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Discuss Recessed Lights In Brick Paving ... in the Lighting Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

i=p/u

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Arms
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i have asked to quote for 8 x 36mm diameter recessed lights in brick paving..

i havent carried this out before , is there anything i need to be aware of in reguards to cutting the brick paving perfectly .

just any tips or expierence you have had with doing this... i.e does it take longer to cut the bricks than expected what kind of diamond core bit do i need to add in to price ....

just anything guys that you think will help id be greatful.



it will be stainless steal for this coastal area, IP68

24vdc they seem to come in not 230v? where do you put the transformer? 230v seems easier

does the mounting sleeve just cit upto the paving brick finish height and the fitting slips in then?,
 
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S

sedgy34

if its exhisting block paving mate you need to add a cost in for someone who can make good of the paving after you,preferably someone who does it
 

i=p/u

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Arms
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #3
no not exisiting, the ground is about 300mm below finshed level , so time enough to pipe
 
I would get somone else to lift and re-lay the pavers after you get your cables in. Saves any fuss etc.
You could mount the transformer somewhere indoors beside a FCU. And use some 2 core flex for wiring the lights.
As for cutting the pavers, a good diamond core cutter and plenty of patience required
 

i=p/u

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Arms
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #5
just she wants a price by today , always putting me under pressure, bettter go to work, but any ideas or tips il be back at lunchtime to gather up.

thx for now..
 
S

sedgy34

no not exisiting, the ground is about 300mm below finshed level , so time enough to pipe
why didnt you say that then!!! easy peasy run your cables paver will cut blocks to suit the lights. just make sure the paver has a light to look at so he knows whats going in, or you need a 40mm diamond core drill to cut light out in the block
 

i=p/u

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Arms
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #7
ok digging into this a little more, the small 36mm lights do not have a loop in/out system, just pre-,ade up leads with 2m flex which means connections, which im not keen on ..

anyone know where you get small recessed lights with a loop system .??????
 
G

Guest55

ok digging into this a little more, the small 36mm lights do not have a loop in/out system, just pre-,ade up leads with 2m flex which means connections, which im not keen on ..

anyone know where you get small recessed lights with a loop system .??????
You're better off using the pre-wired fittings that are factory sealed.
Trying to waterproof your own connections at each light is not easily done with small lights
and being called back 6 months later to fix waterlogged lights and digging up said drive isnt going to go down to well lol.
 

i=p/u

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Arms
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #9
But the factory fitted ones only come with 2m flex , so will need extended anyway hmmm.
You're better off using the pre-wired fittings that are factory sealed.
Trying to waterproof your own connections at each light is not easily done with small lights
and being called back 6 months later to fix waterlogged lights and digging up said drive isnt going to go down to well lol.
 
Hi,

Having put half a dozen lights in the pathway at the front of my house I looked at numerous options before settling on GU10 based LED's with a diameter of just over 100mm.

The smaller diameter lights put out too little light in my opinion. The 36mm 24v lights from TLC were 4 LED jobs and weren't that bright - also don't have a sleeve for mounting in concrete from what I remember. They do a single led 1w mains job with a sleeve At 39mm. I used these in some alcoves to good accent effect but not sure how good they would be in a driveway.

Interested why you were specifying IP68? Assuming sensible drainage would iP67 not be acceptable?

If you are looking to daisy chain lights then the 100mm ones were about as small as i could find that had 2 glands and even then working with 2 cables in the amount of space available wasn't easy.

As others have said get the paving contractor to drill the bricks as they snap very easily, if you have to go the junction box route you can get mini man hole covers that take the block paving and could cover a junction box again the paving contractor should be able to sort these.

Cheers

Paul
 
I would Agree if pre made off then try to stick with it. As block pave whatever you decide will have to be permanent joint really as no matter what form you use would involve blocks out later if ever a problem so I would try to go resin y joints, at least then there would be no water ingress and last forever
 

i=p/u

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Arms
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #12
Yeah I agree 100mm ip67,gu10 fitting seem to be the best option meaning no joints underground
 
S

sedgy34

I recently did a newbuild and installed some led lights in a new drive I looped in and out in swa using y boxes each box was next to the light under the lawn, I had a call saying they tripped out initially I thought water but when I had a look the paver damaged the flex on one if the lights, good job the damage was on the lawn side so I could fix it!
 

i=p/u

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Arms
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #14
That's why I would like all connections at fittings and run high tuff in coped . Cheers for your input to now
 

i=p/u

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Arms
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #15
so if i go with ip67 recessed lights which have 20mm loop in,loop out glands and are in a sleeve, are these glands ip67?
 
