Discuss Crimping 240v Twin and Earth - Safe?? in the Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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i use crimps all the time always check the connection then insulate with self amalgamating tape insulated to 8 k ,well thats what it says on the packet , but always make sure the connection is good , graet for extending cables in cdu's and sockets some time to
 
i use crimps all the time always check the connection then insulate with self amalgamating tape insulated to 8 k ,well thats what it says on the packet , but always make sure the connection is good , graet for extending cables in cdu's and sockets some time to

Yes I also use them a lot. However I was told by NICEIC helpline that if you use amalgamating tape you should crimp then put cable sheath around joint then tape up, or just use heatshrink. I find heatshrink much quicker than tape.
 
Yes I've done the sheath before tape method. Did it once when I ran out of heat shrink. Good to know NICE advise the same.
 
As a matter of interest what does everyone do when Mr DIY man sticks his drill through a bit of T&E in the middle of his lounge wall ? Crimp/bury/forget or stick a gopping box on the wall ?
 
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I thought I’d just drop the following hand grenade into the debate and see who's left standing:
526.5 Every termination and joint in a live conductor or PEN conductor shall be made within one of the following or a combination thereof:
i) A suitable accessory complying with the appropriate product standard.
ii) An equipment enclosure complying with the appropriate product standard.
iii) An enclosure partially formed or completed with building material which is non-combustible when tested to BS476-4

Note specifically 526.5 (iii) an enclosure can be PARTIALLY formed OR COMPLETED with non-combustible building material tested to BS 476-4.
The enclosure cannot therefore be made totally from building material. So a crimped termination, whether covered with supplementary insulation (e.g. heat-shrink sleeve or self-amalgamating tape) or not and buried directly in the wall with building material (e.g. plaster) does not comply with 526.5 (iii).
Any type of tape or sleeving, is defined as supplementary insulation not an enclosure, even if it completely covers the termination. Any cable conductors covered with supplementary insulation, to effectively recreate the original double insulation outer sheath of the original cable, need to be at least equivalent to that of the original cable product standard to comply with 133.1. The cable product standards do not specify insulation withstand capability, as jointing is prohibited. However, 412.2.4.1, Note 1, tells us “… the insulation cable system must be at least equivalent to requirements set out in BS EN 61140 for reinforced insulation.” and would require the impulse dielectric strength testing detailed in the standard to certify this.
 
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So what is the best method of extending cables?

I got a job coming up next weekend (CU change and relocation of CU by 1 meter)

Cables are to short - I was thinking solder them and heat shrink the solder connection after with relevant color.

Or is there a better way?

The cables Ideally will be berried into the wall or ceiling and come out 1M down wall where the CU is going


Not meaning to steal the post!
 
I use the glue lined heat shrink crimps and enclose the termination in a Chocbox (without the terminal strip), the cable clamps prevent strain on the enclosed terminations. This can be buried in a wall, in a safe zone, if required and complies with 526.5.
 
Nicholas Owen, that sounds very expensive for crimps.


Cpc (combined precision components) sell them in bags of a hundred for not much. And they do the job,
 
No offence mr Owen, but I'm a little confused as to how you're qualified to do a CU change, but don't know where to buy crimps... Are you new to the game?
 
I am new to the game - I know where to buy them from, but the problem is I dont know what the correct names are:

I have several companies I use, some cheaper than others, so when I type crimps into Gil-Lec, CPC, QVS, CEF, ETC the ones I want dont come up

So I turn to google to see if anyother company sells them - the only company that came up was Maplin - so what do you think I should think
 
As a footnote, mi, if lugs are needed have to be soldered. The big stuff 25mm and beyond is like working with 6 inch nails, arnie would have trouble forming it, and the dimwit manufacturers give you no room for error in their termination enclosures. Sometimes it is next to impossible and a further splitter box is needed

>>so crimping solid cores aint against the regs,<<
I don't think it is, but very bad practice
totally agree,doing a load at the minute and they range from 50 to 150 mm absolute murder to work with.
 

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