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Darkwood

Right ... Just been nudged to set this up by Paul.M and sounds a good idea following recent threads I've done in the Arms..

Rules....No Offensive material... edit if required before posting as this is the public arena.
Anything to do with the trade or in and around it ...H&S pic's welcome.

Beware plumbers!!!.jpg

I've posted this a few times and this is at a mates house following a kitchen refirb several yrs ago. :omg_smile:

Beware plumbers!!!.jpg
 
I know Quickwire are relative newcomers, and there are quite a few other easy-style connectors out there, but I do think Quickwire will be the new "Wago" for lighting. I also know that many think the cost is quite high, but the time-savings are considerable.
I love new technology like this. Same as I embraced Quinetic many years ago, when the time savings and lack of raggling(chasing) plastering and painting made it a new solution for many cases.
Wireless smoke alarms with radio modules to interlink, and a 10 year life shows the same type of savings...no wiring, chasing, redecoration...might seem expensive, but compared with the alternative, money well spent.
No race to the bottom, guys and girls...spec the good, clever modern stuff...do the job fast and well, no call-backs...and happy clients.
Just my random ramblings...but remember when we had no LED head-torches or cordless drills etc? Now we wouldn't work without them.
The cheapskate boys will always get work, but the quality electricians will always get quality work, and that is what matters in the long term.

I'd place quickwire in a different category to wireless interlinks. While both offer time saving solutions, at a price, there's no prospect of wireless failure with their connectors.

Wireless switching and smoke detector interconnection is something I'd only consider when adding to an existing installation, where it saves considerable time and upheaval, and there's no question that this may often be the better option for customers. For new installations I'm firmly of the opinion that everthing should be hardwired.

I'm not sure about the t connectors but I thought that too about the switch and load. If you look there's little holes in the sides I believe you can get a probe in there. I'll try it later but would be pretty sure thats what it's for.

That thought struck me last night, but I didn't have one to hand. Looking at images online I could only see holes on either side, so wonder if that's what they really are and, if so, where CPC can be accessed.

Edit: seems I should have looked elsewhere as this was answered in Quickwire's FAQ section, back in 2017. All of their junctions have test points.

 
I'd place quickwire in a different category to wireless interlinks. While both offer time saving solutions, at a price, there's no prospect of wireless failure with their connectors.

Wireless switching and smoke detector interconnection is something I'd only consider when adding to an existing installation, where it saves considerable time and upheaval, and there's no question that this may often be the better option for customers. For new installations I'm firmly of the opinion that everthing should be hardwired.



That thought struck me last night, but I didn't have one to hand. Looking at images online I could only see holes on either side, so wonder if that's what they really are and, if so, where CPC can be accessed.

Edit: seems I should have looked elsewhere as this was answered in Quickwire's FAQ section, back in 2017. All of their junctions have test points.

Here's a picture if it helps
PXL_20220916_170637314.jpg
 
Or even vertically by the side of the RWP and horizontally under the widow, there may not be enough cable, but nothing a nice neat 45deg angle under the window would not cure and look much neater.
 
A few pictures from my phone of past jobs

Just for clarity, the 3 brown 16mm singles taped up coming out of the trunking are fed from the crappy distributuion board pictured,supplied from on the top right Triple pole breaker, 63A, three phase 400V 😱, trunking was not earthed, went to another moody three phase board the other side of the warehouse about 40 meters away, pretty much taped up their entire length, must have took most of the day taping them all together, they were joined with 30A connector blocks about 4 times throughout the run
 

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A few pictures from my phone of past jobs

Just for clarity, the 3 brown 16mm singles taped up coming out of the trunking are fed from the crappy distributuion board pictured,supplied from on the top right Triple pole breaker, 63A, three phase 400V 😱, trunking was not earthed, went to another moody three phase board the other side of the warehouse about 40 meters away, pretty much taped up their entire length, must have took most of the day taping them all together, they were joined with 30A connector blocks about 4 times throughout the run
Did you get the ‘it works ok 🤷🏼‍♂️’ response when you pointed it out? 😂
 
I wish I hadn’t taken the cover off now….

New customer. Lighting fault, breaker would reset, 4 or 5 times… then wouldn’t reset at all, and tripped with a crack.
Boiler is also off this lighting circuit so I’ve ran a temp supply for that just now.

Reading 5Mohms and rising on L-E and N-E.
Suspect circuit is second from left and disconnected for now.

Other issues with board include inner cores of flex on left most breaker supplying bell transformer (no bell) into exposed connector block. Took that out straight away.

There’s so much excess copper on show.. and no idea with the black going into a breaker.
Neutrals don’t correspond with lines and this was supposedly rewired in 2002.

D231B65A-E6E2-4F5E-A31B-F472CC81C0C8.jpeg



I’ll get all the faults sorted, then get some rcbo’s for it.
 
This might confuse a DIYer...either the label is on upside down, or the cables are reversed on the tray...
It works though, now!
I apologise for the state of the ferrules, they were re-done once I had the unit running.
 
This might confuse a DIYer...either the label is on upside down, or the cables are reversed on the tray...
It works though, now!
I apologise for the state of the ferrules, they were re-done once I had the unit running.

I've seen this with cheap lights bought from Amazon, one of which stated on its product page that blue was line and brown was neutral. That one was handed to the guy that bought it, with clear instructions about what he could do with it.
 
Indeed, @nicebutdim
I had an accessory recently where the wiring instructions were written step-by-step, and there were illustrations too...problem was that they conflicted. OK for me to sort out what was what, but anyone following the diagram would end up with a blown timeclock. I contacted the manufacturers, they thanked me for being in touch, and said they would review things...
Aye, right...as we say in Scotland.
 
Installing some outside sockets today and notice that their EV charge point was fed with ordinary SWA. It piqued my curiosity as I also do EV charge points and know they have to have active load management. Along with OCPD & RCD protection, though some are now starting to come with both 6mA DC & 30mA protection built in. The charge point installed has neither OCPD or 30mA protection built in. Just 6mA DC.

As there was no seperate cable for the CT clamp and they weren’t using EV ultra/Hyper Connect I quizzed the owner on where the supply for the charge point was.

Now there are a number of plethora of ‘issues’ here.

But I have circled the supply to the EV charge point. The main cutout rating is also only 60A.

Funny enough they didn’t have a certificate for it and I’m betting the DNO haven’t been informed.

Customer tried to get hold of installer whilst I was there but the no. was switched off. So I’ve left him with all the details of how it should be done. So he can quiz the installer. He asked if I could rectify it all which I said of course. But he should approach the installer first as they should rectify it FoC.

E5AF48D0-938D-439D-A3DE-69F1A0DA27E0.jpeg
 

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