Thread adapter (different pitchs)

T

Tidy Max

Alreet chaps.

Does anybody know of a thread adapter that will connect gas/water fittings to electrical ones.

I.e. 15mm compression end to a 20mm lamp holder?
 
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Soldered ends will look crap. Ive built a desk lamp out of copper pipe and used 15mm elbows and tees. I have some brass bc lamp holders with a 20mm female thread. I knew the compression end had a different pitch thread i just thought i would cross that bridge when i got there....

I am now there lol. Neither the wholesalers, plumbers merchants or commercial "we do everything under the sun" merchants can help.

I will be building a fitting soon with soldered joints but as for this one i am abit stuck :) ill check the links when i am back at my laptop! Cheers for the advice
 
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Get yourself a Eurofluids or Harrier catalogue,and research the adapters available,they are all in there,and if not,your in specials territory.

Alternatively,learn to solder correctly,then silver-solder your own.

It is a fading art,which has excellent mechanical and aesthetic appeal,if it's good enough for a £120,000 shotgun,it's good enough for a comedy desk lamp...:icon12:
 
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PEG said:
Get yourself a Eurofluids or Harrier catalogue,and research the adapters available,they are all in there,and if not,your in specials territory.

Alternatively,learn to solder correctly,then silver-solder your own.

It is a fading art,which has excellent mechanical and aesthetic appeal,if it's good enough for a £120,000 shotgun,it's good enough for a comedy desk lamp...:icon12:
Click to expand...

This is what I used to Braze, Silver Solder then caulk with soft solder. It's a boiler for a model steam locomotive. This one isn't mine but it's very similar.

IMG_0910.JPG
 
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Very smart :) I have been building various light fittings. I have done one from copper compression fittings and one from galv conduit (the galv conduit one is CRAP) looks more like a zimmer frame.

I will watch some videos on brazing. It isn't something i have ever needed to do. Worth having another skill though!
 
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There's a couple of options if you're building table lamps. One skill which needs a bit of practice but I found particularly useful is being able to solder from the inside of a joint. You meticulously clean and flux the joint and pre-assemble it then you thread the solder wire inside the fitting to the joint and heat the joint gently until the solder starts to melt. It naturally runs from the inside of the joint between the capillary surfaces of the joint if you move the heat correctly. It's a very neat joint because there's no external marks where the solder was applied. The crucial thing as well is the fluxing of the joint, the solder naturally follows the areas that have been fluxed so if your fluxing is not accurate there will be solder in places where it's not wanted when the joint is finished.
 
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To be honest the thing that put me off using soldered connections (especially for the design i have done). Is that it wouldn't look as good. Each elbow or tee looks good because it is bulky and has the compression nut which (i think) adds to the industrial style of it.

I intend on building some copper wall lights on wooden mounts which i may use soldered ends for as i can imagine the smooth finish being a lot nicer!

I purchased a few things off fleabay last night to finish the lights (thanks to Mykey for the obvious heads up!). I bought a few 1/2bsp bayonet holders and some 3core braided flex. I am still looking for the cheapest place to get them from. I have a lampfix catalogue at home but i get the stuff through CEF which i am sure will not be my cheapest option!
 
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Geordie Spark said:
This is what I used to Braze, Silver Solder then caulk with soft solder. It's a boiler for a model steam locomotive. This one isn't mine but it's very similar.

IMG_0910.JPG
Click to expand...


...Lovely,proper engineering,with not a silicone gun in sight...

There is a long established model steam society near where i live,based in a park,which has had a working track around it,all of my life (Chassen Park)

From time to time,i call upon the skills of some members,when precision drilling,milling or other micro-tasks,are required.

The other week,one such gentleman,of late 70's vintage,was machining a top lever for me,off an old Browning O/U,and we got talking about engineering etc....

I like to keep at least a toe in the 21st century,so i steered the conversation to the topic of 3-D printers,and the wonder of that technology.......I would have got the same silent stare,if i had told him i put a bodice on at weekends,and people called me Gloria....

A priceless character,never the less :icon12:
 
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PEG said:
There is a long established model steam society near where i live,based in a park,which has had a working track around it,all of my life (Chassen Park)
Click to expand...

Well, I never knew that was there!
Going to have to check that out next time I go down The Railway :-)
 
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Tidy Max said:
Very smart :) I have been building various light fittings. I have done one from copper compression fittings and one from galv conduit (the galv conduit one is CRAP) looks more like a zimmer frame.

