Hi, this is my first post although I’ve been using the forums since I started training 18 months ago. I’m an adult learner at night school and almost finished my Level 2.
A few weeks ago I started a job as an electrical improver with a housing trust and today did my first ever board change (after a partial re-wire) :)
Any advice/tips/criticisms about what you can see would be appreciated!
Welcome to posting on the forum.

The board looks like a nice neat job but I would say you should invest in some grommets or grommet strip as using T&E sheath as cable entry protection is a bit tacky and in this case does not cover all the hole.

I like the fact that you have the circuit cores over the internal board tails so that they are accessible for later work, good move.
No signs of exposed copper (except for the manufacturers!)
I note you have the board cover off with the CU powered up.
A few very minor points of detail, if the main earth could be arranged so it was clear of the main cable entries and away from the line cores later work would be easier as it would if there were slightly more'loop' on the cpcs in the earth bar. It looks as if there is strain on the up front isolator cover (good idea to have had one of those fitted) from the angle of the tails so it would be better if they could be bent back slightly. It would also mean the tails went in straight to the terminals and were more secure.
There is a nice line on the tails into the CU isolator.
Spreading out the lines after cable entry and ensuring no crossovers helps circuit tracing.
Cpc 4 and 5 might be a bit loose compared to the terminal screw height of cpc 3.
Good neat runs on the lines and neutrals and they are all in the correct order.
It looks as if the loads are evenly spread between the RCDs.
Overall no problems there (apart from the grommets) for a first board change I would say that was pretty much spot on,and probably neater than my efforts.
 
Hi Richard,

I’ve read a lot of your replies in other forum posts and value your feedback.

You’ve made some good points, thankyou. In the morning we’re going back to test so I’ll try to make a few changes. I’ll see if I can remove the strain on the tails leaving the isolator, I’ll re-arrange the main earth cable and check the tightness of all connections.

I definitely agree with not using t&e sheath for protection and didn’t like using it but was asked to by the electrician I’m working with. I’m now gonna buy some grommet strip so I’ve got some for future boards I install! :-)

Thanks again for your feedback!
 
IMG_9398.JPG
Level 2 College Project

Everything except the emergency stop button
 
View attachment 41475 Level 2 College Project

Everything except the emergency stop button
only 2 things on there that i absolutely hate are cable ties not cut flush, and cable ties round the lip of the tray. you can buy precision flush cutters for a few quid. otherwise, a nice neat install. tese are what i use.

Xuron 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutter - Heamar Company Limited - https://www.heamar.co.uk/cutters/43926-xuron-170-11-micro-shear-flush-cutter-615265902053.html?gmc=3&gclid=CjwKCAjw4sLVBRAlEiwASblR-_KEqWJQosNVsEQEVq99JbrKlx5ax-OKNAw8aVjHwV8vgs7ANV-HDRoCst0QAvD_BwE
 
only 2 things on there that i absolutely hate are cable ties not cut flush, and cable ties round the lip of the tray. you can buy precision flush cutters for a few quid. otherwise, a nice neat install. tese are what i use.

Xuron 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutter - Heamar Company Limited - https://www.heamar.co.uk/cutters/43926-xuron-170-11-micro-shear-flush-cutter-615265902053.html?gmc=3&gclid=CjwKCAjw4sLVBRAlEiwASblR-_KEqWJQosNVsEQEVq99JbrKlx5ax-OKNAw8aVjHwV8vgs7ANV-HDRoCst0QAvD_BwE

None of the cable ties are around the lip, it's not the best picture but they are all on the base of the tray itself.
 
Do these comments mean it's a nice safe installation, well thought out and maybe just a couple of quibbles about personal preferences?
If so, then it's a pretty nice job, methinks...
I would hate to be judged on my work, so well done Alex W
 
Tel...do you really shop there? The snips are cheap enough but...
Astro 621191SS Crimp Tool, SS, Mini Micro ADJ - Heamar Company Limited - https://www.heamar.co.uk/mil-spec-crimp-tools-locators/42874-astro-621191ss-crimp-tool-ss-mini-micro-adj.html?gmc=3&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1tDNuqL-2QIVyovtCh3MNgCIEAEYASAGEgJDB_D_BwE
I mean I really, really want these...but even a total tool tart (Note: always avoid aliteration!) like me would have to think twice...
Christ! I paid less than that for my van.
 
