Discuss Washing machine intermittently trips RCD. Manufacturer declares machine fault-free and suggests faulty home electrics. What should I do? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Never said that Mate did I? you're clutching at straws now aren't you? You have noticed the phrase get an EiCR done and jumped to the wrong conclusion, without taking much/any notice as to why I suggested an EICR, need to take what I said in the context of why i said it.
Disagree by all means, but your default position I have noticed over the years is 'get an EICR'....Where I take issue is the notion that an EICR will identify all problems, which seems to be your inference. You need to have a look at the guidance on carrying out EICR's which requires them to be carried out with minimal dismantling, this is because dismantling for inspection is time consuming (cost burden),damaging to surface finishes (unacceptable) and potentially introduces faults that were not there before. Except on very small installations 100% sampling is neither recommended or practical. Bear in mind that 50% sampling (and even that is beyond what is recommended) means 50% of points will not be subject to full inspection by removal, and hence could hide loose connections/local thermal damage. In fact 20% sampling is more realistic which means 80% will not be fully inspected!
And you invariably suggest to the punters on here that an EICR is their golden ticket to perfection.
I ask again. Have you ever actually carried out a full EICR?
The limitations of what an EICR at acceptable cost can identify need to be made much clearer to the paying public.
 
Break it down into the main categories and decide which to pursue next:

1. The WM is faulty and sometimes causes excess earth leakage due to water ingress, chafed cables, faulty components. This might correlate with a cycle position, load weight, temperature etc. A maintenance person might find evidence during testing regardless of whether a trip occurs, but intermittents can be notoriously difficult to find. Although I don't like the sound of the Bosch guy's attitude I would not blame him straight off for not finding the problem, as I have spent literally years looking for similar faults.

2. The WM is not faulty but the total leakage on the circuit is high. At a particular point in the cycle or under certain wash conditions its contribution to the total leakage increases and the total passes the RCD trip threshold. It can be complicated to discover the necessary pattern of activities that provokes a trip by experiment due to the number of parameters, e.g. how long since the grill was used and whether the fridge compressor starts during the WM's spin. But, electrical testing could give a reasonable indication as to whether the total leakage is high enough for it to be relevant and worthy of consideration. Note that the amount of leakage is not directly related to the power consumption of each appliance or whether it is switched on. A switched-off PC can leak as much as 100 switched-on heaters.

3. There is an actual fault on the wiring that is being physically disturbed by the WM, e.g. a damaged cable under a floorboard that the machine stands on, that only vibrates when spinning. Pulling the WM out could conceal this problem indefinitely. Visual inspection of the wiring is the only way to rule it out.
 
Was thinking along machine vibration , finding something loose nearby.
(after watching "Ripples" in my washing up water)
..and a very quiet Zanussi.. on spin..
(Exension lead test may actually need other local supply turned off!!)
3. There is an actual fault on the wiring that is being physically disturbed by the WM, e.g. a damaged cable under a floorboard that the machine stands on, that only vibrates when spinning. Pulling the WM out could conceal this problem indefinitely. Visual inspection of the wiring is the only way to rule it out.
 
Many thanks for all your replies.

OP stated that this is the 2nd Bosch machine that has caused the same problem. A few basic checks of household electrics might be a worthwhile investment, starting with a ramp test of the RCD in question?
I bought the previous Bosch two years ago. It was a smaller 7kg machine. My current one is an 8kg Bosch Series 6. Within three weeks the 7kg machine started intermittently tripping the RCD. The trips were more frequent than the ones I'm experiencing now with this machine. I got the Bosch engineer (the same guy who recently looked at my current machine) to look at it. He ran the electrical, quick wash and spin tests on the machine and checked the sockets. He didn't look inside the machine. He said he couldn't find a fault on the machine (the previous 7kg one) and attributed the problem to the dedicated mains socket that I have for the machine - despite his socket testing gadget showing no faults.
He advised me to put the machine on another socket. I did this and the machine was still tripping. So I was forced to call out another Bosch engineer. He ran the same electrical, quick wash, and spin tests on the machine. It intermittently tripped in front of him while running the quick wash cycle. So he declared a motor fault. This second Bosch engineer also did not look inside the machine.

