Hi All

Just wondering how you guys approach requests for downlight installs. Upto now I only attempt them if have access to floor boards above or the ceiling has been temporarily dropped so have easy wiring access. If ceiling is the more modern suspended type ceiling obviously not a problem to wire them. But how do you access this to the point you feel comfortable going ahead with it. Concern is take on a job that appears to be suspended and has ease of wiring start chopping away for downlight holes and then find there's either wooden supports or some sort of hindrance for the wiring
 
same old story when you need to put down light in and you cant access the floor boards up stairs
with out taking up carpets and removal of floor boards ,so you tell the customer start moving
the gear up stairs or work below and cop for the consequences . damage after . some customer think we like merlin ,did you see that flash all in now.
 
same old story when you need to put down light in and you cant access the floor boards up stairs
with out taking up carpets and removal of floor boards ,so you tell the customer start moving
the gear up stairs or work below and cop for the consequences . damage after . some customer think we like merlin ,did you see that flash all in now.
Very true Buzz lol alot of customers do seem to want us to magically make electricity appear in places where there's just no realistic possibility.
There is no easy answer , you literally have to check in advance to see what you are up against ...
I think so Dusty. Getting quite a few requests for these lately this one is in a ground floor flat so no option of access from above. I think I'm inclined to not even bother with them unless they can clarify downlights been installed in other areas of home/neighbours property or can ensure I've got some sort of decent inspection access to assess construction of ceiling.
 
If there is no access via the floor above, then I typically cut holes as needed in the ceiling.

Usually 100mm dia. holes, large enough to get a right-angle drill into the ceiling void. And save the plasterboard discs to replace afterwards (with small timber batten to secure). Then either very neat/careful filling of the gap round the disc, or the customer just has the whole ceiling skimmed.

If not being skimmed, I'll try to replace each disc in the hole it came from, lining up any artex pattern.

Obviously I explain this option, and the customer needs to be happy with it.
 
If there is no access via the floor above, then I typically cut holes as needed in the ceiling.

Usually 100mm dia. holes, large enough to get a right-angle drill into the ceiling void. And save the plasterboard discs to replace afterwards (with small timber batten to secure). Then either very neat/careful filling of the gap round the disc, or the customer just has the whole ceiling skimmed.

If not being skimmed, I'll try to replace each disc in the hole it came from, lining up any artex pattern.

Obviously I explain this option, and the customer needs to be happy with it.
Thanks SJ it's a good way to approach it if make customer aware there's possibility of quite a bit of patching. My other concern is possibility of drilling through a a cable that's been clipped to joists serving either the same flat or one above. Seems like you've managed to escape this fate so far
 
Thanks SJ it's a good way to approach it if make customer aware there's possibility of quite a bit of patching. My other concern is possibility of drilling through a a cable that's been clipped to joists serving either the same flat or one above. Seems like you've managed to escape this fate so far

If drilling into a joist where you can't see the other side, you really do have to think about where cables and pipes are likely to be. Especially pipes, like central heating.

Sometimes I will cut an extra access hole rather than risk drilling somewhere I think there will be pipes.

I'd also mention the cabling route between rows of downlights doesn't always have to be in the same room. Sometimes you can take the cables out e.g. into the landing above, if there is easier floor access, through several joists, then back into the room. Obviously this depends on the house construction.
 
Some great advice above ...

be very careful when drilling holes when you can’t see the reverse side

also yes you can wire one room via fishing cables from another , this often Stops the need for ripping up floorin unnecessary, and usually only uses an extra few metres of cable which is cheap as Chips
 
As above really, I'll almost always cut holes either side of the joist to make sure I don't find services with my drill bit. I also have a ferret inspection camera that has paid for itself many times over for this kind of thing.

A bit of imagination with cable routing goes a long way too.

As long as the customer is aware of the possible worst case scenario then all is good.

I'll patch the plasterboard but not fill afterwards, I leave that to a decorator or plasterer.

The only time I won't go near it is if it's a lath and plaster ceiling.
 
