Which consumer unit

[Humdrum]

Hello

I'm new here!

My house built 1993 has an original plastic 10 way Tenby Electrical CU.(see photos)

I want to replace it with an 18th Edition compliant CU. This should ensure there will be no problems when selling the property which we hope to do within the next 5 years.

I plan to replace the unit myself and then use Part P register Electrician to test and certify the installation.

My question is which is the best metal-clad board? and is it best to use all RCBO's?

I also need to install one of those Ring doorbell units which use a din rail mounted transformer which looks like it takes 2 ways. I also need to include an existing circuit for 2 power showers that are currently wired through a separate Crabtree unit.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Best regards
Humdrum.

 

[Baddegg]

I’d find an electrician who is willing to certify 3rd party works before you change it mate......

 

[Strima]

Why do you feel the need to install a new board?

 

[Mike Johnson]

To answer your question and to future proof the work? go with an all RCBO board, but I would say it's not really a DIY job.

 

[DPG]

As above - I don't see the point in changing the board just because you may sell the house.

 

[davesparks]

I plan to replace the unit myself and then use Part P register Electrician to test and certify the installation.

My question is which is the best metal-clad board? and is it best to use all RCBO's?

You need to involve the electrician who will be signing it off at the planning stage of the job, this is a requirement of the third party sign off schemes.

When you say best do you mean the best quality board on the market, the cheapest, or the best trade off between price and quality?

 

[Pete999]

To answer your question and to future proof the work? go with an all RCBO board, but I would say it's not really a DIY job.

The OP states is a retired Electrician Mike.

 

[Mike Johnson]

Ah Ha so he probably knows a thing of two, thanks for the diligence in following my posts/mistakes.

 

[HappyHippyDad]

I think you will actually have more trouble selling the house by carrying out the work as (unless you have a electrician friend willing to break the rules by certifying and notifying it) the work will not get notified so you may not have the relevant paperwork which the solicitor is FAR more likely to want than seeing a metal CU.

Are there any other reasons you want to change the CU?

 

[Pete999]

Ah Ha so he probably knows a thing of two, thanks for the diligence in following my posts/mistakes.

We all make them Mike me more than most

 

[MJPD29]

Rcbos and spd would be ideal. Dont buy a cheap board. You'll regret it

 

[Humdrum]

I’d find an electrician who is willing to certify 3rd party works before you change it mate......

Yes good idea - thanks.
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Why do you feel the need to install a new board?

Well I might be wrong but doesn't the 18th edition say all boards now need to be metal/fireproof to be compliant?

 

[DPG]

Yes good idea - thanks.
[automerge]1583228718[/automerge]

Well I might be wrong but doesn't the 18th edition say all boards now need to be metal/fireproof to be compliant?

If a new board is installed then yes. It doesn't mean everyone has to rip out perfectly good boards and change them for metal ones.

 

[Humdrum]

As above - I don't see the point in changing the board just because you may sell the house.

In the last house I sold in 2014 the Solicitors surveyor raised an issue about the old Wylex fuseboard and its 3036 rewireable fuses. I had to pay a local Part P certified Electrician £500 to change the board for one with mcb's and then test/certify the installation before the buyer would accept it!
[automerge]1583229413[/automerge]

You need to involve the electrician who will be signing it off at the planning stage of the job, this is a requirement of the third party sign off schemes.

When you say best do you mean the best quality board on the market, the cheapest, or the best trade off between price and quality?

Thanks - I will contact a few local Electricians and get their ideas!

Yes best quality, but also most suitable, like cable entry knockouts in the back, wide choice of rcbo's, spd's. I'm thinking maybe Schneider, Hager, MK?

 

[Baddegg]

Did an eicr this week and a property someone was buying, the surveyors said the electrical system looked old and needed changing.....same thing rewire-able board with push in mcbs......all circuits tested fine except outdoor power but that was more to do with the install method,

 

[Strima]

Well I might be wrong but doesn't the 18th edition say all boards now need to be metal/fireproof to be compliant?

