C

Cj24

Hi, just been out to look at a light which has stopped working, it's in a little cupboard and is a one way on a sw, the woman says it's worked for years but gone all of a sudden, so I tested at sw and there is 240v yet only 24 at fitting. She sed she had some downlighters put in a few weeks ago in a diff room so I'm wondering if one of the cables to this light runs past a spot light and melted because thats the only thing she has had done, if the sw is off I know you get around 20v but I joined them out at sw, I'm going back sat,
 
Hi, just been out to look at a light which has stopped working, it's in a little cupboard and is a one way on a sw, the woman says it's worked for years but gone all of a sudden, so I tested at sw and there is 240v yet only 24 at fitting. She sed she had some downlighters put in a few weeks ago in a diff room so I'm wondering if one of the cables to this light runs past a spot light and melted because thats the only thing she has had done, if the sw is off I know you get around 20v but I joined them out at sw, I'm going back sat,

Check the polarity in the room that had the downlights fitted
 
and make sure that it.s not the neutral that's lost or you might get a twinge.
 
Do you think they have got polarity wrong at a downlighter? There twist lamps so dint think polarity mattered on them and if the had wrong polarity wouldnt that have messd this other light up at the time??
 
I agree with Telex here sounds like a neutral fault did you test L to earth ,check the connections in the fitting ,lamps im assuming are GU10 , there must be a junction ox or some tapped up terminal block If thats the case JB it but chek connections
 
Yeah they are gu10's, and the woman sed they used original feeds for spots and just jb'd off for the spots, but like I say that was few weeks ago and lights only just gone, but suppose must have sumet to do with them because there the only thing they have recently been touched, so do u think it's a polarity prob at a fitting or a loose N in jb, but even without a N you still get 240V at a fitting don't you? It's proper baffling me but sure it something simple
 
if you test between L and E then you should get 230v that will confirm if its a neutral fault , you know you have 230 at the switch so realistically you need to check the connection in the JB as this is the most likley place for a fault , im putting my money that its in there
 
Thank you, I will check jb's that they have piggy backed from then cheers, fingers crossed it's just a loose N in there, it's just weird how I'm gettin 24v live to earth, cus surely u still get 240 with dodgy N or not
 

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24Volts
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