I will watch some videos on brazing. It isn't something i have ever needed to do. Worth having another skill though!
Click to expand...

Good lad!

You can never have too many skills.

Brazing is like gas welding but using a brass "welding" rod.
 
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Tidy Max said:
Just picked up a length of black malleable iron pipe....... but its red?! Looks like i am going to have to get the next fitting powder coated!
Click to expand...

The word "black" when used to describe this material has little to do with the colour of it!

(as you have just found out! ;) )

If you want to know where the "black" comes into it then Google is your friend.
 
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ffs, i chopped it in half in the back of the plumbers merchants (6.1m length and it needed to go on the berlingo roof) chucked it over my shoulder and carried it out and as i got into the sunlight i realised!

I wasn't going back into the lions den and making a numpty out of myself i'd rather front the £22 than look like an idiot! Why aren't the elbows and tees red as well?! how irritating! All of the adapters are the exact colour i wanted the lamp to be!
 
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Ive snapped the flaming threading tool :'( i only managed 4 threads, one whole twist half a twist back just like i do galv, i used threading compound too, and the thing just snapped!

Well annoyed!
 
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Tidy Max said:
Just picked up a length of black malleable iron pipe....... but its red?! Looks like i am going to have to get the next fitting powder coated!
Click to expand...

Join the club ;-)

I made that mistake at the foundry. We needed 10 lengths, there was 5 lengths of black finish in stock so in all innocents I placed an order for the rest. Just to rub it in the fitters ran it with alternate colours.
 
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What a ballache, so can i not get black malleable any more? I am going to ring around today, surely they should state black malleable with a red oxide finish!
 
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Most people who order it aren’t that bothered what the colour is. A pipe is a pipe, so long as it doesn’t leak, who’s bothered.

The job I mentioned above worked perfectly and after a month it was the same shade of ---- grey as the rest of the plant.
 
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Tidy Max said:
Ive snapped the flaming threading tool :'( i only managed 4 threads, one whole twist half a twist back just like i do galv, i used threading compound too, and the thing just snapped!

Well annoyed!
Click to expand...

THAT was your mistake!

It's the way I was taught in the school metalwork shop but the first time I did it at our workshop at home my Dad went ballistic!

His argument was that when you turn it backwards you risk breaking a bit of the dies teeth off and then it jams & breaks.

When I started my apprenticeship I was shown to do it without winding it back - just like Dad said!

And, when you think about, it tapping attachments that you use in drilling machines don't wind back half a turn either. They just keep going in the same direction.
 
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Well Geordie, that half a twist back has caused quite an unbelievable catastrophic failure.... i would take a photo but ive left the broken bits in my van.... and i've just put me jim jams on hahaha

edit: i actually have a photo on my phone that i look of the side of the die before i took the cover that holds the jaws in off. Just dropboxxing it now which on our internet connection takes an age
 
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Tidy Max said:
Well Geordie, that half a twist back has caused quite an unbelievable catastrophic failure.... i would take a photo but ive left the broken bits in my van.... and i've just put me jim jams on hahaha

edit: i actually have a photo on my phone that i look of the side of the die before i took the cover that holds the jaws in off. Just dropboxxing it now which on our internet connection takes an age
Click to expand...

It isn't unbelievable to me - I would expect it! ;)
 
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Tidy Max said:
View attachment 28441

So when i removed the 4 screws on the chrome bit the rest of the die basically sh#t its self. Fractured straight across!
Click to expand...


...Oh dear...that looks more "wijid" than "Rigid" :conehead:

I have an old multi die head,"Presto" i think,1/2" BSP to 1 1/2" BSP,it is older than me,and i'm old enough to remember when you could boast about having a "Jim'll fix it" badge....

Still works a treat...must be that 40 year old Mistic concentrate i squirt on it...:icon12:

Just another tip,Tidy,if you decide to build your own,using soldering,brazing techniques,is make a jig to hold your creation in the desired shape.

Do not rely on the fact that fittings are "straight" or "90 degrees",the clearance,for the joining medium,will cause accumulated inaccuracies.

This can be demonstrated to tyros,by getting them to solder six short pieces of 15mm together,using five straight connectors,the first being held horizontal,in a vice.

....It looks like something that wouldn't father children...:icon12:
 
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