The brand new 7kg machine was declared faulty so I paid a bit extra and got it replaced with my current 8kg Bosch from John Lewis. My current machine has gone for almost two and half years without tripping. During this time it was connected to the dedicated mains socket that the first Bosch engineer said was "faulty". If my RCD or the power socket was faulty, then surely my current machine would not be able to go for almost two and a half years without tripping the mains. This is why I found it hard to accept the recent diagnosis from the Bosch engineer (who also diagnosed the previous machine).

Is this machine plugged into the same circuit as everything else in the kitchen ('kitchen ring')?

What else is plugged into this circuit? If you could list everything and anything plugged in it would help.

My uneducated gut is thinking cumulative earth leakage tripping the RCD so that next step for me would be to unplug everything and start plugging things back in and monitoring the earth leakage.

I would combine that with a load check on a clamp meter while the machine e does a cycle, just to get an idea of how much leakage there is. It may just be you've got too much leakage and the RCD does its job.

You may find having a separate radial (on am RCBO) for your white goods eliminates the tripping issue
Hi thanks
This morning I decided to find out which circuits my devices and appliances are on. My RCD is only labelled with A,B,C,D and numbers. So it was difficult to figure which circuit breaker is responsible for what.
The big thing I've learned today is that all the appliances in the kitchen (microwave, boiler, kettle, washing machine, and fridge, and a small lamp) are all on one circuit breaker. BUT this is not the circuit breaker that trips. All this time I presumed the circuit breaker that trips was responsible for the machine and all the appliances in the kitchen, but it's not the one that trips.

The circuit breaker that trips covers the following:
Wireless router, 19" flat panel TV, small speakers and subwoofer (all three are connected via a four plug extension and are always on/standby)
BT cordless phone main base unit (plugged directly into a mains socket and always on)
Smartphone charger (always plugged in, but turned off at the mains)
Small decorative lamp with five lights, but only one bulb installed (always plugged and switched on at the mains, but never in operation while the machine is running)
Small DAB radio (always plugged in, but turned off at the mains socket)
A small low power single bulb lamp and BT cordless phone charge station (connected via a four plug extension. Always on at the mains. Phone charge station is always on, lamp rarely used never in operation when the washing machine is on)

That's everything that's plugged into the circuit that trips.

Break it down into the main categories and decide which to pursue next: 1. The WM is faulty and sometimes causes excess earth leakage due to water ingress, chafed cables, faulty components. This might correlate with a cycle position, load weight, temperature etc. A maintenance person might find evidence during testing regardless of whether a trip occurs, but intermittents can be notoriously difficult to find. Although I don't like the sound of the Bosch guy's attitude I would not blame him straight off for not finding the problem, as I have spent literally years looking for similar faults. 2. The WM is not faulty but the total leakage on the circuit is high. At a particular point in the cycle or under certain wash conditions its contribution to the total leakage increases and the total passes the RCD trip threshold. It can be complicated to discover the necessary pattern of activities that provokes a trip by experiment due to the number of parameters, e.g. how long since the grill was used and whether the fridge compressor starts during the WM's spin. But, electrical testing could give a reasonable indication as to whether the total leakage is high enough for it to be relevant and worthy of consideration. Note that the amount of leakage is not directly related to the power consumption of each appliance or whether it is switched on. A switched-off PC can leak as much as 100 switched-on heaters. 3. There is an actual fault on the wiring that is being physically disturbed by the WM, e.g. a damaged cable under a floorboard that the machine stands on, that only vibrates when spinning. Pulling the WM out could conceal this problem indefinitely. Visual inspection of the wiring is the only way to rule it out.
Hi, thanks

I've never had an argument with a service professional before until I encountered the Bosch engineer who recently looked at my machine. I just wanted him to inspect the machine properly and asked him to take the top panel off and check for stray wires, chaffing, see if the drum is catching, etc.
And that's when he flipped. He said he didn't need to take the top panel off as he could see everything through the hole in the back. I asked him several times, and he became sarcastic and invited me to look at the machine since I was the "expert". I declined and I said I wasn't going to pay if he wasn't going to inspect it properly.
At that point he said he didn't need to be in my home. I tried to reason with him and said I would be happy to pay if he would just look at it properly. His body language became increasingly hostile and he repeatedly kept saying "you've refused to pay" and used that as an excuse to storm out.

