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Wylex wooden back db

Discuss Wylex wooden back db in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

I can't find expanding foam on the reference method list :).

Ok so davesparks, you turn up to do a EICR, to a new build terraced house, with a fuseboard mounted on a fire rated plasterboard wall between properties, some rough b****** has hacked the back of the board out and you could physically reach into the wall with your fist, what would you code it?

My NICEIC area guy has said he deems this a code 2 ( I believe 3 is more appropriate ).....

How far do you go to correct it?, they said foam is acceptable.....putting a metal back box behind board is overkill, on a old installation anyway......
Hang on, you said it was a new build at first.
Why would you be doing an EICR on a newbuild?
Why would said newbuild have a stud work wall between it and the next door property?
It's not necessarily RAF to remove sections of the back of the CU, how else are you planning on getting the cables concealed on the way to it?
It's pretty difficult to get your fist through an open CU in my experience.
Filler foam won't be on the reference method list but are the regs an exhaustive list of every situation we find ourselves in?
Isn't a metal back box full of holes? So what additional fire rating is it going to provide? You may as well shove a colander behind it.
 
if i were the CEO of a company making expanding foam, i'd rename it builders' bodge. should boost sales.
 
If there is a hole in the wall behind the cu it's mechanically protected by the front of the cu and put your hand through the hole in the wall then more than likely you'll touch a brick wall or more plasterboard
 
Wylex never made a wooden backed CU to my knowledge, wooden framed CU's on the other hand they made literally millions of them. Never seen a new Wylex wooden framed CU with a paxoline or any other back to them straight out of the box.

I'll warrant that those old wooden Wylex CU's will hold up against fire/heat far, far longer than any Plastic modern CU. The wood used in those CU's was a pressure treated hard wood, and i don't know of anyone including myself that has seen one go up in flames, that would require the house to go up in flames first!! ....Oh and i've never seen a wooden framed Wylex CU affected by woodworm either...
 
I found a wooden framed Wylex CU that was mounted on chipboard, it had obviously! had some major problems at one fuse as the CU had a hole burnt through the back of the fuse carrier and the chipboard, however the rest of the CU was still in use without problems and the frame was untouched.
 
Fire regs still confuse me a little, must read the ESC BPG on the subject...been meaning to do so for ages.

Saying that the ESC, or whatever they are now called recommend replacing said fuse boards. I, like most on here, disagree unless other reasons prevail. New DBs are sensitive little souls compared to their hardier ancestors!! A lamp blows and a 3036 does nay flinch!

I seem to recall reading that even if there is a great big hole in the plaster board behind a DB the timber studs and noggins with the adjacent plasterboard form a fire barrier as such. May be wrong....need to read up I do...
 
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Does it not condition in terms of fire rating?

It's probably better fire rated than the plastic crap you're fitting now!!

Test it yourself - get a lump of wood the same as the cu and a bit of plastic of the same type used to make cu's and borrow your friendly plumber's blow torch and see what happens when wood and plastic meet Mr Rothenberger Turboflame.

Report your findings back to us as a valuable contribution to the forum.
 
I think it's an interesting point and worth discussing.

I think a C2 is way over the top though (unless there are signs of thermal damage), I wouldn't even put a C3 simply because it is a recognised CU and has been perfectly acceptable for many years as Archy says. But... part of form 7 does mention about the type of enclosure with regards a fire hazard (haven't got the form to hand) and wood is certainly combustible!!

You'll also find the terminal screws are properly formed and fit properly into the properly made bus bars too.
 

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