what to use as a junction box to extend all wires to new con unit location?

a-z electrics

a-z electrics

-
Hi all,
I am extending the house cables to fit a new con unit about 50cm away from original fuse box, 10-way including 2 showers, max cable size 6mm.
Whats the best way of doing it? I thought of using wago connectors, correctly rated and housing it all in original fuse box housing, minus fuses etc. It is in a very awkward place under a kitchen unit but accessible. I'm fitting new con unit on t'other side of unit wall which is the end of the run.
Cheers..
 
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adaptable box, with din rail. fit line or wago din rail connectors. don't use the earth type connectors or testing will be a right pain. think a post by nicblake from ages ago has a pic of one he did.
 
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a-z electrics said:
Hi all,
I am extending the house cables to fit a new con unit about 50cm away from original fuse box, 10-way including 2 showers, max cable size 6mm.
Whats the best way of doing it? I thought of using wago connectors, correctly rated and housing it all in original fuse box housing, minus fuses etc. It is in a very awkward place under a kitchen unit but accessible. I'm fitting new con unit on t'other side of unit wall which is the end of the run.
Cheers..
Click to expand...

You probably have the answers you need above, so I just want to ask......your location states Essex but your text stinks of Yorkshire!lol
Are you from the best part of England????
 
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like this with a din rail.


GWBX763.JPG
 
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ayjay said:
ok to do it proprely u need to extend all cables
no joining its easyer
all this bloo--y wago stuff
only 5wwo use that cr-p
Click to expand...

How do you extend cables without joining? Am I missing summat ere?
Or are you saying you would never join a cable? Would you charge the customer for a full rewire then? Daz
 
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IMAG1285.jpg
Here s a little one i did. It was connecting through armoureds from a voice alarm amp rack out to the speaker lines if anyone is interested.

I always try and use slotted trunking in my adaptable boxes because i can usually make it neater thats way :)
 
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Tidy Max said:
View attachment 20523
Here s a little one i did. It was connecting through armoureds from a voice alarm amp rack out to the speaker lines if anyone is interested.

I always try and use slotted trunking in my adaptable boxes because i can usually make it neater thats way :)
Click to expand...


you mean that you can hide the rough bits! :74:
 
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mechelec said:
Would have been better if terminal markers/numbers had been used and wiring diagram stuck inside. Makes fault finding much easier. Still a nice neat job and good solution though.
Click to expand...
He did mate. In a later post in the thread he stated that he had left a full diagram inside the box :)
 
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Lol now I see what you mean phil ,not a problem with Admin guys using any pic I may put on here , thanks for the credit Phil, was wondering where this pic was lost it on my PC , yes mechelec it was fully labelled right down to where each circuit was supplied from, also I installed two large grommits round the cable entries to
 
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HandySparks.
Really neat job, well done !!!!!
Just a quick question, it looks like you used a stripping tool (I may be wrong) for the outer insulation of the T&E (there appear to be clamp marks on the outer sheath).
If so, what make are they and can you recommend them?
 
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Don't care how many circuits in there its should be neat , why is every one so rushed in just getting the job done , bit of care and time for a job makes a neater job then its easier for any future works ,1 would have loved to have done that one pyro as well ,mmmm
 
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Hi there go easy on me I'm only a apprentice :cyclist:
image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
This was my little baby lol it's from about a year ago looking back I could have made it neater. The reason for the jb was we removed some lighting controllers and there db's in a plant room and fed them from a new db we installed. Any constructive criticism would be great for future reference
regards
adam
 
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babylonsBurning said:
Just a quick question, it looks like you used a stripping tool (I may be wrong) for the outer insulation of the T&E (there appear to be clamp marks on the outer sheath).
If so, what make are they and can you recommend them?
Click to expand...

Yes, where there's space, I use these CK 95001:
C.K Automatic Wire Stripper - 495001

They're great for 1.0 and 2.5mm² T&E, both the sheath and insulation. Very occasionally the sheath will take the insulation off with it, but only if it's very poor stripping cable.

They need a bit of space to work, so if things are tight I just use a small knife.
 
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nickblake said:
Don't care how many circuits in there its should be neat , why is every one so rushed in just getting the job done , bit of care and time for a job makes a neater job then its easier for any future works ,1 would have loved to have done that one pyro as well ,mmmm
Click to expand...

Redid the lot, move it above the ceiling and remade of all the pyros as the muppets had damaged the existing ones. Nice little job. Never did a after picture unfortunatly
 
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Nice one spinks always keep a camera with you not only for the good but the bad and the ugly , the locking nuts are great for the pyro in the situation its in
 
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a-z electrics

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