He shoved the machine back under the worktop and left it unbalanced and unplugged.
He also lied in the engineer's report. He said he wanted to carry out a 15-minute quick wash cycle on another socket. I would have been happy for him to do this, except he actually told me he wanted to run a cycle for over an hour on another socket while he went away. I declined because I wanted him to visually inspect the inside of the machine properly first, something which he said wasn't necessary.
I also noticed there were no readings for any of the electrical tests on his report.
I wrote a long email to Bosch, but they are standing by him and his conduct.
Based on the symptoms I described I was expecting a more thorough inspection of the machine beyond the basic tests. I just didn't expect such poor service from Bosch.

I really hoped to rule out a fault with the machine. I've just discovered today that the actual circuit breaker that trips isn't the one covering the circuit that the washing machine or any of the kitchen appliances are on.

All this time I presumed that the circuit breaker that was tripping was the one that the machine is on (my RCD has no labels identifying which breaker belongs to which room), but it isn't.

I don't know whether this means that the machine is not faulty. Perhaps you are right. The earth leakage is so high from other devices on the tripped circuit and the machine's "normal" earth leakage is just tipping it over.

But from what I've worked out today, the machine is not on the circuit that is tripping. Could the earth leakage from a device or appliance on one circuit cause the circuit breaker on another circuit to trip?

Thoughts appreciated.
 
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Disagree by all means, but your default position I have noticed over the years is 'get an EICR'....Where I take issue is the notion that an EICR will identify all problems, which seems to be your inference. You need to have a look at the guidance on carrying out EICR's which requires them to be carried out with minimal dismantling, this is because dismantling for inspection is time consuming (cost burden),damaging to surface finishes (unacceptable) and potentially introduces faults that were not there before. Except on very small installations 100% sampling is neither recommended or practical. Bear in mind that 50% sampling (and even that is beyond what is recommended) means 50% of points will not be subject to full inspection by removal, and hence could hide loose connections/local thermal damage. In fact 20% sampling is more realistic which means 80% will not be fully inspected!
And you invariably suggest to the punters on here that an EICR is their golden ticket to perfection.
I ask again. Have you ever actually carried out a full EICR?
The limitations of what an EICR at acceptable cost can identify need to be made much clearer to the paying public.
Yes. . . .
 
Break it down into the main categories and decide which to pursue next:

1. The WM is faulty and sometimes causes excess earth leakage due to water ingress, chafed cables, faulty components. This might correlate with a cycle position, load weight, temperature etc. A maintenance person might find evidence during testing regardless of whether a trip occurs, but intermittents can be notoriously difficult to find. Although I don't like the sound of the Bosch guy's attitude I would not blame him straight off for not finding the problem, as I have spent literally years looking for similar faults.

2. The WM is not faulty but the total leakage on the circuit is high. At a particular point in the cycle or under certain wash conditions its contribution to the total leakage increases and the total passes the RCD trip threshold. It can be complicated to discover the necessary pattern of activities that provokes a trip by experiment due to the number of parameters, e.g. how long since the grill was used and whether the fridge compressor starts during the WM's spin. But, electrical testing could give a reasonable indication as to whether the total leakage is high enough for it to be relevant and worthy of consideration. Note that the amount of leakage is not directly related to the power consumption of each appliance or whether it is switched on. A switched-off PC can leak as much as 100 switched-on heaters.

3. There is an actual fault on the wiring that is being physically disturbed by the WM, e.g. a damaged cable under a floorboard that the machine stands on, that only vibrates when spinning. Pulling the WM out could conceal this problem indefinitely. Visual inspection of the wiring is the only way to rule it out.
Am sure I covered point 2 ? if the machine has been passed then I'd look at 2 followed by 3 and for belt and braces an EICR ducks and runs for cover
 
Many thanks for all your replies.


I bought the previous Bosch two years ago. It was a smaller 7kg machine. My current one is an 8kg Bosch Series 6. Within three weeks the 7kg machine started intermittently tripping the RCD. The trips were more frequent than the ones I'm experiencing now with this machine. I got the Bosch engineer (the same guy who recently looked at my current machine) to look at it. He ran the electrical, quick wash and spin tests on the machine and checked the sockets. He didn't look inside the machine. He said he couldn't find a fault on the machine (the previous 7kg one) and attributed the problem to the dedicated mains socket that I have for the machine - despite his socket testing gadget showing no faults.
He advised me to put the machine on another socket. I did this and the machine was still tripping. So I was forced to call out another Bosch engineer. He ran the same electrical, quick wash, and spin tests on the machine. It intermittently tripped in front of him while running the quick wash cycle. So he declared a motor fault. This second Bosch engineer also did not look inside the machine.