That's only for newly installed boards, existing are fine unless damaged etc.

 

[Baddegg]

Regs aren’t retrospective

 

[pc1966]

I recently went with a Wylex board that has SPD and used their RCBO mostly because they are 2-pole switching.

They present a load on the live busbar at all times (from the RCD electronics, I presume), so not only would an insulation test there show the SPD (if you don't pull them out) but you see the RCBO at all times. However, both L & N RCBO outputs are fully isolated so the more important tests later on any circuits insulation / isolation can be done without removing conductors.

Personally I would always use RCBO, to me having half you home go dark from a fault on just one circuit is too much hassle! Also you quickly find any muppet who used a borrowed neutral before you get a nasty surprise one day...

I know some recommend only MCB on cookers due to some being leaky if the elements have absorbed moisture, but as they often have a 13A socket for a kettle I feel some RCD protection is wise. My 2p worth again.

 

[telectrix]

installed this beasty yesterday. tried the toolstation 3 pole connector as discussed on another forum. tug test fine, presently on a 16A MCB, so not fully loaded. noticed that on the meter the Nin and Nout were reversed. not my problem, and afaik, the N's are just linked in side the meter anyway. the seal fairy had been before. ......

 

[Pete999]

installed this beasty yesterday. tried the toolstation 3 pole connector as discussed on another forum. tug test fine, presently on a 16A MCB, so not fully loaded.

Nice Tel ar them Wagos din rail mounted. or have you made it look like they are?

 

[telectrix]

Nice Tel ar them Wagos din rail mounted. or have you made it look like they are?

nope, free in air. just got it in that position as thet was the extent of the 2.5mm T/E to a double socket out of shot.
i could post a pic with cover off, but due to most cables being short and stretched to avoid joins, it a bit of a rats nest.

 

[Mike Johnson]

Them ain't Wago's, nothing wrong with them I use them myself, came from Toolstation discussed at length on two threads and the only negative comment is that the centre lever is not striped yellow/green.

FIO Wago do make a din rail mount to carry their connectors, used those as well.

 

[telectrix]

Them ain't Wago's, nothing wrong with them I use them myself, came from Toolstation discussed at length on two threads and the only negative comment is that the centre lever is not striped yellow/green.

FIO Wago do make a din rail mount to carry their connectors, used those as well.

i just bought a green sharpie. problem solved.

 

[Pete999]

Them ain't Wago's, nothing wrong with them I use them myself, came from Toolstation discussed at length on two threads and the only negative comment is that the centre lever is not striped yellow/green.

FIO Wago do make a din rail mount to carry their connectors, used those as well.

Thanks, , ,

 

[Zerax]

the surveyors said the electrical system looked old and needed changing

Sounds like surveyors trying to justify their exorbitant fee !

 

[123]

installed this beasty yesterday. tried the toolstation 3 pole connector as discussed on another forum. tug test fine, presently on a 16A MCB, so not fully loaded. noticed that on the meter the Nin and Nout were reversed. not my problem, and afaik, the N's are just linked in side the meter anyway. the seal fairy had been before. ......

Looks like a hefty nick in your Brown cable there though

 

[telectrix]

Looks like a hefty nick in your Brown cable there though

only surface from being chucked around in the van. i did check it for any damage. that brown is 2.5mm single. quite robust insulation.

 

[123]

only surface from being chucked around in the van. i did check it for any damage. that brown is 2.5mm single. quite robust insulation.

Fair enough, but for such a short length of 2.5 single I'd probably just have chopped it at the nick. Probably just looks worse in the photo

 

[pc1966]

Yes best quality, but also most suitable, like cable entry knockouts in the back, wide choice of rcbo's, spd's. I'm thinking maybe Schneider, Hager, MK?

Anyone able to offer answers the OP's original question?

I think MK have exited the CU market, Hagar seems to be liked around these parts, but I have little experience to answer the broader question compared to most of the folk here.

 

[Mike Johnson]

The OP's original question was answered by many on page one.