Discuss Hard wired internet in house to replace wifi in the Computer and Networking Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Please can someone give me some pointers. In my house atm Im using wifi. For a project while on corona lockdown I want to hardwire connection points in most of the rooms and get rid of the wifi. Ive never installed such a setup and Ive got a few questions.

Whats the best cable to use, thinking it will be cat6 or cat7, i want to future proof as well so an option for TV, or hdmi or whatever it is this month.
Do I run a separate cable from the (hub??) to each room, or is it more like a radial (daisy chain) from one room to the next.
Right now im using a BT Hub5, can I get a modem instead that would be quicker.
Do I need something like a splitter box to put all the outgoing cat cables into ?
Anyone have a link to a UK youtube vid outlining what I need.

As you can likely see I dont have any much experience in this sort of stuff. Sure ive pulled in cat cables but never really got "into it. Ideally I want to run one single cable from where the incoming telephone line is to the CU cuboard under the stairs, and set up the gubbings of the operation from there. Right now ive got the wireless reuter next to the phone loads of cables all over the place.

Thanks for any help.
 
Cat 5e should be fine for what you are doing, it will cope with 1Gbit connections.

You will need to run a single cable to each outlet, terminate them all in a box under the stairs. I will post a link to some suitable parts in a bit.

Remember, you may well need multiple sockets in some rooms.
I.e lounge tv point may well want between 4 and 8 outlets, all with separate cables.
1 tv
2 sky box
3 dvd player
4 games console
5 router uplink
6 laptop cable or wifi device

Home office will easily use another 4
Printer
Pc
Phone
Laptop
Wifi

Don’t forget things like cables to the loft for cctv etc.

You will need a mains socket near to the distribution point to power a network switch (device to connect all network points to)
Consider a switch that has poe (power over Ethernet)
This allows you to power devices like cameras and wifi access points without having to find a mains socket nearby.

Add up the amount of sockets you need and get a switch with 30% more ports than than you think you need.
[automerge]1586240191[/automerge]
https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/philex-2u-19-utp-cat-5e-48-port-patch-panel/60604

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/philex-1u-19-utp-cat-6-24-port-patch-panel/80174

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/lan-installation-tool-kit/66910

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/wall-data-cabinet-9u/42267
 
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Thanks for reply James thats good info to go on; thats alot of points to install. Ive been looking at patch panels and cant work out the differences between a patch panel like the one in your link above, and an ethernet network switch like the one below

View: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0007SQEPK/ref=psdc_430573031_t2_B005123P1S?th=1


If I have one internet provider, would i be better off using this instead of a patch panel ? Or do they do the same thing ? Cheers mate
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I read somewhere that I should plug in the router to master socket only, and not use an extension. This is not ideal as i was gonna run an extension, from the master socket below the window in living room, the the CU cupboard and plug in there. Is there any way around this you know of ??
 
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You need both, a patch panel will turn all the loose cable ends into rj45 sockets, then you use short network patch cables to connect these to the ports on the switch.
 
It is possible to put Rj45 plugs on the ends of all the cables and then plug them directly into a switch.
It is more difficult than you imagine to terminate the plugs correctly
I have seen people when they are making there first 50 attempts, to have a success ratio of 1 in 10 or worse!
 
Don't forget to leave a nice big 'service loop' at the cabinet end... so that you can easily get at things.

The purpose of the 'patch panel' is simply to allow you to connect anything to anything... if you're certain that your setup now is exactly what you want and it'll never change in the future... by all means leave it out, but it's normal to use one.

If you can... depending on where things are etc., you might want to consider breaking out the pair for the router at the BT Master socket (google it)...
 
It is possible to put Rj45 plugs on the ends of all the cables and then plug them directly into a switch.
It is more difficult than you imagine to terminate the plugs correctly
I have seen people when they are making there first 50 attempts, to have a success ratio of 1 in 10 or worse!

Okay, so as you can see I dont have the foggiest about this. I gotta ask, why is it difficult to terminate rj45 plugs onto cat6 ?, and what makes it easier by connecting the cables into patch panel ? Do the patch panel outlets use different connectors ? Thanks for being patient theres so much stuff outthere
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Don't forget to leave a nice big 'service loop' at the cabinet end... so that you can easily get at things.

The purpose of the 'patch panel' is simply to allow you to connect anything to anything... if you're certain that your setup now is exactly what you want and it'll never change in the future... by all means leave it out, but it's normal to use one.

If you can... depending on where things are etc., you might want to consider breaking out the pair for the router at the BT Master socket (google it)...

Yep ive been googling about this, I have a vdsl supply and wanted to extend the dsl cable (just buy a longer cable) that connects the master socket to the router, so i can put the router in the cupboard under the stairs. But this is not advised as i may lose speed, is that right ?
 
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Yep ive been googling about this, I have a vdsl supply and wanted to extend the dsl cable (just buy a longer cable) that connects the master socket to the router, so i can put the router in the cupboard under the stairs. But this is not advised as i may lose speed, is that right ?
The cable that goes from your wall outlet (could be master or extension slave, it doesn't matter) can be connected directly into the back of the master socket... thus avoiding the ugly dangly filter that is usually used. But you wouldn't use that cable, and you need to know which pair are needed and you need to fit a new master. But this way... takes the signal from the closest point possible and avoids any issues with crappy cables/cheap filters/slave sockets wiring etc etc.
 
The cable that goes from your wall outlet (could be master or extension slave, it doesn't matter) can be connected directly into the back of the master socket... thus avoiding the ugly dangly filter that is usually used. But you wouldn't use that cable, and you need to know which pair are needed and you need to fit a new master. But this way... takes the signal from the closest point possible and avoids any issues with crappy cables/cheap filters/slave sockets wiring etc etc.

Er, do you mean i can wire directly from the back of the master socket to another point and so not need to plugin a dsl cable ? The supply into my house is only using two cores (one pair) of a telephone cable, so this is the only pair I need to extend the master socket ?
 
Is your wifi very weak? Is that why you want to hard-wire?
No the wifi isn't weak pirate, just wanted a change. Thinking about all those waves aboot the house for years (I never switch the thing off), maybe it might help with my receding hairline ?
[automerge]1586278692[/automerge]

That might help...
Thanks pal that's great, there's so many youtube vids out there makes me dizzy finding right ones. But I sure know more about how the web goes together than I did last night?
 

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