Discuss Gas Cooker conked and electrical cooker replacement in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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As already stated whilst forum is happy to help the DIYer it has to draw the line at step by step guidance. This task is way out of your comfort zone and the pic in #51 demonstrates this because the back box with the block connectors floating about in it is no longer earthed. Because you have interfered with the existing wiring you now have an rcd tripping with no idea as to why so I suggest you reinstate what you have altered and call an electrician.
Needs must, there is a pandemic on and not allowed to bring others in, moreover its turkey time soon.

Not sure your analysis is on the mark as rewired it with a bit of 3core and RCD was fine. I suspect the Neutral and Earth were touched in first attempt (which I understand trips RCD).

(PIC ATTACHED) It don't look pretty, I assume I need a bit of neutral sleeving, perhaps wrap the terminal block up in insulation tape, and feed the connecting wire through the back box hole instead?

Just hoping its connected okay and experts on this group are happy with it - as have an oven to order. So very happy and thankful if its gets a thumbs up with any changes needed?
 

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Dying of Covid is nothing we can do about on this forum, dying from electrical shock is ;-) Good suggestion, I can fit a fly lead but looks like its been discussed quite a bit and seems not required by the regs as earthing happens through the lug for recessed back boxes (@ 2:22). Looks more applicable for surface mounted boxes.
earthing back boxes was made optional around 2005 under the 16th.however, most of us prefer to earth them for the simple reson that if the faceplate is removed for any reason, you lose the earth through the faceplate oins so the back box could become live if a fault developed.
 
earthing back boxes was made optional around 2005 under the 16th.however, most of us prefer to earth them for the simple reson that if the faceplate is removed for any reason, you lose the earth through the faceplate oins so the back box could become live if a fault developed.
It looks like it is going to be blanked hence it needs an earth. Many electrcians to the exact same thing.
 
Thanks for past advice. Washing machine ordered for tomorrow (does not come with a wire) and assume there is calculation for a 2.3KW oven to determine the wiring requirement (2.5mm T&E would do the job I assume for 10A)?

Also those darn screws are not going into the backbox lugs easily and holding the front socket in, not sure if this is another newbie question - but if the back box is a bit warped is the suggestion to re-tap the lug thread or use something to fix it (removing the backbox would be a headache).
 
Most domestic sparkies carry a 3.5mm thread cleaning/reforming tool in their toolbox.
Ta - figured as much.

Almost there, just a query about lead installation from oven to wall FCU...
-2300W / 230v = 10Amps current expected through the electric oven lead at max.
-Understand that 2.5mm T&E does 24Amps circa (but not sure about unburied).
-Fuse in FCU would need to be 13Amps

If I have some spare 2.5mm T&E - this going to be okay for unburied oven lead to FCU?

Should I go for 4mm if unburied?

(BEKO manuals are flippin' useless and googlin is ambiguous).
 
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