Never found a gland yet that is fully waterproof and always get one or two that let the water in.
Always difficult when people want them recessed without somewhere to A: make them accessable and B:waterproof.
Hence why i suggetsted the resin y or branch joints i think there called as its such small access with the little uplights to make off.
I don't do that many of this type of lighting as its so problematic and you just know your going back time after time to sort them out.
I've tried all sorts of joints over the years and the only one that worked first time was a resin one. Unfortunately with the weather we have and the nature of block paving not having any drainage other than what its given, that water is going nowhere but down your light hole.
 
Hi I=p/u.

The method that works best for me with this type of install is to run a strong tube, maybe water pipe from each light position back to a central point.

When the paving is laid and the holes cut, buy fittings with 1 gland that allow you to replace the cable with another of the required length.

Pull your cable in, fit the lights, take the tubes into an adaptable box with suitable IP rating, fit your transformer or whatever, job done. ( always leave a loop of cable under the fitting or in the box so you can pull the fittings out without having to disconnect.

This way you don't have to worry about underground joints, each fitting can be directly rewired if required, and you won't get many breakdowns.
 
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Did some lights last year but were in york stone. But client went with square fittings made by aroura. These were easyer for builder to cut out for as they had more of a lip to cover up the hole underneath. Got builder to fit drainage pipe (100mm) in ground to about half a meter then ran in swa's. Fittings were pre wired gu10's there was just enough room to make connections off into wiska boxes filled with "magic gel" and fit down into pipe below when gel had set. Customer was more than happy with the installation.And as far as I'M aware all is working ok.
 
S

sedgy34

I would strongly recommend led as halogens will keep blowing and you will be changing them constantly
 

i=p/u

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Arms
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #21
i would like all connections at the fittings and no boxes anywhere , the lights do say ip67 which should handle water but im sure your guys experience tells diff story.... im thinking 4 inches of pebbles before sand below lights for little drainage and maybe silicone light and mounting sleeve so hole doesnt fill up as someone suggests
Hi I=p/u.

The method that works best for me with this type of install is to run a strong tube, maybe water pipe from each light position back to a central point.

When the paving is laid and the holes cut, buy fittings with 1 gland that allow you to replace the cable with another of the required length.

Pull your cable in, fit the lights, take the tubes into an adaptable box with suitable IP rating, fit your transformer or whatever, job done. ( always leave a loop of cable under the fitting or in the box so you can pull the fittings out without having to disconnect.

This way you don't have to worry about underground joints, each fitting can be directly rewired if required, and you won't get many breakdowns.
 
i would like all connections at the fittings and no boxes anywhere , the lights do say ip67 which should handle water but im sure your guys experience tells diff story.... im thinking 4 inches of pebbles before sand below lights for little drainage and maybe silicone light and mounting sleeve so hole doesnt fill up as someone suggests
I have installed the type of light you are going to use and they are ideal for the purpose. In my post above - the adaptable box I mentioned, I fit above ground, on the nearest wall etc.
 

i=p/u

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Arms
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #23
yh she wants no boxes on walls, she a customer who hates seeing cables... im going to ring ansell lighting at 9 oclock to ask if their glands are rated at 1p67 whicj they dont look to be .... but maybe they are lol
 

i=p/u

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Arms
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #24
i am greatful for your input, men

i have all the quals you need to be a spark but as you know experience is worth its weight
 
I would strongly recommend led as halogens will keep blowing and you will be changing them constantly
I would say this is a must, more so if they have young kids. try standing on one with bare feet. you won't be there long before you scream.
A woman had these fitted all round her dinning room floor and her kid stood on one and their skin stuck to the glass.
 

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