I'm absolutely not qualified to advise on this issue, but simply wanted to highlight one piece of information that had seemingly been overlooked by others who are qualified. It may be relevant that you have experienced this same fault with two consecutive machines or the irreularity of trips may suggest that it is of no relevance.
 
Many thanks for all your replies.


I bought the previous Bosch two years ago. It was a smaller 7kg machine. My current one is an 8kg Bosch Series 6. Within three weeks the 7kg machine started intermittently tripping the RCD. The trips were more frequent than the ones I'm experiencing now with this machine. I got the Bosch engineer (the same guy who recently looked at my current machine) to look at it. He ran the electrical, quick wash and spin tests on the machine and checked the sockets. He didn't look inside the machine. He said he couldn't find a fault on the machine (the previous 7kg one) and attributed the problem to the dedicated mains socket that I have for the machine - despite his socket testing gadget showing no faults.
He advised me to put the machine on another socket. I did this and the machine was still tripping. So I was forced to call out another Bosch engineer. He ran the same electrical, quick wash, and spin tests on the machine. It intermittently tripped in front of him while running the quick wash cycle. So he declared a motor fault. This second Bosch engineer also did not look inside the machine.

The brand new 7kg machine was declared faulty so I paid a bit extra and got it replaced with my current 8kg Bosch from John Lewis. My current machine has gone for almost two and half years without tripping. During this time it was connected to the dedicated mains socket that the first Bosch engineer said was "faulty". If my RCD or the power socket was faulty, then surely my current machine would not be able to go for almost two and a half years without tripping the mains. This is why I found it hard to accept the recent diagnosis from the Bosch engineer (who also diagnosed the previous machine).


Hi thanks
This morning I decided to find out which circuits my devices and appliances are on. My RCD is only labelled with A,B,C,D and numbers. So it was difficult to figure which circuit breaker is responsible for what.
The big thing I've learned today is that all the appliances in the kitchen (microwave, boiler, kettle, washing machine, and fridge, and a small lamp) are all on one circuit breaker. BUT this is not the circuit breaker that trips. All this time I presumed the circuit breaker that trips was responsible for the machine and all the appliances in the kitchen, but it's not the one that trips.

The circuit breaker that trips covers the following:
Wireless router, 19" flat panel TV, small speakers and subwoofer (all three are connected via a four plug extension and are always on/standby)
BT cordless phone main base unit (plugged directly into a mains socket and always on)
Smartphone charger (always plugged in, but turned off at the mains)
Small decorative lamp with five lights, but only one bulb installed (always plugged and switched on at the mains, but never in operation while the machine is running)
Small DAB radio (always plugged in, but turned off at the mains socket)
A small low power single bulb lamp and BT cordless phone charge station (connected via a four plug extension. Always on at the mains. Phone charge station is always on, lamp rarely used never in operation when the washing machine is on)

That's everything that's plugged into the circuit that trips.


Hi, thanks

I've never had an argument with a service professional before until I encountered the Bosch engineer who recently looked at my machine. I just wanted him to inspect the machine properly and asked him to take the top panel off and check for stray wires, chaffing, see if the drum is catching, etc.
And that's when he flipped. He said he didn't need to take the top panel off as he could see everything through the hole in the back. I asked him several times, and he became sarcastic and invited me to look at the machine since I was the "expert". I declined and I said I wasn't going to pay if he wasn't going to inspect it properly.
At that point he said he didn't need to be in my home. I tried to reason with him and said I would be happy to pay if he would just look at it properly. His body language became increasingly hostile and he repeatedly kept saying "you've refused to pay" and used that as an excuse to storm out.

He shoved the machine back under the worktop and left it unbalanced and unplugged.
He also lied in the engineer's report. He said he wanted to carry out a 15-minute quick wash cycle on another socket. I would have been happy for him to do this, except he actually told me he wanted to run a cycle for over an hour on another socket while he went away. I declined because I wanted him to visually inspect the inside of the machine properly first, something which he said wasn't necessary.
I also noticed there were no readings for any of the electrical tests on his report.
I wrote a long email to Bosch, but they are standing by him and his conduct.
Based on the symptoms I described I was expecting a more thorough inspection of the machine beyond the basic tests. I just didn't expect such poor service from Bosch.

