So I’m a industrial sparks having a go at domestic (help!!!)

I’ve ran all cables back to one point in the loft.

From the point in the loft I have the following cables...
All 1.5mm t+e

1 Feed in from bathroom pull cord (1st point after consumer unit)
1 cable to Hallway switch
1 cable to 1st bedroom switch
1 cable to 2nd bedroom switch
1 cable to Hallway pendent
1 cable to 3rd bedroom switch (cable from there to pendant)
1 cable to 1st bedroom pendant
1 cable to 2nd bedroom pendant

I can’t work out how to connect them up!

someone please help! (See picture)
 

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How many light fittings are there, you have more switch cables than pendant cables. Which one is the live feed. You have two sleeved blues connected to three browns. To be honest I can't see what you have done.
 
As a newby to this lark I’ve had great fun working out what’s gone on before with old lighting circuits. I’d be looping the feed in and out of the switches and do away with the hidden junction boxes.
 
And this is why we don’t use joint boxes in domestic very often now.
The only thing I can suggest is to draw out the circuits with lives, neutrals and all the switch wires.
 
You need to separate the switch cables into single 2 way wagos with they respective light etc from what I can make out there you have all the switch lines in together?? You have three marked up as switch lines but they are all in the same wago with I presume 3 feeds out to each light are they coming on together?
 
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Seems like some sort of spider circuit, as was used years ago. I used to come across them wired in old lead cables, some done beautifully, I might add. You'll fox quite a few on here, with that...as well as yourself. There are much easier ways to do it. Why have you fed in via the bathroom pull switch? When you talk about the third bedroom switch and cable from there to pendant.....that's the way you should be thinking throughout.
Bin the box and start from scratch.
 
just love that video with the cables coming out like stretched spaghetti
 
A lot of things about this don't make sense, like the feed for the circuit being looped at the pull switch, and the method used for wiring the new lights, and an electrician not being able to figure out how switching works.

OP could you change your profile to be publicly viewed and fill in your quals and experience so we can help you better ?
 
I can't see what people have against the OP's octopus box. It's a perfectly legitimate way to group connections in an accessible place and I do the same when convenient. Future mods or upgrades to central smart controls are much easier when everything is in one place. It's a pity the switch drops don't have neutrals available to operate future smart switches but that's not related to the choice of octopus layout.

The switched lines all being in one Wago, however, is something the OP will be kicking himself for presently. Fix as per post #5.
 
I can't see what people have against the OP's octopus box. It's a perfectly legitimate way to group connections in an accessible place and I do the same when convenient. Future mods or upgrades to central smart controls are much easier when everything is in one place. It's a pity the switch drops don't have neutrals available to operate future smart switches but that's not related to the choice of octopus layout.

The switched lines all being in one Wago, however, is something the OP will be kicking himself for presently. Fix as per post #5.

It's a legit method agreed. I've not found it convenient or easy for additions where i have found older versions in domestic properties though. Fine for a JB in the loft for the upstairs lights, it's the downstairs lights one hidden somewhere under the floorboards that is usually the issue.
I'd personally much rather have a system with connections only at accessories. But then, I don't have anything to do with smart home systems.
 
I've nothing against the octopus method as long as it is wired correctly!

I'm considering using a similar method when I redo my upstairs lighting, with a central box in the loft.
 
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Can’t get lights to work
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