Never found a gland yet that is fully waterproof and always get one or two that let the water in.
Always difficult when people want them recessed without somewhere to A: make them accessable and B:waterproof.
Hence why i suggetsted the resin y or branch joints i think there called as its such small access with the little uplights to make off.
I don't do that many of this type of lighting as its so problematic and you just know your going back time after time to sort them out.
I've tried all sorts of joints over the years and the only one that worked first time was a resin one. Unfortunately with the weather we have and the nature of block paving not having any drainage other than what its given, that water is going nowhere but down your light hole.
 
Hi I=p/u.

The method that works best for me with this type of install is to run a strong tube, maybe water pipe from each light position back to a central point.

When the paving is laid and the holes cut, buy fittings with 1 gland that allow you to replace the cable with another of the required length.

Pull your cable in, fit the lights, take the tubes into an adaptable box with suitable IP rating, fit your transformer or whatever, job done. ( always leave a loop of cable under the fitting or in the box so you can pull the fittings out without having to disconnect.

This way you don't have to worry about underground joints, each fitting can be directly rewired if required, and you won't get many breakdowns.
 
Last edited:
Did some lights last year but were in york stone. But client went with square fittings made by aroura. These were easyer for builder to cut out for as they had more of a lip to cover up the hole underneath. Got builder to fit drainage pipe (100mm) in ground to about half a meter then ran in swa's. Fittings were pre wired gu10's there was just enough room to make connections off into wiska boxes filled with "magic gel" and fit down into pipe below when gel had set. Customer was more than happy with the installation.And as far as I'M aware all is working ok.
 
I would strongly recommend led as halogens will keep blowing and you will be changing them constantly
 
i would like all connections at the fittings and no boxes anywhere , the lights do say ip67 which should handle water but im sure your guys experience tells diff story.... im thinking 4 inches of pebbles before sand below lights for little drainage and maybe silicone light and mounting sleeve so hole doesnt fill up as someone suggests
Hi I=p/u.

The method that works best for me with this type of install is to run a strong tube, maybe water pipe from each light position back to a central point.

When the paving is laid and the holes cut, buy fittings with 1 gland that allow you to replace the cable with another of the required length.

Pull your cable in, fit the lights, take the tubes into an adaptable box with suitable IP rating, fit your transformer or whatever, job done. ( always leave a loop of cable under the fitting or in the box so you can pull the fittings out without having to disconnect.

This way you don't have to worry about underground joints, each fitting can be directly rewired if required, and you won't get many breakdowns.
 
i would like all connections at the fittings and no boxes anywhere , the lights do say ip67 which should handle water but im sure your guys experience tells diff story.... im thinking 4 inches of pebbles before sand below lights for little drainage and maybe silicone light and mounting sleeve so hole doesnt fill up as someone suggests

I have installed the type of light you are going to use and they are ideal for the purpose. In my post above - the adaptable box I mentioned, I fit above ground, on the nearest wall etc.
 
yh she wants no boxes on walls, she a customer who hates seeing cables... im going to ring ansell lighting at 9 oclock to ask if their glands are rated at 1p67 whicj they dont look to be .... but maybe they are lol
 
i am greatful for your input, men

i have all the quals you need to be a spark but as you know experience is worth its weight
 
I would strongly recommend led as halogens will keep blowing and you will be changing them constantly

I would say this is a must, more so if they have young kids. try standing on one with bare feet. you won't be there long before you scream.
A woman had these fitted all round her dinning room floor and her kid stood on one and their skin stuck to the glass.
 

OFFICIAL SPONSORS

Electrical Goods - Electrical Tools - Brand Names Electrician Courses Green Electrical Goods PCB Way Green 2 Go Pushfit Wire Connectors Electric Underfloor Heating Electrician Courses Heating 2 Go
These Official Forum Sponsors May Provide Discounts to Regular Forum Members - If you would like to sponsor us then CLICK HERE and post a thread with who you are, and we'll send you some stats etc

Advert

YOUR Unread Posts

Daily, weekly or monthly email

Thread starter

i=p/u

Arms
-
Joined
Location
Northern Ireland
If you're a qualified, trainee, or retired electrician - Which country is it that your work will be / is / was aimed at?
United Kingdom
What type of forum member are you?
Practising Electrician (Qualified - Domestic or Commercial etc)

Thread Information

Title
Recessed Lights In Brick Paving ...
Prefix
N/A
Forum
Lighting Forum
Start date
Last reply date
Replies
24

Advert

Thread statistics

Created
i=p/u,
Last reply from
needasparks,
Replies
24
Views
19,259

Advert

Back
Top