Here is a board i done in February last year it has an off peak supply to the right.

The other board was done december last year this one is on the back of a led bill board for jc de caux i had completed 48 of these

20180206_112642.jpg


20180911_095130.jpg
 
Nice tidy work there Gareth :)

I'm curious about the billboard... I guess depending on size I wouldn't have expected there to be a distribution board inside. What do all those devices protect?
 
They are wired to a jb on the back of the screens then from there into an inverter
There was 9 jbs per screen the box to the right is an rfi filter which is connected to a socket in an it cabinet which is below tgat board these screens were bigger than a full size football goal.
 
Probably child's play to most of you guys, but I'm a LVL2 2365 and I completed my Unit 204 practical exam the other day, here's some pics

IMG_20190502_113731.jpg IMG_20190502_113816.jpg IMG_20190502_113820.jpg IMG_20190501_150930.jpg IMG_20190502_113349.jpg IMG_20190501_150717.jpg

Annoyingly City & Guilds have changed the marking scheme to only be a pass or fail for this exam, instead of Pass/Merit/Distinction. But my tutor was still grading internally to the old criteria, and I got marked as Distinction quality work so I'm dead chuffed with myself.
 
Probably child's play to most of you guys, but I'm a LVL2 2365 and I completed my Unit 204 practical exam the other day, here's some pics

Annoyingly City & Guilds have changed the marking scheme to only be a pass or fail for this exam, instead of Pass/Merit/Distinction. But my tutor was still grading internally to the old criteria, and I got marked as Distinction quality work so I'm dead chuffed with myself.

Keep up the good work!
 
Probably child's play to most of you guys, but I'm a LVL2 2365 and I completed my Unit 204 practical exam the other day, here's some pics

View attachment 49257 View attachment 49258 View attachment 49259 View attachment 49261 View attachment 49262 View attachment 49260

Annoyingly City & Guilds have changed the marking scheme to only be a pass or fail for this exam, instead of Pass/Merit/Distinction. But my tutor was still grading internally to the old criteria, and I got marked as Distinction quality work so I'm dead chuffed with myself.


Where are you studying ?
 
Probably child's play to most of you guys, but I'm a LVL2 2365 and I completed my Unit 204 practical exam the other day, here's some pics
Annoyingly City & Guilds have changed the marking scheme to only be a pass or fail for this exam, instead of Pass/Merit/Distinction. But my tutor was still grading internally to the old criteria, and I got marked as Distinction quality work so I'm dead chuffed with myself.
Good work there, Nice and neat. Well done, you just need to keep up that standard now!
 
Nah just asking as one trainee to another

I’m studying in South Wales


You looking forward to level 3 ?

Can't wait, we're all but done with this year now so I'm looking forward to sinking my teeth into some new theory. Bit gash that there's not gonna be any practical/workshop sessions but the design and fault finding seems like it'll be good fun.
 
Can't wait, we're all but done with this year now so I'm looking forward to sinking my teeth into some new theory. Bit gash that there's not gonna be any practical/workshop sessions but the design and fault finding seems like it'll be good fun.


Yeah, I’m looking forward to the level 3 aswell
Are you going down the apprenticeship route or
Are you going the self funded route ?
 
Yeah, I’m looking forward to the level 3 aswell
Are you going down the apprenticeship route or
Are you going the self funded route ?

Once I've done my level 3 we'll see what potential employers have to say. The idea is to get employed as a Electrician's labourer/mate, then if they're willing to fund my AM2 provided I stay for X amount of years to recoup the cost, great. If not, I'll probably just end up funding it myself. Plus that way there's more incentive to work hard and get it done ASAP, considering it's somewhere in the region of £1250 a year :grimacing:
 
Is there no funding ?

Here in wales you can get your nvq funded if you can get an employer to take you on. Even on a part time basis!

It’s expensive but well worth it in the end ...


A lot of boys in my class already have full time work and those who don’t will get their ecs card
And go onsite via agency !