The ferret camera is a brilliant bit of kit, but if you don't have one, simply sticking your mobile phone up a downlighter hole will help to give you a view of how the joists run, and whether there are low height noggins etc in the way.
Also, if installing downlights downstairs, take a look at the upstairs rooms. Nobody wants their bedroom carpets and floors lifted, but many houses have built-in wardrobes. Lift the carpet or whatever in the wardrobe and see which way the floorboards run so you get an idea of which way the joists run. If it's chipboard, cut an access panel, if it's boards, cut a couple out, then look underneath to see the run of the joists and the "clear runs" between them. Then plan your downlight holes accordingly. Careful measurement will allow you to insert a thin screwdriver or somesuch from below, and if you can see it from above the job's a good one. Making good the floor in a wardrobe is not too difficult and much less hassle.
 
If drilling into a joist where you can't see the other side, you really do have to think about where cables and pipes are likely to be. Especially pipes, like central heating.

Sometimes I will cut an extra access hole rather than risk drilling somewhere I think there will be pipes.

I'd also mention the cabling route between rows of downlights doesn't always have to be in the same room. Sometimes you can take the cables out e.g. into the landing above, if there is easier floor access, through several joists, then back into the room. Obviously this depends on the house construction.
Thanks again SJ
 
Hi All

Just wondering how you guys approach requests for downlight installs. Upto now I only attempt them if have access to floor boards above or the ceiling has been temporarily dropped so have easy wiring access. If ceiling is the more modern suspended type ceiling obviously not a problem to wire them. But how do you access this to the point you feel comfortable going ahead with it. Concern is take on a job that appears to be suspended and has ease of wiring start chopping away for downlight holes and then find there's either wooden supports or some sort of hindrance for the wiring
Admittedly this answer is now more for current people searching for this area, but I hope this helps.

This is exactly what I do, other people can and will have different methods. This is not used when acess above is an open accessible loft etc. This is floors with rooms above and when all building elements are fully finished, details on required regs and suitable materials are not included here, this is how I treat my potential customers re downlight install pre quotes only.

There are a few basic steps and a load of precautions I take first, I make all these clear to the customer first before any further steps like choosing the lights take place (and waaay before quoting) and if there is any doubt from either party, I simply offer an hourly rate and walk if not suitable, hourly rate is the backup and last resort and it allows you safety from loss, I also explain this to the customer.

You must visit the property to assess before any of this can be done....

Basic steps and precautions:
1 it's either ceilings down or floors up, no other option, just a matter of damage limitation which you make them financially aware of (they will need to source and pay plasterers etc). Check they are ok with this.
2 mess, there will be managed but sustained mess throughout, are they ok with this?
3 asbestos, likely if the property is older than the eighties and possible for early nineties, discuss this, learn about this for yourself, usually lower amounts (if any) within newer property, I make them aware that it might be there... And discuss a solution that suits both sides and current law/safety.
4 original cables and pipes - massive hazard, this will need to be assessed EVERY cut, for ceilings, beams and floors:

Floor cutting - accurate depth set skilsaw to avoid hidden cables and pipes.
Ceiling cutting - jabsaw, holesaw dust cowl.
Beams - augur, flat bit etc

5 rare but possible, the unknown... There may be a deviation from and quote once we see what we are dealing with hidden within the floor void, and in very rare cases, damage to other systems, I advise that every possible effort will be made by myself to avoid this, but accidents can happen, and if you look carefully, legally, as long as you show due care, you are not responsible for subsequent damage (look this up, it is very important). Make them aware of ALL this, they still want downlights?....

6 locations are dictated to by beams, so there will have to be compromise on placement to some degree.

7 are they good to accept ALL items? Check this repeatedly while there assessing.

8 put it ALL in writing with quote.

Aaaaand that's it?

I totally use this method to do two things: firstly to ensure we're all clear on how complicated this can be for ALL involved and secondly to weed out those who saw it at their friends in their new kitchen/extension/house etc and thought it'd be a nice affordable upgrade....

Treat this kind of thing as a serious installation and don't go in cheap ever, it'll save you hassle in the long run.

Cheers???
 
slight tangent but.... we have prescribed zones in walls in line with accessories, right? so why not prescribed zones in ceilings in line with the downlights? then we could just chip out round the bottom of the joists, clip cable to underside of joists, fish over to next joist, and just minimal patching. have to admit to doing this a couple of times even though it's not strictly compliant. any thoughts?
 
