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Consumer Unit Connection Process

Discuss Consumer Unit Connection Process in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hi,

Just saw another thread where a new lad has posted a pic of his board he is wiring...

It got me thinking...

When you change a CU or fit a new one on a new build or where ever etc..., how do you go about connecting everything in the board? Looking at the other thread he has taken the breakers etc out and neatly positioned the neutrals and CPC etc.

I normally fill the board up with breakers then struggle to get it all in neatly.

What do you do? It would interesting to hear.
 
If its populated I take all the MCB's / RCBO's out AND often also take the bus bar out so that when I'm threading all the cables in it can be done as neatly as possible - that includes the tails, main earth and bonding!
 
I like to keep all conductors the same length if possible (L.N+E), usually 1.5 times the height of the board , and leave the slack behind the din rail , that way if you need to alter or reconfigure the internals you have not left conductors too short, or if ever the board is changed in the future ,,
 
I like to keep all conductors the same length if possible (L.N+E), usually 1.5 times the height of the board , and leave the slack behind the din rail , that way if you need to alter or reconfigure the internals you have not left conductors too short, or if ever the board is changed in the future ,,

Me 2 but on most CU changes I find myself extending the conductors!
 
Hi,

Just saw another thread where a new lad has posted a pic of his board he is wiring...

It got me thinking...

When you change a CU or fit a new one on a new build or where ever etc..., how do you go about connecting everything in the board? Looking at the other thread he has taken the breakers etc out and neatly positioned the neutrals and CPC etc.

I normally fill the board up with breakers then struggle to get it all in neatly.

What do you do? It would interesting to hear.
the MCBs, RCDs/RCBOs and the incomer should all come out as a module....dont forget that the din-rail will unscrew (2 screws 1 each end)....just drop the lot out...there....you now have all the room you need to turn them tails and bank all them finals in nicely....
 
Thats where Ive been going wrong, I usually just pull all the wires through together then spends hrs working out what goes where! If there are any left over at the end I just push them down behind everything ......
 
Thats where Ive been going wrong, I usually just pull all the wires through together then spends hrs working out what goes where! If there are any left over at the end I just push them down behind everything ......

mate your just making work for yourself there just get them stripped and fill the spaces until you've done every circuit or you've filled all the spaces and if there's out left over push them down the back like you have been doing. Why go to all the bother of working things out that's over rated
 
See I was always told third time lucky but I suppose I might be able to get it right the second time if I was having a really good day



but on a serious note I always mount the carcass then put all the earths away nice and neat then the neutrals then put the dinrail and breakers in and do the tails and the lives..........simples
 
2 fron dirion 002.jpgor just shove em in like this
 
Thanks everyone for pointing me in a better direct so to speak, ive got a new board im doing next week, so ill give it a try, I suppose until someone says do it this way its better, you stick to the tried and tested.
 
Havn't done too many, but ....

For new boards.

-First i take out all the guts, din rails ect.
-Put away the main earth and bonding conductors
-Strip back all the twins (and mark them up)
-Put away all the earths
-Then the neutrals
-Then put the "guts" back in, and all breakers. Connect the tails. Then lives last.

Here is a recent one i did, im quite happy with it to be fair IMG_1744.jpg

Everyone has their own way though :)
 
Hi,

Ok, been wiring up this new board today, finishing it off tomorrow and making live, I have to say, this new way is so much better, it feels like there is 10x more space in the board now. See the photos of today's work, not finished yet, just been working on it this afternoon, going back in the morning.

The three phase board above, I've got some paxolin now, so cuttting it about to take all the phases through that instead to avoid any eddie currents.

The 16A socket, before someone says it, I know its on a different circuit and goes through the back of the garage sockets... I have labelled it in case someone doesn't realise though.

Feel free to pass comments anyway.

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Oh and before someone says about extending the equipotential zone with a 16A socket, its TNS...
 
I like the MK boards, I tend to only fit them as carry parts etc... This is a metal clad board so it's really nice to work with.

You get mixed comments on MK boards, but I have nothing bad to say about them.

The labeller, it's a Brother, I use it all the time, I've had it 12 months or so, it's worth every penny.
 

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