D

Darkwood

Right ... Just been nudged to set this up by Paul.M and sounds a good idea following recent threads I've done in the Arms..

Rules....No Offensive material... edit if required before posting as this is the public arena.
Anything to do with the trade or in and around it ...H&S pic's welcome.

Beware plumbers!!!.jpg

I've posted this a few times and this is at a mates house following a kitchen refirb several yrs ago. :omg_smile:

Beware plumbers!!!.jpg
 
I wonder what the Zs reading at the cooker was.........
There wasn't one - doing an EICR and I always check the continuity between any fixed conductive appliance and earth and this time it turned this up - I had to check the Zs at the appliance out of curiosity once I had pulled it out (and as it is a rental bet you can't guess the cleanliness behind the cooker)
 
There wasn't one - doing an EICR and I always check the continuity between any fixed conductive appliance and earth and this time it turned this up - I had to check the Zs at the appliance out of curiosity once I had pulled it out (and as it is a rental bet you can't guess the cleanliness behind the cooker)
I can efin filthy, right?
 
There wasn't one - doing an EICR and I always check the continuity between any fixed conductive appliance and earth and this time it turned this up - I had to check the Zs at the appliance out of curiosity once I had pulled it out (and as it is a rental bet you can't guess the cleanliness behind the cooker)
Somehow, I think he's jesting....?
 
Why anyone uses those cooker connection plates is beyond me though, and T&E to connect to an appliance don't get me started
I don't know if things have changed but 6.0mm T+E was the general way of connection to a domestic cooker. The stranded L and N were ideal for connection......at the outlet and the appliance.
In the photo example, the cores have been cut and, it looks like, the ends removed from the connections. Was it a pathetic attempt at isolation or something more sinister, I wonder?.....why not just remove the cable?
 
I see no issue with T&E used for an appliance like a cooker. After all it is hardly movable, let alone subject to regular flexing.

Yes, you could use H07RN-F (with ferrules, of course) but often much bigger, more expensive, and hardly necessary.
.....and a low level outlet preventing a cable hanging directly from the cooker unit, in some cases.
 
I see no issue with T&E used for an appliance like a cooker. After all it is hardly movable, let alone subject to regular flexing.

Yes, you could use H07RN-F (with ferrules, of course) but often much bigger, more expensive, and hardly necessary.

Pulled the oven out last year to replace element and noticed it and hob were wired in what appeared to be 3093Y.
 
Behold this joy I found today in the communal meter cupboard of a 15-20 year old block of flats....

IMG_20210605_153449.jpg

IMG_20210605_153701.jpg

Locked door, but one which every flat has the key too since they need to read the meters (or insert credit keys in some cases)

On an unrelated note, the intercom/door control has never worked properly - wonder why?!

Bonus install of emergency luminaire in the stairwell - single insulated conductors visible behind, Clearly the cable was too short when they moved it off the wall for some non-obvious reason....

IMG_20210605_154149.jpg
 
Customer wanted an additional socket fitted to the left of the existing. This is what I found:

Top of the class to anyone who figures out what the 1mm twin and earth is doing there!


20210609_105212.jpg


All done now. Removed the buried JB. Checked the ring was ok and Wagoed ©® the hell out of it.

Note the Copyrighted new word usage...
 
Customer wanted an additional socket fitted to the left of the existing. This is what I found:

Top of the class to anyone who figures out what the 1mm twin and earth is doing there!


View attachment 86525

All done now. Removed the buried JB. Checked the ring was ok and Wagoed ©® the hell out of it.

Note the Copyrighted new word usage...
Registered trademark too your well on the ball
 
It's for a wall light higher up on the same wall, fed from a lighting circuit.

Further investigation revealed that the lights are wired without CPCs, so whoever installed the wall lights thought they might as well run the cable down to the socket to borrow a CPC from the socket, and then back up to the wall light.

Informed the homeowner of the situation.
 

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Dodgy trade pictures for your amusement! - 1 Million Views!
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