I have never seen doing this as a particularly big issue even thou it goes against the spirit of the 50mm clearance for nails or screws.

Its similar to when you are in a real bind to opting to put a cable behind a skirting board, I don’t like it but can See why some sparks do it.

We don’t live in a perfect world where every job can be perfect and quite often customers don’t want all their ceilings and walls mashed up just to get an extra cable in...
 
slight tangent but.... we have prescribed zones in walls in line with accessories, right? so why not prescribed zones in ceilings in line with the downlights? then we could just chip out round the bottom of the joists, clip cable to underside of joists, fish over to next joist, and just minimal patching. have to admit to doing this a couple of times even though it's not strictly compliant. any thoughts?
Gotta be honest for me this is about as DIY as it gets and I'd never do it. Just dont think its professional. Not a criticism just a personal opinion.
My approach is as follows and as per post #17 all potential pitfalls are discussed with client at quote stage.
I cut traps about 200mm square with a jabsaw between joists (located by tapping ceiling!) and use a right angle drill to go through joists. Hand tools for cutting reduce the risk to cables and pipes in the void because with care you can 'feel' something before its too late.
Once wiring is complete a couple of bits of batten are passed up through the holes and fixed through the plasterboard, and then the same bit of plasterboard that was cut out is put back in its hole and fixed to the batten. If the client wants me to I will make good to a standard which will be almost invisible one painted, but this may require a return visit. I normally use multi finish which goes off quickly and then skim a fine layer of powder mix filler over. A day or so later come back and lightly rub down. Even on finely finished ceilings clients have always been surprised at the final result once they've re decorated. Pretty much invisible.
 
Radiohead , in a perfect world yours would be the best practice.

But loads of houses I seem to get called to have artex / stippled or lath and plaster ceilings. Cutting big hatches and trying to patch plaster the following day takes ages and customers often very reluctant to pay for the extra time.

A little notch under each joist to clip a bit of 1mm to the underside creates far less distruction and can be back filled with poly filler and repainted that same afternoon
 
slight tangent but.... we have prescribed zones in walls in line with accessories, right? so why not prescribed zones in ceilings in line with the downlights? then we could just chip out round the bottom of the joists, clip cable to underside of joists, fish over to next joist, and just minimal patching. have to admit to doing this a couple of times even though it's not strictly compliant. any thoughts?
I've been meaning to buy a roll of BS 8436 cable for such occasions. Can do this and remain compliant.
 
which brings me back to my post... why not nominate in line with lights as safe zones similar to walls? the method would then comply.

cost being a factor, it's way less expensive than cutting and repairing huge holes, and eliminates the risk of drilling blind through joists, trying to miss any cables etc.that can't be seen.

apart from which, it's farless likely to be screwed or nailed than a cable in a wall.not many customers want to hang pictures or fit shelves on a ceiling.
 
I just cut a 100mm strip up centre of the room, and the odd cut for noggins, use screwdriver to poke 35mm eitherside of centre of spot.
Patch, then they get there own plaster.

Keep any holes u cut away from spotlight positions.. Finished the same day
 
As above really, I'll almost always cut holes either side of the joist to make sure I don't find services with my drill bit. I also have a ferret inspection camera that has paid for itself many times over for this kind of thing.

A bit of imagination with cable routing goes a long way too.

As long as the customer is aware of the possible worst case scenario then all is good.

I'll patch the plasterboard but not fill afterwards, I leave that to a decorator or plasterer.

