Been to a quote for a job this morning. Customer has just bought the house and wanted me to quote to replace/move an old fuse board as there were 2 in the house.

On looking at the job it appears that the old unit in the kitchen is being fed from the newer unit under the stairs in MICC/Pyro, the install date on the newer board is 2011 so don't know why the original spark did not just replace it at the time.

Told the customer I will need to do a full eicr to see what needs doing in the rest of the property but the old board will need removing (which he understands) and I would need to trace the circuits to see how I can best get them back to the main board.
As there is no labelling on either board I have suggested he plays flick the switch and makes a list of which mcb switches what off to save a bit of time when I return.

I have never had the ‘pleasure’ of working with micc as I only do domestic work so my question is do I need to take any precautions when I rip it all out?

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I don't know about you, but I used to take pride in first fixing cables of all sorts, making sure they were clipped nice, entering the enclosure properly, nice an neat, now slap it in know matter, as long as it tests OK and it works, it will be OK, what has become of trafesmen and Women? all gone to pot, I know who I lay the blame on and you don't need me to explain that do you?
….and the fact that testing has been carried out, when it is, shows that it's been someone who should know better. Plenty couldn't care less....or don't know any better.
Ah! Stop moanin'! T*at's life, I suppose.
 
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….and the fact that testing has been carried out, when it is, shows that it's been someone who should know better. Plenty couldn't care less....or don't know any better.
Ah! Stop moanin'! T*at's life, I suppose.
And therein lies the crux of the problems!!!!!
 
The number of swa lash ups these days has gone through the roof.
It seems to be every other time I come across some. If they can't terminate the armour correctly it's slice a shroud because they've forgotten it.


I see regularly swa terminated via a plastic stuffing gland with all the wire strands just completely cut off at both ends and just the inner cores shoved up the plastic gland....rough as you like but if the new lot aren't shown how to fit a proper swa gland they won't bother
 
I see regularly swa terminated via a plastic stuffing gland with all the wire strands just completely cut off at both ends and just the inner cores shoved up the plastic gland....rough as you like but if the new lot aren't shown how to fit a proper swa gland they won't bother
I saw that with twenty odd bollard lights, on a long driveway to a club, not long ago. No stuffers, though, just swa's taped together in the chassis. It's disgraceful and total ignorance. Only found out after a couple had been flattened by parking experts.
 
I saw that with twenty odd bollard lights, on a long driveway to a club, not long ago. No stuffers, though, just swa's taped together in the chassis. It's disgraceful and total ignorance. Only found out after a couple had been flattened by parking experts.

If the person doing the job isn’t going to even bother using the armour and cuts it all off , wouldn’t it be better just to use hi-tiff or even rubber flex...
 
There is an argument to be made for H07-RNF in this case, the neoprene outer sheath is probably more suitable for a duct that may end up full of water than either hi tuff or swa
If it’s up to standard, fair enough but in this situation with such a long run...and I’m not even sure it’s in plastic pipe, I think I’d be going with swa, installed correctly.
 
If it’s up to standard, fair enough but in this situation with such a long run...and I’m not even sure it’s in plastic pipe, I think I’d be going with swa, installed correctly.

How does length affect the type of cable used? Your post suggested that hi tuff would be ok in a duct but tough rubber flex wouldn't, which just doesn't make sense to me. The rubber flex is likely to have the best long term water resistance if the duct fills with water, better suited to pulling in to ducts and may have slightly better volt drop characteristics.
Yes if it isn't in any sort of containment then SWA would be the best choice.
 
How does length affect the type of cable used? Your post suggested that hi tuff would be ok in a duct but tough rubber flex wouldn't, which just doesn't make sense to me. The rubber flex is likely to have the best long term water resistance if the duct fills with water, better suited to pulling in to ducts and may have slightly better volt drop characteristics.
Yes if it isn't in any sort of containment then SWA would be the best choice.
Sorry for the lack of sense Dave, but I'm talking about this installation (situation). Whose to know how secure the system is. About 30 jointing points, all involving cables through concrete and tarmac into the fittings.....no chance of any slight damage? How easy a pull in?
In this situation, swa.
The lazy sods just saved time and cash, throwing the cable in without glanding.
 
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MICC/PYRO advice please
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