Connecting a hob

[chrissysmagicbo]

hi i would just like to know about this... have a hob which requires a cable of 4mm to hardwire to cooker switch. the fuse at board is 30amp and the shut off near the cooker is a 45amp. as i cannot find a 30amp switch. my question is, i have no idea what amp or size the original cable is although it has its own circuit, which comes from the main fuse box, is it ok to use a different size wire ie 4mm and yet the original house wiring is, say 6mm. my real question is can i use 4mm for the hob as i have no idea what cable is used coming from the main switchboard. does it matter if i use 4mm wire as suggested in the manual? hope you can understand my question, thanks for any help, chris

 

[malcolmsanford]

Yes there is no problem with you using 4mm cable for that.

You will though need to keep it below 3 metres in length.

 

[telectrix]

for the price difference you may as well use 6mm.

 

[chrissysmagicbo]

hi thanks for your help, well as the maker specifys H05 RRF 3 CORE X 4MM i will use it as stated. the set up previously was a cooker switch with a socket. the standalone cooker was hardwired into cooker switch but had a spur which went on to a double socket which had small appliances ie kettle. as this was a radial circuit??? i removed the spur. so now have just a cooker switch with socket. the oven is single with a plug and the ceramic hob is the one that must be hardwired into it. the hob is 6kw. and i have a seperate fused cooker switch that turns off the hob and oven.the hob is about 1 meter away from switch. i gather this is all in order? chris

 

[Des 56]

hi thanks for your help, well as the maker specifys H05 RRF 3 CORE X 4MM i will use it as stated. the set up previously was a cooker switch with a socket. the standalone cooker was hardwired into cooker switch but had a spur which went on to a double socket which had small appliances ie kettle. as this was a radial circuit??? i removed the spur. so now have just a cooker switch with socket. the oven is single with a plug and the ceramic hob is the one that must be hardwired into it. the hob is 6kw. and i have a seperate fused cooker switch that turns off the hob and oven.the hob is about 1 meter away from switch. i gather this is all in order? chris

Are you suggesting fused as ,"at the consumer unit",or local ?

 

[chrissysmagicbo]

I mean there is a fuse just for this supply on fuse box of course and also a fuse in the cooker switch which is about a meter away from hob and cooker. hope this is what you are asking. please ask away if you dont understand i know i dont explain myself very well. so cable comes into kitchen from fuse board that is where i have the fused cooker switch. then i have a cable which comes from the fused cooker switch and ends at the original "cooker switch with a socket" which is accessable. the oven is plugged into this and i will hardwire the hob into it. i thought that it would be better to have a fused cooker switch which i can turn off after use. previously the cable went straight into the cooker switch which wasnt fused and also had spur running from it. thanks chris

 

[Engineer54]

Do they make a fused cooker connection switch?? Can't say that i've ever seen one!!

 

[malcolmsanford]

The fused cooker switch seems to be a bit of a strange animal

It's not something like this is it

 

[chrissysmagicbo]

hi yes thats it. thought it would be best as i can switch off at night. is it ok? chris

 

[Guitarist]

I think he is saying that the 6mm goes through an old single-way 30A switched/fused isolator before going to the cooker switch plate.

 

[Guitarist]

Chrissy, I hope you are not feeding your 30A cooker supply through a 13A SFU as in the photo above....

 

[malcolmsanford]

I mean there is a fuse just for this supply on fuse box of course and also a fuse in the cooker switch which is about a meter away from hob and cooker. hope this is what you are asking. please ask away if you dont understand i know i dont explain myself very well.

so cable comes into kitchen from fuse board that is where i have the fused cooker switch. That is the picture I posted I guess Chris

then i have a cable which comes from the fused cooker switch and ends at the original "cooker switch with a socket" which is accessable.So from the swich you go into a cooker switch

the oven is plugged into this and i will hardwire the hob into it.That mate is where if I read everything right we have to stop, as you can't do that.

i thought that it would be better to have a fused cooker switch which i can turn off after use. previously the cable went straight into the cooker switch which wasnt fused and also had spur running from it. thanks chris

I can only advise now Chris that you may have things slightly confused, and it is difficult to explain things on a forum I agree. But the very fact that your confusing things, and may be telling us what you are is because really the work is a little beyond you.

