Grid switches for kitchen appliances

[TJC1]

Evening all

Just pricing a new build and they want a 4gang grid for the kitchen appliances. Am I correct in saying that if the switches are kept on the ring main and if I spur off each switch for an appliance and use an unswitched fuse spur unit behind each appliance that would be ok?

It’s the same as spuring off 4 separate sockets I guess?

 

[buzzlightyear]

no ,the grid switches to each appliances socket .each appliance will be fuse down to the rating of the appliance .

 

[Strima]

I wouldn't bother fusing down as the appliance will also be fused. Unless there's risk of someone plugging in a three bar heater there's no chance of overload on the individual circuits.

These grid switches can get a little busy, what I have done in the past is tap off the RFC using 4mm T&E to feed the switches.

 

[bigspark17]

Why would you put socket behind the appliance? Put it in the adjacent cupboard for access!
Yes grid switch ring in to grid spurs out fine. Youll only get 3x double isolator inserts into a 2g faceplate with click

 

[Deleted account]

I wouldn't bother fusing down as the appliance will also be fused. Unless there's risk of someone plugging in a three bar heater there's no chance of overload on the individual circuits.

These grid switches can get a little busy, what I have done in the past is tap off the RFC using 4mm T&E to feed the switches.

Do you mean still use 2.5mm on the ring but inside the grid switch use 4mm to link between switches or 4mm for the whole ring?
do you still use 2.5mm to feed the appliances from the grid switch or 4mm?

 

[Strima]

2.5 for the ring then tap off using 4.0.

 

[Chivers]

4mm Surely this will make the Grid busier by having thicker conductors, am I missing something obvious? I normally just use 2.5 bent into size to "pre-wire" it before putting the grid into position.?