I really hoped to rule out a fault with the machine. I've just discovered today that the actual circuit breaker that trips isn't the one covering the circuit that the washing machine or any of the kitchen appliances are on.

All this time I presumed that the circuit breaker that was tripping was the one that the machine is on (my RCD has no labels identifying which breaker belongs to which room), but it isn't.

I don't know whether this means that the machine is not faulty. Perhaps you are right. The earth leakage is so high from other devices on the tripped circuit and the machine's "normal" earth leakage is just tipping it over.

But from what I've worked out today, the machine is not on the circuit that is tripping. Could the earth leakage from a device or appliance on one circuit cause the circuit breaker on another circuit to trip?

Thoughts appreciated.
I think you should ask a competent electrician to investigate exactly what is tripping and carry out some tests such as insulation resistance and earth leakage.
Don't listen to the nonsense about EICR's. The purpose of an EICR is to verify the safety and compliance of an entire installation as far as reasonably practical. It is NOT intended as a specific fault finding procedure.
IMO it would be unlikely that a visual inspection of the internal wiring of the appliance would identify a fault, not impossible but unlikely. Whilst from your description the Bosch engineer behaved unreasonably, no tradesman will take kindly to a client telling them how to do their job.
 
I think you should ask a competent electrician to investigate exactly what is tripping and carry out some tests such as insulation resistance and earth leakage.
Don't listen to the nonsense about EICR's. The purpose of an EICR is to verify the safety and compliance of an entire installation as far as reasonably practical. It is NOT intended as a specific fault finding procedure.
IMO it would be unlikely that a visual inspection of the internal wiring of the appliance would identify a fault, not impossible but unlikely. Whilst from your description the Bosch engineer behaved unreasonably, no tradesman will take kindly to a client telling them how to do their job.
I think you should ask a competent electrician to investigate exactly what is tripping and carry out some tests such as insulation resistance and earth leakage.
Don't listen to the nonsense about EICR's. The purpose of an EICR is to verify the safety and compliance of an entire installation as far as reasonably practical. It is NOT intended as a specific fault finding procedure.
IMO it would be unlikely that a visual inspection of the internal wiring of the appliance would identify a fault, not impossible but unlikely. Whilst from your description the Bosch engineer behaved unreasonably, no tradesman will take kindly to a client telling them how to do their job.
It's not Nonsense Mate, you have mentioned 20& 50% that but have you ever mentioned the correct operation of the RCD? no you have battered on about EICRs the operation of the RCD MAY BE THE ROOT of the problem, you shouldn't as a respected member dissuade the uninitiated to call an EICR "a nonsense"
 
They said I should contact an electrician and ensure that an RCD is fitted with a unit that has a symbol that I can best describe as two curly lines (my RCD doesn’t have this symbol).
On just this small point of your post, this is probably a red herring.

There are several types of RCD - these are the most common you see in domestic, with AC being the most common until recently:

RCDs.png (Edit: fixed pic)

Some modern washing machines using inverter drives etc, can cause the AC type to not trip as quickly as they they should, because of the DC on the circuit. However, this is the opposite of what you are experiencing. Type A are generally recommended now because they can cope with this.

I'm not aware of washing machines being more likely to trip AC RCDs, though others more knowledgeable may know otherwise.
[automerge]1598899723[/automerge]
Hi thanks
This morning I decided to find out which circuits my devices and appliances are on. My RCD is only labelled with A,B,C,D and numbers. So it was difficult to figure which circuit breaker is responsible for what.
The big thing I've learned today is that all the appliances in the kitchen (microwave, boiler, kettle, washing machine, and fridge, and a small lamp) are all on one circuit breaker. BUT this is not the circuit breaker that trips. All this time I presumed the circuit breaker that trips was responsible for the machine and all the appliances in the kitchen, but it's not the one that trips.

The circuit breaker that trips covers the following:
Wireless router, 19" flat panel TV, small speakers and subwoofer (all three are connected via a four plug extension and are always on/standby)
BT cordless phone main base unit (plugged directly into a mains socket and always on)
Smartphone charger (always plugged in, but turned off at the mains)
Small decorative lamp with five lights, but only one bulb installed (always plugged and switched on at the mains, but never in operation while the machine is running)
Small DAB radio (always plugged in, but turned off at the mains socket)
A small low power single bulb lamp and BT cordless phone charge station (connected via a four plug extension. Always on at the mains. Phone charge station is always on, lamp rarely used never in operation when the washing machine is on)

That's everything that's plugged into the circuit that trips.
A picture of the board would really help. But does the washing machine not turn off when things 'trip'? If it does, then it must be covered by the RCD.

