T
Toneyz
As long as all are on the same circuit and you haven't got the neutrals interconnected between two lighting circuits.
- Thread starter stringsonfire
- Start date
If you get somebody to just swap that double pole switch for a 2 gang switch, putting one pole on each switch, you should end up with a switch for the lights (which can be left on) and a switch for the fan. (This is assuming 1 pole is the lights and the other is the fan, but would be a good place to start)
Some more information here.
https://i.Upload the image directly to the thread.com/ay0nUhI.jpg
https://i.Upload the image directly to the thread.com/jw9EG0e.jpg
Isolator:
https://i.Upload the image directly to the thread.com/6W2HTOz.jpg
https://i.Upload the image directly to the thread.com/aiiG61C.jpg
https://i.Upload the image directly to the thread.com/2M1sM83.jpg
Wanted to add this to the first post to keep all the info in one place, but seems I can't edit the post, so sorry it's a bit everywhere now.
So this seems even more complicated than I thought. Am I not better off just removing live cables from the Bathroom Switch until the lights won't turn on, then putting them in a separate switch, and leaving the fan wiring as is?
- This wiring is original. The flat was built by Taylor Wimpy in 2013.
- The fan appears to be a CMEV.4E. Apparently, it's three speed, house-wide extractor designed to be always on, on a near silent low setting, with the medium and high speeds designed to be manually switched. Product information, including wiring diagrams, are here.
- I can't confirm if it is always on - either it's too quiet for me to tell, or it's not. As it only extracts from the bathroom and kitchen, I'm not sure it needs to be.
https://i.Upload the image directly to the thread.com/ay0nUhI.jpg
https://i.Upload the image directly to the thread.com/jw9EG0e.jpg
Isolator:
https://i.Upload the image directly to the thread.com/6W2HTOz.jpg
https://i.Upload the image directly to the thread.com/aiiG61C.jpg
https://i.Upload the image directly to the thread.com/2M1sM83.jpg
Wanted to add this to the first post to keep all the info in one place, but seems I can't edit the post, so sorry it's a bit everywhere now.
So this seems even more complicated than I thought. Am I not better off just removing live cables from the Bathroom Switch until the lights won't turn on, then putting them in a separate switch, and leaving the fan wiring as is?
To answer your last question... no. Random removal of conductors is never a good plan.
Can you not isolate it fully, and work out the wiring by appropriate dead testing? Draw a diagram and then work out what needs to change at the bathroom end to achieve the desired result.
Can you not isolate it fully, and work out the wiring by appropriate dead testing? Draw a diagram and then work out what needs to change at the bathroom end to achieve the desired result.
T
Toneyz
Nice hole at the back of the fast fix box.
T
Toneyz
The gray needs to be made safe at both ends as not needed.
Fan isolator needs to be changed to a switched fused spur fused to 3A.
Is the bathroom and kitchen lights on the same circuit as the fan?
Fan isolator needs to be changed to a switched fused spur fused to 3A.
Is the bathroom and kitchen lights on the same circuit as the fan?
Needs to be that big to get all the wires in
T
Toneyz
The gray needs to be made safe at both ends as not needed.
Fan isolator needs to be changed to a switched fused spur fused to 3A.
Is the bathroom and kitchen lights on the same circuit as the fan?
Fan isolator needs to be changed to a switched fused spur fused to 3A.
Is the bathroom and kitchen lights on the same circuit as the fan?
The knock out at the top of Appleby fast fix boxes is big enough to get more cables than is there.
So the supply is looped at the fan isolator and the bathroom switch, perhaps. Each switch that operates the fan is paralleled with three core cable (but the grey is used for neutral at the bathroom switch but only seems to go (possibly) to a connector block at the isolator).
I think the three core must have been the original plan but things changed (not for the better). I hope there is not a brown wire in the middle top terminal of the fan isolator. The fan isolator does not isolate the switched line but does isolate the permanent line and neutral, probably.
The fan is only switched from trickle to max boost.
9dB would be very hard to hear on trickle.
The fan switch could be separated out assuming my guesses are correct.
A somewhat confusing arrangement of wiring for a simple system, but perhaps logical when you are on site. Certainly not ideal; no need for a 3A fuse if fed from 6A lighting.
Bit of a guess at the wiring even though I cannot see all the connections in the TP isolator.
I think the three core must have been the original plan but things changed (not for the better). I hope there is not a brown wire in the middle top terminal of the fan isolator. The fan isolator does not isolate the switched line but does isolate the permanent line and neutral, probably.
The fan is only switched from trickle to max boost.
9dB would be very hard to hear on trickle.
The fan switch could be separated out assuming my guesses are correct.
A somewhat confusing arrangement of wiring for a simple system, but perhaps logical when you are on site. Certainly not ideal; no need for a 3A fuse if fed from 6A lighting.
Bit of a guess at the wiring even though I cannot see all the connections in the TP isolator.
Is there a reason why there is 2 cpc's in the same piece of sleeving and why there is so much copper on show? That wiring needs shortening also.
Probably because the Taylor Wimpy electricians were rushing to get the job done.
You said you did it.
Oh I see. No, see the photo in the first post. I just took one pole out and put wagos on it to see if that pole was the fan boost or not
Bad swordsmanship you mean Mate.Don't sound so disappointing SC, for agreeing with me I aren't that bad am I?
I tink u mint bud speeling!
You've been on the spelling patrol so thought I'd get some payback
I tink u mint bud speeling!
You've been on the spelling patrol so thought I'd get some payback
Not a problem Mate, no spelling mistake though was there just the wrong word used, I'll be watching you from now on, so be ware and be careful, OKI tink u mint bud speeling!
You've been on the spelling patrol so thought I'd get some payback
And above all live long and prosper.
Replacing the DP switch with a 2 gang 2 way switch is likely to be OK, but from afar we cannot tell if there may be other problems this may cause in the wiring. It does seem as if the live supply for the fan is not fed from either of the switches, but possibly from the fan isolator.
However to be able to categorically state it would be OK would not be possible at forum level.
Fair enough. Will try it then
Sorted! Thanks all
https://Upload the image directly to the thread.com/W5bZFGs.jpg
https://Upload the image directly to the thread.com/W5bZFGs.jpg
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