Have you had much experience?
 
Is there no funding ?

Here in wales you can get your nvq funded if you can get an employer to take you on. Even on a part time basis!

It’s expensive but well worth it in the end ...


A lot of boys in my class already have full time work and those who don’t will get their ecs card
And go onsite via agency !

Have you had much experience?

Honestly I haven't looked into it too much, that may well be a possibility! The issue is I work full time at an unrelated job and I literally can't afford to take the pay cut that I'd get as an apprentice - the bills won't pay for themselves unfortunately :( If I could, I'd definitely be doing that alongside college instead of what I currently do.

And not a lot of on-site experience at all, but my dad was a tradesman when I was a kid and I've been around this kind of stuff since I was young so I'm quite handy, and a quick learner
 
Just a question about changing Consumer Unit as they say that cutout fuse belongs to DNO so you should never try to interfer with it but honestly speaking all sparkys change CU as soon they pick up the job so am wondering how do they perform this if the CU does not have linked main switch?
 
Just a question about changing Consumer Unit as they say that cutout fuse belongs to DNO so you should never try to interfer with it but honestly speaking all sparkys change CU as soon they pick up the job so am wondering how do they perform this if the CU does not have linked main switch?

Officially you call the DNO and they'll either send someone out to pull it (and fit an isolator if paid) or if your DNO operates such a scheme whereby thry give you authority based on your CPS membership - Some will let NICEIC pull and reaseal, others don't.

The way I see it EAWR trumps any 'thou shall not pull DNO fuse', but I would still notify of my intent, now if thry want to upgrade all th service heads for those with integral isolation turn great but until thry do, we have little option
 
I realise this is an old thread, but for what it's worth, I thought I'd add my first board here as well. Tiny I know, but I did it start to finish, including a core hole through the back of the wall, without damaging any of the cables, and then feeding them all up and through the new hole. To be fair, given my very modest amount of experience in the industry, I was happy with the outcome, and my gaffer never pulled me up on anything. Open to any feedback / constructive criticism though!
signal-2024-05-24-145101_002.jpeg
 
Seems a neat job, why the two cables in the 6A RCBO?
Is the 20A a ring final?
Re the 6amp RCBO, I think this was because there were two lighting circuits in the property. Is that unusual? It was a very small property so it was deemed appropriate to plumb them both into one breaker

Re the 20amp, I honestly don't recall. Tbf I should have added a disclaimer in the OP that I was advised about which circuits should go into which RCBOs (obvs I have awareness of basic differences of what needs to go where, but when it comes to whether to combine circuits into one breaker or not, I still defer to advice from my seniors).
 
I take it the busbar gaurd was added post- photograph?;)


Penny washers on the screws… why?

The rear surface is usually pressed so the holes, and then the screwheads are below the flat surface of the back face of the board… reducing the risk of a cable getting pressed up against the countersunk edge is a screw head.
 
Penny washers on the screws… why?

The holes in Fusebox housings are a little large for the range of screws I typically use (no 8's) so I add washers to avoid the risk of the screw pulling through - but not penny washers, ones that sit into the recesses.
 
Re the 6amp RCBO, I think this was because there were two lighting circuits in the property. Is that unusual? It was a very small property so it was deemed appropriate to plumb them both into one breaker

Re the 20amp, I honestly don't recall. Tbf I should have added a disclaimer in the OP that I was advised about which circuits should go into which RCBOs (obvs I have awareness of basic differences of what needs to go where, but when it comes to whether to combine circuits into one breaker or not, I still defer to advice from my seniors).
I suspect the two lighting circuits have interconnected neutral conductors which would result in the RCBOs tripping if you split them. This was common on 70s properties on the stairs lighting and should be rectified as all the lighting is now on a single protective device so if you have a fault all the lighting is lost.
 
2 cables in the 1 RCBO is suspicious and suggest a borrowed neutral is being bodged around rather than actually being repaired. There's many possible reasons why, maybe to avoid damage to decor, maybe a temporary solution until the fault is found.

My only criticism is that there are no spare ways on the busbar, it looks like it has been cut down in length.
 

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