An RCD can cover several 'breakers' and circuits though.

If the washing machine stays on when the RCD/circuit breaker trips, then there is definitely something wrong with the house wiring (or vibration of a nearby cable by the washing machine, so indirect cause as has been mentioned)
 
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There is an important contradiction in your info that makes it impossible to advise further without clarification.

In post #1 you said:
I run the machine and it trips the mains just as it was about start up its final spin. I reset the RCD and it completed the cycle from where it was interrupted.
Indicating that the RCD that trips feeds the circuit that the machine is on.

In post #24 you said:
I've just discovered today that the actual circuit breaker that trips isn't the one covering the circuit that the washing machine or any of the kitchen appliances are on.

Either the cycle was interrupted by the breaker tripping or it wasn't. The diagnoses are completely different.

It is possible for an appliance to trip an RCD that does not feed it. The implications are:
1. The likely cause is a neutral-earth fault on a circuit protected by the RCD that trips. It could be in the wiring or an appliance plugged in, which need not be switched on.
2. There is no indication of a problem with the appliance that triggers the trip event, nor the circuit that it is plugged into. It is simply the peak load current (not earth leakage) of the appliance causing the remote, faulty circuit to leak to earth.
3. An electrical test of the affected circuits will almost certainly locate it at once.

I know what my next move would be...
 
On just this small point of your post, this is probably a red herring.

There are several types of RCD - these are the most common you see in domestic, with AC being the most common until recently:

View attachment 60516 (Edit: fixed pic)

Some modern washing machines using inverter drives etc, can cause the AC type to not trip as quickly as they they should, because of the DC on the circuit. However, this is the opposite of what you are experiencing. Type A are generally recommended now because they can cope with this.

I'm not aware of washing machines being more likely to trip AC RCDs, though others more knowledgeable may know otherwise.
[automerge]1598899723[/automerge]

A picture of the board would really help. But does the washing machine not turn off when things 'trip'? If it does, then it must be covered by the RCD.

An RCD can cover several 'breakers' and circuits though.

If the washing machine stays on when the RCD/circuit breaker trips, then there is definitely something wrong with the house wiring (or vibration of a nearby cable by the washing machine, so indirect cause as has been mentioned)
Hi, apologies for the delayed reply.
I was advised by Bosch's technical department to have an RCD with the symbol under the A in your picture. My RCD doesn't have this symbol. I will attempt to get a picture of it.
I can confirm that the washing machine turns off when it trips. What I discovered yesterday was that the washing machine, microwave, kettle, fridge are all on one circuit. But the circuit breaker for this circuit isn't the one that is tripping. My board isn't labelled with "kitchen", "bathroom", "living room", etc. so I had to manually work out what was on each circuit (I didn't do this in all the years I lived here).

What I found was that the circuit breaker that trips when machine is in operation is not the circuit breaker that covers the circuit that the machine is on.

Those electrical devices I listed in my previous post are on the circuit with the breaker that trips. So that's why I am confused because up until yesterday, I thought the breaker that trips is the one responsible for protecting the circuit that the machine is on, but that isn't the case.

Yesterday afternoon, Apart from my TV, wireless router, and speakers, I unplugged all the devices on the circuit with the breaker that trips and ran the machine on a full load two hour 60C wash cycle, followed by an 800rpm spin. It completed both programs without tripping.

What I am confused about is that I only get trips when the machine is in operation. When the machine is not in use everything is fine - no nuisance trips, nothing. Logically when the machine trips the circuit breaker responsible for the circuit that the machine is on should also trip and cut the power. But the circuit breaker that trips and cuts the power is the one responsible for the circuit for those devices I listed in my previous post.

What I wanted to know is can the machine cause the circuit breaker on another circuit to trip? If there is a fault with the machine itself or the circuit that the machine is on, then surely the breaker for machine's circuit should trip. Instead the breaker with all those lower power devices I listed trips and cuts the power.


There is an important contradiction in your info that makes it impossible to advise further without clarification.

