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Armeg Sheet Steel Hole Saws

Discuss Armeg Sheet Steel Hole Saws in the Electrical Tools and Products area at ElectriciansForums.net

The Armeg Acceler8 are very good. The lip on them also stops it shooting through the trunking etc. after drilling the hole. I have found them quite difficult to source though, so go for it.
 
just seen this thread-I have a set of the Armeg cutters, great because I use them in my impact driver, along with a 4-12mm step cutter for metal cutting (holes.) The 32mm wore out very quickly, but other than that they are very good. I actually like the ridge round the cutter as it stops over penetration. I get mine from ITS-I have a local outlet. The 4-12mm step cutter knocks 10mm hole through struts all day long. I am aiming to have a complete tool kit I can use in my impact driver, especially for metal munching (I do a lot of it.) Already got 17mm and 13mm impact sockets that fit inside struts and it's SO much quicker than loadsa drill bits, spanners, sockets etc. and you WON'T get them undone with a spanner when they're done up this way.
 
just seen this thread-I have a set of the Armeg cutters, great because I use them in my impact driver, along with a 4-12mm step cutter for metal cutting (holes.) The 32mm wore out very quickly, but other than that they are very good. I actually like the ridge round the cutter as it stops over penetration. I get mine from ITS-I have a local outlet. The 4-12mm step cutter knocks 10mm hole through struts all day long. I am aiming to have a complete tool kit I can use in my impact driver, especially for metal munching (I do a lot of it.) Already got 17mm and 13mm impact sockets that fit inside struts and it's SO much quicker than loadsa drill bits, spanners, sockets etc. and you WON'T get them undone with a spanner when they're done up this way.
yes you will get then undone with a spanner, wera joker spaners keep going when my impact driver cant tighten anymore
 
just seen this thread-I have a set of the Armeg cutters, great because I use them in my impact driver, along with a 4-12mm step cutter for metal cutting (holes.) The 32mm wore out very quickly, but other than that they are very good. I actually like the ridge round the cutter as it stops over penetration. I get mine from ITS-I have a local outlet. The 4-12mm step cutter knocks 10mm hole through struts all day long. I am aiming to have a complete tool kit I can use in my impact driver, especially for metal munching (I do a lot of it.) Already got 17mm and 13mm impact sockets that fit inside struts and it's SO much quicker than loadsa drill bits, spanners, sockets etc. and you WON'T get them undone with a spanner when they're done up this way.

Do you ever stop and think maybe you are over tightening things?
All fastenings have an optimum tightening torque, under that and the won't have tensioned properly, over that they begin to stress and weaken the fastening
 
Do you ever stop and think maybe you are over tightening things?
All fastenings have an optimum tightening torque, under that and the won't have tensioned properly, over that they begin to stress and weaken the fastening
defiantly true, on trunking you can see it bending when using 8mm bolts if you over tighten it.

on rawl bolts i would rather use a socket set after using impact driver if they use very long bolts
 
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I only use good quality strut (unistrut) which doesn't warp or twist when I tighten it, some of the cheap imitation stuff out there is not suitable for taking the very large panels we mount. A lot of our supplies are quite large cable sizes (50mm upto 240mm SWA) and you can't mount them on anything not fixed rigidly. The channel nuts of unistrut are the same, nearly twice as thick as others. I like to walk away knowing that everything is solid. So, yes, I do think about not over tightening but I am not doing that.
 
yes you will get then undone with a spanner, wera joker spaners keep going when my impact driver cant tighten anymore

I can't get spanners inside unistrut, unless I use a box spanner or one designed specifically for the job, but my impact wrench and socket fit perfectly. They are done to a similar torque as wheelnuts on a vehicle, which being a weakling I can't undo with a standard spanner, but can get undone with my impact wrench. The impact wrench is very handy for changing a puncture, by the way. I use locking washers on all my fixings too.
 
The impact driver/wrench is so much quicker than spanners and sockets, plus I only need it and some ancillary bits and sockets in a pouch and I'm in business, no socket sets or spanners to lug around.
 
defiantly true, on trunking you can see it bending when using 8mm bolts if you over tighten it.

on rawl bolts i would rather use a socket set after using impact driver if they use very long bolts

Apart from trays I never drop below 10mm bolts for panel mounting or unistrut work.
 
On the subject of fixings (hope I'm not off topic) I use fixings in concrete that just require a pilot hole, then are put in by the Impact Wrench, though I can't remember what they're called. They are quicker than the usual wedge anchors, though more costly, and don't require the carrying of any setting tool.
 
On the subject of fixings (hope I'm not off topic) I use fixings in concrete that just require a pilot hole, then are put in by the Impact Wrench, though I can't remember what they're called. They are quicker than the usual wedge anchors, though more costly, and don't require the carrying of any setting tool.
these?

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Thunderbolts them would be :)

I'd be very cautious of using any kind of impact equipment to fit these, the key part of its strength is 1 spiral thread and it creates its own groove, any damage to this cut groove can seriously impair the fixing strength of the bolt.
 
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Another vote for punches I carry a set from 16 to 50 mm cost me £60 had them for 7 years so I would argue they are cheaper than buying holesaws,
however they're only suitable for thin metal !
Re holesaws I use starrett with a quick change arbor I got from cef a few years ago.
 
Also Imo impact drivers have their place , but I find people use them on threads unsuitable for this method and if it's something which might need to be undone can be a problem .
 
The quick release arbor I use is an older version of this
"Morse fast adapt QR"
it has small attachments you fit on the holesaws and you just twist the base of the arbor to release take of one size to swap with another, takes literally a couple of seconds!

Also have attachments to allow two holesaws to be fitted to allow opening up of holes drilled ie 20 to 25 mm

Excellent bit of kit definitely recommend! had this set for 5 years, no issues and got me out of trouble once or twice
 

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