The only time I won't go near it is if it's a lath and plaster ceiling.
Yh can be messy and dusty
 
slight tangent but.... we have prescribed zones in walls in line with accessories, right? so why not prescribed zones in ceilings in line with the downlights? then we could just chip out round the bottom of the joists, clip cable to underside of joists, fish over to next joist, and just minimal patching. have to admit to doing this a couple of times even though it's not strictly compliant. any thoughts?
When working there are more than Electrical regulations to consider. Now you are into a very separate set of operational parameters, building regulations, regulations for beams mean they have very strict allowances for width, depth and location of 'chipping out' or drilling holes, hence why it must not be done unless within said allowances (don't take my word for it look up the specifics), same as location of holes size and proximity etc. A structural beam providing support over an unsupported span is vulnerable to alterations outside of 'safe' zones causing weakness in relation to the location, loads, span and size of beam. This is why I personally never 'chip' out of the top or base of a beam, and instead factor it into the pricing and time, in my opinion it's not acceptable where one should be pricing to cover completing within full regulations. As I said earlier, my point 5 rare but possible, the unknown... The trick is to learn your materials/building fabrics and how long it takes you to achieve what your customer wants-remember to walk away, if you aren't able to do it in the budget they have them don't. Just how I work ??
 
When working there are more than Electrical regulations to consider. Now you are into a very separate set of operational parameters, building regulations, regulations for beams mean they have very strict allowances for width, depth and location of 'chipping out' or drilling holes, hence why it must not be done unless within said allowances (don't take my word for it look up the specifics), same as location of holes size and proximity etc. A structural beam providing support over an unsupported span is vulnerable to alterations outside of 'safe' zones causing weakness in relation to the location, loads, span and size of beam. This is why I personally never 'chip' out of the top or base of a beam, and instead factor it into the pricing and time, in my opinion it's not acceptable where one should be pricing to cover completing within full regulations. As I said earlier, my point 5 rare but possible, the unknown... The trick is to learn your materials/building fabrics and how long it takes you to achieve what your customer wants-remember to walk away, if you aren't able to do it in the budget they have them don't. Just how I work ??
my suggested method does not cut into the joists at all. just into the ceiling board. then cable/s clipped to the bottom of the joist/s.
 
When working there are more than Electrical regulations to consider. Now you are into a very separate set of operational parameters, building regulations, regulations for beams mean they have very strict allowances for width, depth and location of 'chipping out' or drilling holes, hence why it must not be done unless within said allowances (don't take my word for it look up the specifics), same as location of holes size and proximity etc. A structural beam providing support over an unsupported span is vulnerable to alterations outside of 'safe' zones causing weakness in relation to the location, loads, span and size of beam. This is why I personally never 'chip' out of the top or base of a beam, and instead factor it into the pricing and time, in my opinion it's not acceptable where one should be pricing to cover completing within full regulations. As I said earlier, my point 5 rare but possible, the unknown... The trick is to learn your materials/building fabrics and how long it takes you to achieve what your customer wants-remember to walk away, if you aren't able to do it in the budget they have them don't. Just how I work ??

Yes, obviously these things would still be born in mind, same as with any job.
 
problem is with new build it;s not a case of make the structure as sound as possible, but what's the cheapest way to make it stay up till after the 10 year guarantee has expired. my mate done a new build last year. all the joists were 11" x 3", a bit over engineered, but at least we could drill all the holes without the building collapsing.
 
you can also use earthed metal capping
I have a feeling this might not quite comply with 522.6.204. Which is a pity, as it would save a major headache on a job I have this coming week. A socket needs moving sideways a couple of feet on a stud wall. I'm expecting the cables to come up from the floor, the floor being finished oak there's no way I can lift it. Moving the socket will leave the cable out of the permitted zones for sure.
 
I have a feeling this might not quite comply with 522.6.204. Which is a pity, as it would save a major headache on a job I have this coming week. A socket needs moving sideways a couple of feet on a stud wall. I'm expecting the cables to come up from the floor, the floor being finished oak there's no way I can lift it. Moving the socket will leave the cable out of the permitted zones for sure.
522.6.204 note (iv) allows for providing of mechanical protection sufficient to prevent penetration by nails etc. Although not mentioned in BS7671, a steel plate at least 3mm in thickness is deemed suitable.
 
I have a feeling this might not quite comply with 522.6.204. Which is a pity, as it would save a major headache on a job I have this coming week. A socket needs moving sideways a couple of feet on a stud wall. I'm expecting the cables to come up from the floor, the floor being finished oak there's no way I can lift it. Moving the socket will leave the cable out of the permitted zones for sure.
Could you just link the two boxes with some steel conduit, or are they wanting the original box disappeared?
 

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Approach for downlight install requests
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