E

elsid

A customer had recently purchased a brand new class 1 fan assisted flame effect electric fire in perfect working order, one that looks like a cast iron wood burner but is made of MDF painted black. It failed the earth bond test repeatedly but past the Leakage test. As the metal casing was underneath and on the back and had the CE mark, I past it telling him that it did not meet the safety regulations but I thought it was safe to use. Was I right or should I have failed it and told him to return it.
 
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If it's brand new it should comply.
Just because it's stamped CE doesn't mean it's compliant.
Just because it's new doesn't always mean it will, the design may have changed during production.

Is it from a well known E.U manufacturer or from outside and just has CE stamped on ?it.
 
if the appliance has no exposed conductive parts, it could be classII. there should then be a double square symbol somewhere on it.
 
The fact that your in doubt means I would have probably failed it, then at least your arse is covered
 
if the appliance has no exposed conductive parts, it could be classII. there should then be a double square symbol somewhere on it.
There was an exposed metal housing underneath and the back panel was sheet metal. No class ll symbol and the plug was wired correctly with an earth. I realise I should have failed it but as it was new I did not want to open a can of worms, so to speak.
 
why dont you google the make and model and get the technical sheet from the manufacturer or supplier
 
There was no makers name or model, he bought it from a discount furniture shop which is now closing down.
 
Was there a reason you were asked to test a brand new piece of equipment. I assume that there was no certificate of conformity with the appliance .........................
 
Also for future post add a photo I do it all the time either by camera or phone and I attach a before and after for the letting agent or landlord as it costs nothing to do and they quite like it
 
if theres no evidence/label indicating thats its class 2.....then treat it as class 1......but on a new piece of portable/current using equipment a quick look at the flex will often give the game away....
 
if theres no evidence/label indicating thats its class 2.....then treat it as class 1......but on a new piece of portable/current using equipment a quick look at the flex will often give the game away....

I agree as it states this in th COP
 
Did you get any readings from the tester, how far was it out ? Did you get a really good connection with the probe, sometimes when i am just about to fail on earth bond i sometimes manage to find a decent bit of clean metal to probe on.
cheers
 
If its got exposed metalwork on the underside, it must be part of the appliance chassis - that's where you pick up your earth connection.
"Simples"....
 
Sorry to resurrect an old posting but .....

I've tried to test a kettle recently that was less than a year old, Morphy Richards or some other brand that I can't remember (well known though) and they said it came from John Lewis'. It was Class I, three pins, no ClassII markings at all, but apart from the hot plate inside the kettle there is no exposed conductive material on them - they are plastic and I can't get any earth continuity anywhere, not even inside on the stainless steel plates (there are no elements exposed directly to the water). No leakage to earth, no touch current, insulation resistance good.

What do you do when you can't otherwise find any earth continuity due to surfaces being painted, non conductive, but is Class I construction. It must be fairly common isn't it?

Thanks for any comments. (Fluke 6200)
 

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No Earth Bond, was I right to pass?
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elsid,
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