D

Darkwood

Right ... Just been nudged to set this up by Paul.M and sounds a good idea following recent threads I've done in the Arms..

Rules....No Offensive material... edit if required before posting as this is the public arena.
Anything to do with the trade or in and around it ...H&S pic's welcome.

Beware plumbers!!!.jpg

I've posted this a few times and this is at a mates house following a kitchen refirb several yrs ago. :omg_smile:

Beware plumbers!!!.jpg
 
Any issues with this.........

Commercial install - Livingston West Lothian Scotland.

I was there doing Underfloor heating existing spur - had a quick look in board - no idea how recent this install was or who did it.

informed client (heating engineer) guarantee nothings been done by building owners.

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That's been shown as an insignificant problem with the currents involved in a domestic situation.
There's a Youtube film knocking about somewhere.

Maybe so but it's still bad practise
 
I stuck a board in last month, it was only a basic one in a detached garage but I still took the same care as I would anything else. Feel free to criticise!
View attachment 33628

Be careful posting pic's like this, it may give a few a reality check of how to make a job look professional and done with pride, if the average joe homeowner see's this then they will all expect this level and most sadly to say won't get anything near to it. :mamazed:
 
That's a disgusting install. What really gets on my ---- is at work we loose out on jobs because we are more expensive than the idckheads that throw this **** in. How lazy, preloaded board, just shove it on the wall as is and stick the wires where you need them, no care, no attention to detail. That's ignoring the madness at the supply end. :mad:

I stuck a board in last month, it was only a basic one in a detached garage but I still took the same care as I would anything else. Feel free to criticise!
View attachment 33628

Very Nice.
Just wondering....
Does that say armour on the sleeving of that cpc? How have you attached to armouring, is there a banjo on the outside of the enclosure?
Also, where is the 2nd neutral for circuit 2 - cant see it in the bar or is it just hidden behind?
Are the neutrals in ferrules? if so why have you used them? Aesthetics?
The neutral for circuit 4 looks larger than the live? in fact they all look the same size, is there a joint somewhere behind the breakers?
What is the 45A breaker supplying?, is it a hot tub or something?

Not being critical at all - nice work, obviously some care and attention to detail

Cheers

Andy
 
Be careful posting pic's like this, it may give a few a reality check of how to make a job look professional and done with pride, if the average joe homeowner see's this then they will all expect this level and most sadly to say won't get anything near to it. :mamazed:
Our prices are quite a bit higher than most of the local electrical companies, partly because there is a number of us as well as office staff, but I hope we offer value for money. It is sometimes difficult to compete with the huge number of local one-man-bands, some of which seem to get away with poor and non-compliant work, but we have enough work to keep us busy.

I have no intention of letting standards slip, or giving in to laziness, its f***ing hard and a slog sometimes, but I keep pushing myself to make sure every box is ticked. I'm an ugly scruffy git in real life, my car is old and needs a wash, and my hair is long and untidy and I'm certainly not perfect when it comes to electrical work. I still have to refer to the regs books and guides now and then and I've made my share of mistakes! But I still aim to work in a professional way and for my installations and repairs to be workman like. It's a great feeling having clients calling in for work, and asking for me to attend, as well as going back to an installation from 7,8, whatever years ago and being proud to say 'I installed that'. I live alone, I don't have any kids, when I die all I'll leave behind is the electrical installations I've installed over the years, that and the hundreds of times I've written my name and the date behind patresses, DBs, under floors... Does anyone else do that BTW? I often note the weather as well.

Very Nice.
Just wondering....
Does that say armour on the sleeving of that cpc?
It is written on the conductor attached to the banjo. The CPC is wrapped in G/Y tape as I ran out of sleeving large enough to fit. :(
How have you attached to armouring, is there a banjo on the outside of the enclosure?
There is a gland and the banjo is on the outside of the enclosure, connected with brass nut and bolt, outside so all brass in contact, better than a possibly rusty steel locknut in contact with the banjo.
Also, where is the 2nd neutral for circuit 2 - cant see it in the bar or is it just hidden behind?
It's not in the neutral bar it is in the neutral terminal on the RCBO. It is hidden behind the line conductors.
Are the neutrals in ferrules? if so why have you used them? Aesthetics?
Yes, the neutral flyleads from the RCBOs are in ferrules. I have used them as I shortened them to save space in the enclosure, which of course involves cutting off the manufacturers ferrule. Fine and very fine stranded conductors must be fitted with a ferrule unless the terminal is specifically designed to accept such a conductor, the flyleads are very fine stranded so ferrules must be used.
The neutral for circuit 4 looks larger than the live? in fact they all look the same size, is there a joint somewhere behind the breakers?
The neutral flyleads from the RCBOs are all the same size, the circuits neutral is connected to the RCBO it's 1.0mm, no joints in the consumer unit.
What is the 45A breaker supplying?, is it a hot tub or something?
It's 40A (CGD don't do a 45A for some reason) for an instantaneous undersink water heater.
Not being critical at all - nice work, obviously some care and attention to detail

Cheers

Andy
Thanks for the comments!
 
