D
Deleted member 26818
No, normal T&E is fine.
L
lukeysim
1.5mm2 is fine
This is puzzling me. According to my EAL domestic installer course and other sources, cables in batten holders should be protected with heat-resistant sleeving. I also notice that many batten holders come with heat resistant tails pre-wired. Yet I have not found any electrical wholesalers who supply heat resistant sleeving, even those who sell batten holders without tails. Sleeving is available on the web but from suppliers from the auto industry and computer industry. Does this suggest such sleeving is not commonly used in electrical installations? If so what is the alternative? A short length of heat resistant flex connected to the circuit wiring with a lighting junction box? Surely the heat from the lamp would be too much for PVC T&E?
Not if the lamps are all Low energy as they should be nowadays.
G
Geordie Spark
Oh !! ........... Good save !!! :clap:
M
MDJ
so is 1mm2 as well :earmuffs:
G
Geordie Spark
........... and it's finer than both 1mm and 1.5mm.
Wow, thanks for all the fast replies! So I take it with LEDs and CFLs (leaving aside the wiping in the dark problems mentioned!), no heat resistant sleeving is required. But is it safe to assume the user won't ever change these for incandescents? The ban widely reported doesn't seem to be in place in reality.
No probs.
Please feel free to use either the Thanks button <<<<, or the Like button >>>>, or both.
Thanks very much for the link. I'm guessing if it turns out I do need it, brown and blue (for the new circuits I have planned), though I may also need red and black if fitting to existing wiring. Presumably a short length of grey in a larger diameter is also needed for protecting the sheathing as it enters the fitting as well?
Reckon I'll leave ordering for now (fed up with deliveries arriving when I'm out and being left in the rain etc) and just try to stick to low energy bulbs in batten holders.
G
Geordie Spark
Well I stocked-up on incandescents before the ban came into force and have enough to last me the rest of my life. I take no notice of Part P or the related scams either !!
S
shocking_eg
the connection within a batten holder never get that hot !
the case gets slightly warm if anything and that's with a 100w lamp which are now discontinued
the case gets slightly warm if anything and that's with a 100w lamp which are now discontinued
M
MDJ
yes and lets not forget the 70 degrees regarding the PVC either, I have never used heat resisting sleaving in the 1000 plus batten holders I have installed over the years.
D
Deleted member 26818
My mum used to have the habit of fitting 150W lamps in some of her fittings.
Every few years I would cut back the 2core cable and fit a new lamp holder.
I actually found that pendant fittings sold by Woolworths seemed to be the cheapest and best constructed.
Every few years I would cut back the 2core cable and fit a new lamp holder.
I actually found that pendant fittings sold by Woolworths seemed to be the cheapest and best constructed.
F
Fin170
It's not like 100w lamps are hard to find, nor are 150w ones if you really want to spite 'dem damn 'uropeans' to quote a lady that was upset when I told her I couldn't put her storage heater back next to the bath.
I can't wait to see the back of them, seen enough heat damaged fittings, wiring and building fabric to conclude they're crap. Decent CFLs (i.e. not tesco homebrand) and LEDs all the way
On that note I wonder when the CFL subsidies will end or at least transfer to LEDs, not herd anything about it in a while
I can't wait to see the back of them, seen enough heat damaged fittings, wiring and building fabric to conclude they're crap. Decent CFLs (i.e. not tesco homebrand) and LEDs all the way
On that note I wonder when the CFL subsidies will end or at least transfer to LEDs, not herd anything about it in a while
I recon that CFLs will be rapidly superseded by LED. Once they're cheap enough, the advantages of LED will make CFL redundant. Even lower power consumption, instant light, better quality of light, available in small physical sizes, longer lasting lamp (if you don't buy the cheapest rubbish).
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I recon that CFLs will be rapidly superseded by LED. Once they're cheap enough, the advantages of LED will make CFL redundant. Even lower power consumption, instant light, better quality of light, available in small physical sizes, longer lasting lamp (if you don't buy the cheapest rubbish).
G
Geordie Spark
100w lamps are still available. :wink_smile:
Great. Seems to be a strong consensus that there is only a problem if high powered incandescents are fitted. I will probably still do the loop-in wiring in a junction box above the ceiling and only take the cable supplying the batten holder itself into the batten holder to avoid risking damage to the whole circuit. Thanks all.
E
Engineer54
Well when you consider the batten holder has been the staple accessory for kitchens, bathrooms, toilets and just about everywhere else a pendant wasn't suitable, for around 60+ years!!!
No need for a junction box either, the worst culprit for heat damaging connecting cables, has disappeared now and 100w lamps are going to be few and far between...
O
oldtimer
Never had much problems with these but the newer ones are constructed like a ceiling rose where the old ones had bare terminals at the back plus on the subject of CFL lamps do the work no because the 11watt is meant to equal 60watt but the 11watt is about 50watts thats why people don't like them so how do you get around this easy size up ie take a 60watt out and put a 14watt in works all the time
M
MDJ
Oh No please don't do that, unless access is easily and redily available, please don't consider that again, I won't sleep tonight now, quite frankely I'm appalled just thinking about this, why would you even ever consider this action?????????????????????????????????????????
I wouldn't do that. I would have thought that you would take the T&E into the batten holder and just individually sleeve the cores with heat resistant sleeving. I wouldn't worry about the sheath as there should be very little of it within the batten holder. The sleeving in HandySparks post looks just right for that.
Having said that though, I wouldn't bother and just take the T&E into the batten holder un-sleeved. That's what I do. I just asked the question originally because I heard it somewhere, just like you did, and wanted to check what others do.
Finish this with a quick vote yes for heatproof sleeving and a no for nothing I'll start with a
NO
and if any yes's come back all I will say is ..............................liar
NO
and if any yes's come back all I will say is ..............................liar
I agree. I think it's supposed to be something to do with the quality of the light that makes them appear dimmer than they are supposed to be. I think some of the manufacturers have realised this and are saying that for example a 20W CFL is equal to an 85W incandescent, if such a thing ever existed. I find they vary quite a lot in terms of the time taken to brighten up too.
On the subject of the junction boxes, I was imagining using a lighting junction box, rather like those used for ELV downlighters (you can get them for 230V as well), which could be withdrawn through the hole made for the cable entering the batten holder. Thinking again about this, I'm not sure if it would be possible to make a big enough hole and then cover this with the batten holder.
O
oldtimer
In the tenament houses with the high ceiling a 20 watt is the minimum I would put in the light use 14 watts for halls or bathrooms and 11 watts for an outside light or bedside light but never a main light as I go into properties with an 11 watt fitted and its so dim as it is at the end of its life so I always advise to tenants and customers that when the see the cfl going black around the edges then change it .
But also with energy bills soaring people are using smaller lamps to save some money
But also with energy bills soaring people are using smaller lamps to save some money
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