In post #1 you said:

Indicating that the RCD that trips feeds the circuit that the machine is on.

In post #24 you said:


Either the cycle was interrupted by the breaker tripping or it wasn't. The diagnoses are completely different.

It is possible for an appliance to trip an RCD that does not feed it. The implications are:
1. The likely cause is a neutral-earth fault on a circuit protected by the RCD that trips. It could be in the wiring or an appliance plugged in, which need not be switched on.
2. There is no indication of a problem with the appliance that triggers the trip event, nor the circuit that it is plugged into. It is simply the peak load current (not earth leakage) of the appliance causing the remote, faulty circuit to leak to earth.
3. An electrical test of the affected circuits will almost certainly locate it at once.

I know what my next move would be...

Hi, sorry for the delayed reply.

Up until yesterday I presumed that the circuit breaker that was tripping every time was responsible for the circuit that the washing machine is on. The breakers aren't labelled and in all the years I've lived here I never bothered to work out which breaker is responsible for which set of sockets and lights, etc. in my home.

I decided to do this yesterday morning and I discovered that the microwave, washing machine, kettle and fridge all sit on one circuit, but the actual breaker that trips when the machine is in operation isn't the one responsible for the circuit that the machine is on.
Instead the breaker that actually trips and cuts the power is the one responsible for the circuit that all those devices I listed in my previous post are on.

I only have this intermittent tripping problem whenever the machine is in operation and when it is in the last 30 minutes of the two hour wash cycle. It can't just be a coincidence that I only get a trip when the machine is in use.

From what I've worked out yesterday, I found that the breaker that trips definitely isn't the one responsible for covering the machine.

The machine still loses power and goes off, but the breaker that actually trips covers a different circuit (the one with all those low power devices I listed).
Logically shouldn't the breaker for the machine's circuit trip if there is an issue with the washing machine?

I don't what to make of it. Could it be that there is a lot earth leakage from one or more of those low power devices and the machine's "natural leakage" causes the breaker on the other circuit to trip?

I didn't think this was possible, but from reading your post it sounds like it is possible for the machine to trip the breaker on another circuit.

I guess the next step isn't going back to Bosch, but calling electrician to find out what's going on.

Many thanks
 
From what I've worked out yesterday, I found that the breaker that trips definitely isn't the one responsible for covering the machine.

The machine still loses power and goes off, but the breaker that actually trips covers a different circuit (the one with all those low power devices I listed).
Logically shouldn't the breaker for the machine's circuit trip if there is an issue with the washing machine?
In many CU (consumer unit = fuse box) there are two types of breaker:
  • One or two RCD (residual current device) to trip on earth leakage, generally electric shock risk
  • 4-12 or so MCB (miniature circuit breaker) to trip on overload, typically a hard fault fire risk
So you will often find one RCD feeds several MCB, and you can turn of each circuit separately via the MCB, but if you do that to the RCD (e.g. the test button) then several circuits go off at once.

I don't what to make of it. Could it be that there is a lot earth leakage from one or more of those low power devices and the machine's "natural leakage" causes the breaker on the other circuit to trip?

I didn't think this was possible, but from reading your post it sounds like it is possible for the machine to trip the breaker on another circuit.

I guess the next step isn't going back to Bosch, but calling electrician to find out what's going on.
The unfortunate thing above the above arrangement is the RCD will trip if it sees somewhere between 15-30mA (1mA = 0.001A) going astray, and that can be due to various reasons that are a fault (bad cable insulation, water getting in to a junction box or socket, etc). But also many electronic items have filters in them that leak 1-2mA normally, so if you have enough items on a circuit it can be prone to such trips.

A good electrician should be able to verify the RCD and you cable, etc, is working correctly. That is the first step in doing any sort of corrective work.

If that checks out OK, then some can also do PAT testing of appliances to see if any are unusually leaky. If so you might decide to replace it.

But the other option that would normally be suggested on here would be to put the washing machine and related appliances on a separate RCD, so hopefully the total that is worrying close to the 15-30mA trip range is then split in two, and both are below the trip point.

How easy and cost-effective that is would depend on your CU, if it has the space and if it is recent enough that new compatible parts are still available.
[automerge]1598980551[/automerge]
Can you post a photo of your CU?

