you've answered your own question there.Hi,
I've fitted four 3w led spots to my bedroom. My touch sensitive light switches only work with a minimum of 40w load.
Any ideas please?
ps... Don't say add another 10 spots.
Change them for 10W LED spots. Then you'll be able to see what your doing.
A
Adam W
Agreed. If the lights don't work with the switch you need to change either the lights or the switch.
Maybe add 30W some other way, like a picture light.
O
Octopus
Or if they are GU10 leds remove one LED and fix a 50W halogen?
A
Adam W
It's a good idea but I think you'd have a job trying to match a halogen to the LEDs.
L
Leesparkykent
what do you mean? gu10 led and replace it with a gu10 halogen.
I think it's a terrible idea. Why change from halogens to LED in the first place, just to be fitting halogens again.
Chances of being able to dim 12W of LED lighting are slim, and that's even if the LED lamps are dimmable as most aren't
What do you like more? your light switch or your new LED lights? Change your switch. Easy.
The switches are the expensive touch sensitive remote control ones. I could change the switch in the bedroom but the real reason I asked is because eventually I would like to change the spots on the landing to led lights which are controlled by four intermediate switches ( the expensive ones)
Just thought there could be some way of increasing the load to the switch some other way.
L
Leesparkykent
obviously if you want to increase the load you have to add more lights or change the lamps for higher wattage ones. you cant just magically increase the load. make a decision led lamps and change the switches or keep the switches and change the lamps for higher wattage ones, simples
It is me, I thought the idea of energy efficient lighting was to reduce the load!
Hi,
I've fitted four 3w led spots to my bedroom. My touch sensitive light switches only work with a minimum of 40w load.
Any ideas please?
ps... Don't say add another 10 spots.
Why do you want a dimmer in the bedroom for?
Main light to get dressed and undressed with bedside lights to read by or for getting into bed before going to sleep.
Thought had occurred to me too, but I'm making an assumption given the incredibly basic level of the question that the OP wouldn't have the capability to safely fit one.
K
Knobhead
There's a couple of reasons dimmers have a minimum load requirement which is usually stated in watts, either it's to ensure the stability of the diac or triac by providing sufficient current flow to allow them to fire or it's to allow sufficient current leakage through the dimmer when it's off so the internal circuitry that detects the touch on/off can still work.
If you know of an electronics repair shop that can work down to component level they may be able to add an internal bleed circuit to the dimmer which will allow it to work with a much reduced load. Also if it's an oldish dimmer the minimum load requirement stated on it will refer to incandescent load, you may find that it can operate with maybe half that stated load with LED lamps. You'd need to experiment.
**edit** not sure why everyone thinks this is a DIY question, the matching of phase control dimmers to appropriate loads is a technical issue.
If you know of an electronics repair shop that can work down to component level they may be able to add an internal bleed circuit to the dimmer which will allow it to work with a much reduced load. Also if it's an oldish dimmer the minimum load requirement stated on it will refer to incandescent load, you may find that it can operate with maybe half that stated load with LED lamps. You'd need to experiment.
**edit** not sure why everyone thinks this is a DIY question, the matching of phase control dimmers to appropriate loads is a technical issue.
M
mayfair
An excellent example of the sort of answers that should be on this forum, thank you Marvo. fed up of seeing one line abusive posts by people trying to get their post count up.
E
Engineer54
That's all very well, but probably not a very cost effective solution. Even if you could find an outlet that will undertake this work, the cost will be such that purchasing a suitable replacement dimmer would be the better solution, that or replace the dimmer with a normal wall switch....
E
Engineer54
Agreed, it might not be cheap, which ever way you go with this issue there's sacrifices to be made.
D
davesparks
Or the existing product I mentioned earlier, the danlers resloade which is a 10W resistive load in an enclosure designed to be used in this situation and fits nicely through a downlight hole.
It appears to be a DIY question because this problem has been around for a good few years now along with the simple soloution of adding a small resistive load. It seems unlikely at first glance that a working electrician will not have come across this before or not have the knowledge to establish what the cause of the problem is.
Plus of course the wording of the original post didn't come across as being written by a technically minded person.
I'd not spotted that one. Might well be worth keeping one in the van stock.
Resistive Load Device 10w
O
Octopus
I note this has been edited by the mods and as such is precisely the type of "atititude" by occassional posters who flout the forum rules.
D
davesparks
Which wholesaler quoted you that price?
Instead of asking 'any ideas please' you could ask 'is there a way to make this work without adding extra lights or changing the switch?' Or 'is there a way of satisfying the minimum load requirement without adding more lights'
D
davesparks
This is what I was talking about yesterday, a quick note at the end of that post in italics to say 'edited due to inappropriate language, moderator1' or whatever the reason was would have helped everyone understand
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