@Harwoodandy - Not sure what you are viewing the picture on regarding freddo's post but most of your questions are answered in the PIC, I can understand missing the flylead on the SWA on a phone sized screen but asking if the N are Ferruled when its more than obvious they are has confused me a little as did a few other questions you asked did o_O
 
just seen freddo's pic . lovely job there. that could be used as a "how to do it right" in a training programme.
 
that and the hundreds of times I've written my name and the date behind patresses, DBs, under floors... Does anyone else do that BTW? I often note the weather as well.
I've written the date under floors before (why I don't know!), but bizarrely never come across such scribblings. Perhaps it's only me & you freddo, that do it o_O
 
@Harwoodandy - Not sure what you are viewing the picture on regarding freddo's post but most of your questions are answered in the PIC, I can understand missing the flylead on the SWA on a phone sized screen but asking if the N are Ferruled when its more than obvious they are has confused me a little as did a few other questions you asked did o_O

Thanks for the input....
My question was to the OP - when viewing on my phone screen its rather difficult to tell, if it was more than obvious I wouldn't have asked would I. Perhaps you are easily confused? Perhaps I should just ask you in future?
 
@Harwoodandy - Not sure what you are viewing the picture on regarding freddo's post but most of your questions are answered in the PIC, I can understand missing the flylead on the SWA on a phone sized screen but asking if the N are Ferruled when its more than obvious they are has confused me a little as did a few other questions you asked did o_O

Thanks for the input....
My question was to the OP - when viewing on my phone screen its rather difficult to tell, if it was more than obvious I wouldn't have asked would I. Perhaps you are easily confused? Perhaps I should just ask you in future?
Our prices are quite a bit higher than most of the local electrical companies, partly because there is a number of us as well as office staff, but I hope we offer value for money. It is sometimes difficult to compete with the huge number of local one-man-bands, some of which seem to get away with poor and non-compliant work, but we have enough work to keep us busy.

I have no intention of letting standards slip, or giving in to laziness, its f***ing hard and a slog sometimes, but I keep pushing myself to make sure every box is ticked. I'm an ugly scruffy git in real life, my car is old and needs a wash, and my hair is long and untidy and I'm certainly not perfect when it comes to electrical work. I still have to refer to the regs books and guides now and then and I've made my share of mistakes! But I still aim to work in a professional way and for my installations and repairs to be workman like. It's a great feeling having clients calling in for work, and asking for me to attend, as well as going back to an installation from 7,8, whatever years ago and being proud to say 'I installed that'. I live alone, I don't have any kids, when I die all I'll leave behind is the electrical installations I've installed over the years, that and the hundreds of times I've written my name and the date behind patresses, DBs, under floors... Does anyone else do that BTW? I often note the weather as well.


It is written on the conductor attached to the banjo. The CPC is wrapped in G/Y tape as I ran out of sleeving large enough to fit. :(

There is a gland and the banjo is on the outside of the enclosure, connected with brass nut and bolt, outside so all brass in contact, better than a possibly rusty steel locknut in contact with the banjo.

It's not in the neutral bar it is in the neutral terminal on the RCBO. It is hidden behind the line conductors.

Yes, the neutral flyleads from the RCBOs are in ferrules. I have used them as I shortened them to save space in the enclosure, which of course involves cutting off the manufacturers ferrule. Fine and very fine stranded conductors must be fitted with a ferrule unless the terminal is specifically designed to accept such a conductor, the flyleads are very fine stranded so ferrules must be used.

The neutral flyleads from the RCBOs are all the same size, the circuits neutral is connected to the RCBO it's 1.0mm, no joints in the consumer unit.

It's 40A (CGD don't do a 45A for some reason) for an instantaneous undersink water heater.

Thanks for the comments!

No worries

That makes sense - I agree with you on the ferrules, easy to have stray strands - hadn't realise they were RCBO's, viewing on a small screen, thanks for the reply

Andy
 
Thanks for the input....
My question was to the OP - when viewing on my phone screen its rather difficult to tell, if it was more than obvious I wouldn't have asked would I. Perhaps you are easily confused? Perhaps I should just ask you in future?
I wasn't trying to get your back up here and maybe you read my post the wrong way but I would appreciate you don't reply with an attitude as regardless whether it be to staff or any other members we frown on such responses, it helps no-one and usually drags the thread downhill, I asked because I was genuinely confused, and no, I'm not easily confused, been on this forum for over 7yrs and and an 11,000+ post count so I tend to have got the jist of how and why people post and respond, I even viewed it on my phone before I posted and it was very clear hence why I queried it. TBH I was rather expecting you to say you left your glasses somewhere or you were looking at a different pic by mistake as the thred is full of them.. that's why I commented to check you were seeing the same pic really.
You have answered what I asked and thats is all I was enquiring about, thankyou. :)
 
