SparkyChick

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Hi all,

I've been trying to find fans that don't require fusing down according to the instructions.

Can anyone recommend any please?

These are just replacements and I'm trying to keep the cost down for the customer so if I can avoid extra work to install fuses etc. I'd like to.

Thanks

SC
 
Are they run off a 6A lighting circuit? I know it doesn't answer your question, but EDIT I think I misremembered - 3A fuse operates quicker than 6A MCB for overload currents - 7A would blow a 3A fuse in 0.05 seconds but would take 3600 for the 6A MCB to trip.
However although there's no need to follow the manufacturer's instructions, life is probably easier further down the line if you don't have to explain that.
 
Last edited:
The only time I fuse down a fan is if it’s spurred from a ring circuit. If it’s fed from a lighting circuit then it’s usually protected by a 6 amp mcb so as already said the mcb will most likely trip before the fuse ever blows
 
Hi - here's one I used a while back. It's Vent Axia, but I don't think all their 100mm models have their own internal fuse like this one, which is why I took a pic .

IMG_1102.JPG
 
I took this 3A issue up with icon .... needless to say they wouldn’t budge ....... 6A MCB versus 3A 1362 ..... just goes to show how little manufacturers know .. and understand
I thought the same from memory but after checking it doesn't seem to apply to overload current. Do manufacturers specify a 1362 fuse for overload protection eg shorted windings as well?
 
Thanks chaps, got some choices :) I'm liking the S&P/Envirovent ones. Guess I'll just have to skip the part in the instructions about having an isolator with 3mm contact gap... that would be the main switch in the CU ;)
 
... Guess I'll just have to skip the part in the instructions about having an isolator with 3mm contact gap... ;)
Shouldn't be a problem, as fan isolators should meet this. Anything with the symbol nicely shown on the pic will be ok, so will plenty of others. It may be possible to find a 3 pole fan isolator for sale that doesn't meet the standards listed in Table 537.4 , but I hope not.

IMG_1222.JPG
 
Thanks Wilko (and Andy) for linking the fan isolators... as I say, I'm trying to avoid any changes to the fixed wiring.
 
Hi TJ - these are made as 2 separate units, so you can bring unswitched L to the fuse then take Lfused to the fan (via one isolator pole), another Lfused to the light switch and back to fan (via next isolator pole) to give Ls and N (via 3rd pole) as usual. Ha - where's a good drawing?
 
Hi TJ - these are made as 2 separate units, so you can bring unswitched L to the fuse then take Lfused to the fan (via one isolator pole), another Lfused to the light switch and back to fan (via next isolator pole) to give Ls and N (via 3rd pole) as usual. Ha - where's a good drawing?


Ah...I see :). Only good for new install then or otherwise making wiring changes to accommodate it.
 
I know they're pricier but S& P are good fans. Quiet and superior extraction on 4 inch vent. 5 inch ones not cost much more for twice the extraction rate too..
I always tend to fit these as first choice now..
 
Thinks those only fuse the permanent line though?......
Is that correct? I don't know.
I may be wrong but, without testing, something tells me it could be dangerous......the fan doesn't run on yet the unit is still live with the switch in 'on' position.
In other words, the fuse isn't fully isolating the unit.
 
No, if switched off the there is nothing live on the fan/load supply side, just like a DP switch. Only line is fused and isolated by the switch when you wire one - as per the diagram manufacturers usually supply with their fan instructions
 

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SparkyChick

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Extractor fans that don't need a fuse
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Electrical Tools and Products
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