I can only advise for safety sake you ask for help. post your general location and i'm sure one of the lads could come round and give you a quote for the work you need done

 

[chrissysmagicbo]

hi yes its a double pole 45amp switched fused isolator which in turn goes to a cooker switch with socket. it ends there. a separate circuit is it ok? chris

 

[chrissysmagicbo]

well would it be better to just have hob running to cooker switch and plug oven into an ordinary socket ?

 

[trev]

If the oven is 2kw+ it's reccommended to be on a dedicated radial mate

 

[Engineer54]

It's got to the point where a photo or two is required, because i don't know of any 45A switch fused isolator, that would be used for a cooker circuit!! Not only that, the fact that 45A fuse is greater than your CU OCD!! Pretty pointless really!!

 

[trev]

As Malcolm said earlier Chrissy, I reckon it's time to post up your rough location. By the time we have reached a solution for you you could have had a spark come out and assess the job properly to tell you what is needed and even maybe have carried out the work

 

[chrissysmagicbo]

hi this is the original cooker switch which was over the worktop and the original cooker was wired into this. chris

 

[Andy78]

What led you to think it had a fuse inside it ?

 

[chrissysmagicbo]

no, this pic above does not have a fuse in it. it is the new single cooker switch that has a fuse

 

[PC Electrics]

It is clear you are in way above your head here. You are confused over simple accessory descriptions and the purpose of those accessories as well as their ratings along with the ratings of your appliance and how they all inter-relate.

For your own safety and that of others in your household, call an electrician. This is a simple job which will take about an hour to complete and cost you no more than about £50.

Post your location if you'd like someone from here to get in touch.

 

[trev]

It is clear you are in way above your head here. You are confused over simple accessory descriptions and the purpose of those accessories as well as their ratings along with the ratings of your appliance and how they all inter-relate.

For your own safety and that of others in your household, call an electrician. This is a simple job which will take about an hour to complete and cost you no more than about £50.

Post your location if you'd like someone from here to get in touch.

Well I was trying to be delicate

 

[malcolmsanford]

:waving::leaving:

 

[chrissysmagicbo]

hi well i dont know why i cannot just repeat what was done b 4 unfortunately i am a pensioner and dread the cost of a electrician which i might not be able to pay. so thanks for all your help chris

 

[PC Electrics]

Well I was trying to be delicate

Indeed you were, but our friend clearly hadn't taken the hint. Sometimes people with a false perspective of their own capabilities simply need telling straight, especially when they could be putting themselves or others in danger.

 

[telectrix]

hi well i dont know why i cannot just repeat what was done b 4 unfortunately i am a pensioner and dread the cost of a electrician which i might not be able to pay. so thanks for all your help chris

as PCsaid, should be a max. cost of £50, providing it is straightforward. any sparks worthy of the name would tell you beforehand if there were problems entailing greater cost.

 

[PC Electrics]

hi well i dont know why i cannot just repeat what was done b 4 unfortunately i am a pensioner and dread the cost of a electrician which i might not be able to pay. so thanks for all your help chris

The vast majority of tradesmen are honest decent citizens just like yourself. Many will give a reduced rate to those on a pension who clearly cannot aford 'full rate'. Or since the job doesn't require any certification or notification it could be done for about £35 cash. It would still be a proper job and entirely safe, giving you full peace of mind.

Are you really so hard up that you'd risk your life for 35 quid? Or have you been sucked in by all those TV programmes into believing all tradesmen are just conmen?

Here in Lutterworth, we have a substantial, 'mature' population. Many of whom call on my services. I am often recommended from one pensioner to another. There are many like me up and down the land, why not ask amongst your friends or at the local Age Concern (I'm known by them too).

 

[Geordie Spark]

These Rogue Traders type of programmes really boil my wee wee. I would be happier if just now & then they'd broadcast a programme about the many Good Traders that really DO exist ..... just to redress the balance.

 

[chrissysmagicbo]

hi im at a loss wish i could find a electrician to help me. i live in norfolk near bury st edmunds anyone out there??

 

[trev]

hi im at a loss wish i could find a electrician to help me. i live in norfolk near bury st edmunds anyone out there??

There's a thread in either business related or electricians unite, the guy who started it is round your way I think. Give him a PM he seems like a decent guy