I wasn't trying to get your back up here and maybe you read my post the wrong way but I would appreciate you don't reply with an attitude as regardless whether it be to staff or any other members we frown on such responses, it helps no-one and usually drags the thread downhill, I asked because I was genuinely confused, and no, I'm not easily confused, been on this forum for over 7yrs and and an 11,000+ post count so I tend to have got the jist of how and why people post and respond, I even viewed it on my phone before I posted and it was very clear hence why I queried it. TBH I was rather expecting you to say you left your glasses somewhere or you were looking at a different pic by mistake as the thred is full of them.. that's why I commented to check you were seeing the same pic really.
You have answered what I asked and thats is all I was enquiring about, thankyou. :)

You started it :p:p:p
 
About time I made a contribution here, and this little gem from yesterday was asking for it. What's going on is:
* short T&E spurring off a socket on the inside
* connecting to a flex cable (there is actually a screwed connector under that tape, I was surprised not to find it just twist-&-taped) in the outside terminal
*from there clipped to the wall close to the ground without any protection
* and yes that's right, the flex is 2 core, NO EARTH, going to an outside socket!
IMG_20161017_114848[1].jpg IMG_20161017_114831[1].jpg IMG_20161017_114914[1].jpg
 
I'll probably get shot down as viewing on phone but.....

That looks like PVC covered Micc to me?, it has the shrouds over the glands? The black sleeving looks like the old BICC stuff 1 & 1.5mm and that looks like the seal just poking out from the box entry in the 3rd pic?
The box in pic 1 is tagged to earth so continuity would be through copper cable sheath if it was pyro.
Having said that there is no conductor to earth pin on socket so presumably relying on cover screws for earth, an earth tail seal would have done the job nicely.

Andy
 
I'll probably get shot down as viewing on phone but.....

That looks like PVC covered Micc to me?, it has the shrouds over the glands? The black sleeving looks like the old BICC stuff 1 & 1.5mm and that looks like the seal just poking out from the box entry in the 3rd pic?
The box in pic 1 is tagged to earth so continuity would be through copper cable sheath if it was pyro.
Having said that there is no conductor to earth pin on socket so presumably relying on cover screws for earth, an earth tail seal would have done the job nicely.

Andy

I'd completely agree with you here; MICC.

The OP of this bit of thread could do with some further education on cable types.
 
I'll probably get shot down as viewing on phone but.....

That looks like PVC covered Micc to me?, it has the shrouds over the glands? The black sleeving looks like the old BICC stuff 1 & 1.5mm and that looks like the seal just poking out from the box entry in the 3rd pic?
The box in pic 1 is tagged to earth so continuity would be through copper cable sheath if it was pyro.
Having said that there is no conductor to earth pin on socket so presumably relying on cover screws for earth, an earth tail seal would have done the job nicely.

Andy
Guess it's hard to tell from the picture, will work on keeping those hands steady, but that's definitely not micc, just a flex like you'd find on an appliance. I tested before taking that old crap off, sure enough no earth regardless of where I stuck the probe around that outside socket, and the IR... Thought for a moment that my tester wasn't working, tested for IR again using the continuity setting on my tester and got 1076 ohms between L and N. The IR for L-E and N-E was 134 mega ohms (if I remember right, something around there), so wasn't hard to guess where the bad L-N IR was from!

I'm guessing whoever did that old thing had seen it done properly with micc and thought dressing up with glands and shrouds just made it look pretty? Anyway not a big job to put a new socket (the right way up!) in place with conduit back to the inside socket. Not a perfect IR afterwards, 120 something mega ohms, but that's connected to the rest of the old circuit so I'll take it.



P.S. GMES that junction box is hilarious! :D
 
I totally don't have time to post this as I'm in the middle of fixing a breakdown but I just came on here for a quick break way from the job and post #708 & 715 fried my brain. How can that not be MI? Granted the few inches under the socket are a bit pale and flexy-looking but, er, stub slv over flex cores c/w PVC tag on one of them? Anyone advanced enough in the trade to have stub in their back pocket and to teach flex to stay straight as a die between P-clips, will know that a socket-outlet needs a CPC.

Pics of the flex and stuffing glands (I can see the hex under the shroud) or it didn't happen.

And 'IR' of 1076Ω is an appliance or a charred wreck. 230²/1076=50W, the heat of two average soldering irons. Nothing there got that hot, PVC cable would have been on fire and burnt through.
 
Can you see what's wrong guy lol,
some kitchen fitter had fix his sockets to the floor for some strange reason for his appliences. Then fitted his kitchen over the top of of them all before realising that he'd wired his sockets arse first. So instead of redoing his sockets he decided to swap line and neutral in the db.

20150131_090619.jpg
 

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