If it has any personal information on it then please blank that out, but what is of interest is the view of the MCB/RCD, not any labels.
[automerge]1598980881[/automerge]
I can't find the clear explanation I saw before, but this explains a bit about RCD:
Probably others will have a better site to link to.
[automerge]1598981695[/automerge]
Another point is many appliances are left powered on at the mains but in stand-by, in these cases they often have as much leakage as when fully operating. So if you are in an unfortunate position of total leakage close to RCD trip and can't afford to make the sort of changes needed to fully fix things to be reliable, you would have to actually turn the unused appliances off at the mains socket.

Obviously not things like the fridge though that need to be left on!
 
Last edited:
In many CU (consumer unit = fuse box) there are two types of breaker:
  • One or two RCD (residual current device) to trip on earth leakage, generally electric shock risk
  • 4-12 or so MCB (miniature circuit breaker) to trip on overload, typically a hard fault fire risk
So you will often find one RCD feeds several MCB, and you can turn of each circuit separately via the MCB, but if you do that to the RCD (e.g. the test button) then several circuits go off at once.


The unfortunate thing above the above arrangement is the RCD will trip if it sees somewhere between 15-30mA (1mA = 0.001A) going astray, and that can be due to various reasons that are a fault (bad cable insulation, water getting in to a junction box or socket, etc). But also many electronic items have filters in them that leak 1-2mA normally, so if you have enough items on a circuit it can be prone to such trips.

A good electrician should be able to verify the RCD and you cable, etc, is working correctly. That is the first step in doing any sort of corrective work.

If that checks out OK, then some can also do PAT testing of appliances to see if any are unusually leaky. If so you might decide to replace it.

But the other option that would normally be suggested on here would be to put the washing machine and related appliances on a separate RCD, so hopefully the total that is worrying close to the 15-30mA trip range is then split in two, and both are below the trip point.

How easy and cost-effective that is would depend on your CU, if it has the space and if it is recent enough that new compatible parts are still available.
[automerge]1598980551[/automerge]
Can you post a photo of your CU?

If it has any personal information on it then please blank that out, but what is of interest is the view of the MCB/RCD, not any labels.
[automerge]1598980881[/automerge]
I can't find the clear explanation I saw before, but this explains a bit about RCD:
Probably others will have a better site to link to.
[automerge]1598981695[/automerge]
Another point is many appliances are left powered on at the mains but in stand-by, in these cases they often have as much leakage as when fully operating. So if you are in an unfortunate position of total leakage close to RCD trip and can't afford to make the sort of changes needed to fully fix things to be reliable, you would have to actually turn the unused appliances off at the mains socket.

Obviously not things like the fridge though that need to be left on!
Hi, many thanks for the informative post.
I unplugged almost everything on the circuit with breaker that actually trips and I ran the machine and it completed with no trips. Of course, this doesn't really prove anything since the machine has completed successfully when everything has been plugged in (hence the intermittent nature of the tripping).

It really sounds as if the best thing to do is to forget about going back to Bosch and to get an electrician to look at it instead.

Here is picture of my unit. Sorry about the quality - the lighting is not very good at the moment. I will try to get a better picture tomorrow during the day. The machine and all the kitchen appliances apart from the boiler are covered the 32A circuit breaker on the far left (labelled A). The actual breaker (also 32A) that trips when the machine is on is the one next to it (second from left, labelled B). It is responsible for all the devices I listed in my earlier post:

IMG_20200831_122749050.jpg
 
I think it does. I have to pull it down (the red lever) and flick it back up again to get the power back.
Yeah, it does then.

Please confirm: when the tripping occurs, if you leave the tripped breaker B in the off position, and reset the RCD as you have just described, the power returns to the washing machine?
 
Yeah, it does then.

Please confirm: when the tripping occurs, if you leave the tripped breaker B in the off position, and reset the RCD as you have just described, the power returns to the washing machine?
I've never tried that before. I can try it the next time it trips and report back. I'll be using the machine again tomorrow, so if it trips, I will reset the RCD while leaving the tripped breaker off and I'll see what happens.
 
I've never tried that before. I can try it the next time it trips and report back. I'll be using the machine again tomorrow, so if it trips, I will reset the RCD while leaving the tripped breaker off and I'll see what happens.
Try this now: Leave breaker A on, switch off B, do you have power to the w/machine?
 

Reply to Washing machine intermittently trips RCD. Manufacturer declares machine fault-free and suggests faulty home electrics. What should I do? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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