Main bonding, what to do....

[polo1]

A second floor flat, hi spec decoration and finishes, and the incoming water supply (in copper) is on the other side of the flat from the CU which is to be replaced. There is currently no main bonding, but the gas will be relatively straightforward.
The floors are all done in hardwood, the ceilings have original plaster coving. An upgraded CU is going to be a significant improvement even without the water incomer being bonded, but.......!
What would you do?

 

[ipf]

Get the MT2 out and bond it to the deco..?

 

[davesparks]

Find the nearest part of the water main which you can reasonably get a bond to and after checking that it is continuous copper back to the stopcock then bond it there.

Possibly attach a small label to the stopcock explaining where the bonding has been connected and that the pipe must not be changed for non-conductive pipe without seeking the advice of an electrician.

 

[polo1]

Gee, never thought of that - thanks!:6: I did mention 1/4 round trunking at skirting level, but the air got decidedly frosty :<(

 

[polo1]

Find the nearest part of the water main which you can reasonably get a bond to and after checking that it is continuous copper back to the stopcock then bond it there.

Possibly attach a small label to the stopcock explaining where the bonding has been connected and that the pipe must not be changed for non-conductive pipe without seeking the advice of an electrician.

Dave, that would be a plan, but there is nothing copper remotely near the CU that does not involve using trunking, which the customer simply won't agree to. I think I've considered all the possibilities - I guess I'm wondering if others would just walk away.

 

[Corbs]

i dont like doing it but what about running it outside? run it round the perimeter ????????

 

[guest119]

No main bonding at all would generally indicate a very old installation.
Therefor, what is the final circuits wiring, PVC?

Boydy

 

[Geordie Spark]

Dave, that would be a plan, but there is nothing copper remotely near the CU that does not involve using trunking, which the customer simply won't agree to. I think I've considered all the possibilities - I guess I'm wondering if others would just walk away.

Is there any chance of chopping about 6" of the copper out at the point of entry & replacing it with plastic then it wouldn't need bonding. Use push fit to make it easier as I know sparks are absolutely useless with pipes & things.

 

[davesparks]

Dave, that would be a plan, but there is nothing copper remotely near the CU that does not involve using trunking, which the customer simply won't agree to. I think I've considered all the possibilities - I guess I'm wondering if others would just walk away.

I wouldn't walk away, unless they decline my quote!

There is always a way!

Without seeing the rooms it is hard to be certain but have you considered getting some white 10mm instead of G/Y and clipping with P clips and white painted screws? Assuming the skirting a are white this could be made near invisible.
You'll want the P clips with the thin coating on like MI clips not the ones with thick plastic carp as they are bigger and more unsightly.

I am doing similar but with black for a job next week in a listed building with black oak beams to follow.


I get a lot of business thanks to my creative thinking and attitude of 'adapt and overcome'

 

[Gavin A]

it's a 2nd floor flat?

is it not bonded at the water not bonded at the main incoming point to the building itself?

That's presumably where it's coming out of the ground, not in the 2nd floor flat, so as long as it's bonded down there, and the continuity tests out to the pipework in the flat, then there's not really any need to also bond in the flat is there?

 

[davesparks]

it's a 2nd floor flat?

is it not bonded at the water not bonded at the main incoming point to the building itself?

That's presumably where it's coming out of the ground, not in the 2nd floor flat, so as long as it's bonded down there, and the continuity tests out to the pipework in the flat, then there's not really any need to also bond in the flat is there?

Yes because that very bond at the incoming position could be making it extraneous with respect of the installation he is working in.

The bonding is required at the point of entry to each installation, not necessarily meaning each building.
Guidance note 8 has some good diagrams to illustrate this

 

[Gavin A]

Yes because that very bond at the incoming position could be making it extraneous with respect of the installation he is working in.

The bonding is required at the point of entry to each installation, not necessarily meaning each building.
Guidance note 8 has some good diagrams to illustrate this

would you bond the pipes on the upstairs floor of a house to a sub board up there?

technically you're probably right, but on an 'is it safe' basis, chances are it's as safe as any other large building with main bonding only at the entry points to the building, and if it's not reasonably practicable to bond the water pipe into the flat itself, then as long as it all tests out ok and the bonding for the building was in place at the origin then I don't see that it'd necessarily justify ripping the floor up or whatever seems to be needed to bond the pipes within the flat.

This would only apply if the water and gas pipes all came from common source in the building, and I'd think would particularly apply if al the electrical meters were also in the same place (which the OP doesn't mention the location of)

I think I've got GN8 in the van though, so will have a look tomorrow to refresh my memory. Bit late now to be thinking about this.

 

[atm84]

Dave, that would be a plan, but there is nothing copper remotely near the CU that does not involve using trunking, which the customer simply won't agree to. I think I've considered all the possibilities - I guess I'm wondering if others would just walk away.

I wouldn't walk away, unless they decline my quote!

There is always a way!

Without seeing the rooms it is hard to be certain but have you considered getting some white 10mm instead of G/Y and clipping with P clips and white painted screws? Assuming the skirting a are white this could be made near invisible.
You'll want the P clips with the thin coating on like MI clips not the ones with thick plastic carp as they are bigger and more unsightly.

I am doing similar but with black for a job next week in a listed building with black oak beams to follow.


I get a lot of business thanks to my creative thinking and attitude of 'adapt and overcome'

I think that you will find that main bonds should be G/Y

 

[Guest77]

I think that you will find that main bonds should be G/Y

what if they are painted? and what if the white cable is identified at the termination with green and yellow sleeving? come on now.

 

[telectrix]

could use white cable and paint green/yellow stripes all along. :smilielol5::smilielol5: