D

Darkwood

Right ... Just been nudged to set this up by Paul.M and sounds a good idea following recent threads I've done in the Arms..

Rules....No Offensive material... edit if required before posting as this is the public arena.
Anything to do with the trade or in and around it ...H&S pic's welcome.

Beware plumbers!!!.jpg

I've posted this a few times and this is at a mates house following a kitchen refirb several yrs ago. :omg_smile:

Beware plumbers!!!.jpg
 
Went to Tesco today...
Was wondering what type of cable this is, and is it immune from chafing on steelwork?
WP_20180318_09_52_08_Pro[1].jpg

Perhaps that cable tie is sufficient strain relief?
Clearly the other wires waving about are not live...
 
Don't tell the heating engineers forum, but on a loft conversion I'm doing, I've done the electrics and added 4 radiators to the guys heating system. Customer is an old school friend and he said he was having trouble getting someone.... I didn't touch the gas... it was only on the flow and return pipes
 
I was told when an apprentice that the worst thing that happens if a plumber gets things wrong is that you get a little wet....
That's why electricians get paid more.

I try to turn my hand to anything. A real DIY Dave, lol. Only thing I wont touch is gas, but that's down to legislation, not my choice.

There are so called professionals in every trade that I wouldn't trust in my house
 
here's a good one, this was the MDB for a warehouse complex with 20 warehouses, 3 office blocks, on the right is the Utility supply incomer cabinet.
6 weeks solid work to replace and fix this up.
Adama switch room 001.JPG

We replaced with a 250amp 250 TPN eaton load centre, steel trunking cable managment, new SDBs an ATI for generator, prior to this the loacl electrican removed the knife edge fuses and put the cable from the generator ( one hanging down) into the top holder of the KE fuse holders with a pliers.
To protect the utility supply all we could do was put 12mm perspecx sheets affixed to the dexion frames. Utility provider considered it safe in its orignal state and would not replace it with the unit we bought for them.
 
Deleted as no pictures!

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Not electrical but I’m on the job so that counts.
Skirting board taken off to reveal the nail had punctured the central heating pipe but NOT caused any leak. Whether it was a tight puncture and sealed itself with lime scale is unknown but no damage seen in the area.
How sweet is that!
 
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Lucky escape there! When I got a flat a couple of years ago the "plumber" was finishing off installing a shower, and put the outside frame on and off he went...thursday night before the september weekend, so no-one was about until I arrived on the next tuesday to meet all my downstairs neighbours paddling about in wellingtons. He had driven a screw into the cold supply pipe for the shower and it had leaked all weekend...
Certainly got to meet the neighbours!
I could go on about his reluctance to use pipe inserts with push-fit connectors...but I'll save you the angst!
 
Don't tell the heating engineers forum, but on a loft conversion I'm doing, I've done the electrics and added 4 radiators to the guys heating system. Customer is an old school friend and he said he was having trouble getting someone.... I didn't touch the gas... it was only on the flow and return pipes

The original heating installation would have been specified and designed given the number and size of radiators that were installed. Did you take that into account before adding the extra 4 rads? We go ballistic when amateur electricians overload a previously sound installation based on their little bit of knowledge. Just saying.
 
The original heating installation would have been specified and designed given the number and size of radiators that were installed. Did you take that into account before adding the extra 4 rads? We go ballistic when amateur electricians overload a previously sound installation based on their little bit of knowledge. Just saying.

Good point, however;-
The customer had already replaced the boiler previously after original broke down. He asked for a bigger model knowing that the loft conversion was on the cards. The heating engineer at the time had done the measurements and given him sizes of rads to buy.
And I'm not an amateur electrician... I'm a professional electrician.
Amateur at everything else. - Just saying
 
Maybe...
IDC totally wrong shape for those...
Anyway, not an expert on that...or on anything, but insulation displacement may be fine for 5V, but anything more and I would be worried!
Funny, but those IDC things are so prone to working loose, just a wiggle or two and contact is lost...and when you see them stacked up...
 
Anyway, not an expert on that...or on anything, but insulation displacement may be fine for 5V, but anything more and I would be worried!

Maybe you've run into a lot of badly fitted or poor quality IDC terminations. Broadcast and comms facilities use hundreds of thousands of them because they have a very low failure rate. You can have a wall full of Krone 237A's and be pretty sure there will not be a bad connection anywhere. I have never seen one lose contact with 'a wiggle or two' when correctly fitted.

IDC is also in wide use for power cables and works fine for that purpose again when correctly sized and fitted. We have thousands of heavily loaded circuits wired with IDC DIN terminals and haven't had a fault yet.
 
Thank you for that Lucien...I simply was not aware of the situation, and my interest has been awakened! I love to hear about stuff I've not met before, and actually, thinking about it, I can readily acknowledge there must be billions of connections in comms relying on IDC. I expect my own ineptitude with IDC on telephone systems is the reason for my wiggle-free problems! I do have a neat inserter though...maybe time I learned how to use it properly! Off to do some research...:)
 
bear in mind that the IDC tools for telephone connections and Data points are different.

That's not strictly true Tel. 99% of everything you find in this country will be Krone LSA plus, i.e. the 'normal' ones. It's very rare to find the '110 block' type. More likely on very, very old equipment, or cheap tat from china perhaps.

How do they differ

The Krone ones have the IDC slot at 45 degrees...

KroneLSAplus.jpg


The '110' type are at 90 degrees and need a different tool.

110IDC.jpg


It's so rare that you'll need the '110 type', there's no point even forking out for a medium priced one, just get the 99p jobby, it could get you out of a pickle some day!!
 
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i have both the krone and the 110 in a tool with interchangeable tips. had it for donkeys years.
 
Well, I've learnt something already today:)
I have a ghastly plastic IDC thingy that came with an extension socket and lasted for 4 wires. It is still useful cos it props up one leg of my workbench.
The other gadget is a bit like a Swiss Army Knife, with a hooky bit, an adjustable stop/spring trigger thingy...I watched a youtube video, so I'm going to get that gadget out today and do some practising...
Worry not...I won't be posting my telephone JB on Show Us Your Installs!
(Partly because it will be boring in the extreme, and partly due to the poor grammar in that forum title...)
 
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Gawd bless them Electrical engineers -
Been to an ex neighbour who moved to a bungalow own by said EE and his wife. He passed away 6 years ago so she sold up (to move to a bigger house? Mmmh don’t know where all the sense in that household was!)
So extract fan in bathroom not working. I notice proximity sensor, had power at the fan but he had disconnected the fan wires. I wanted to trace the path as there was a JB in the sensor hole but too large to pull through. Up in the loft had to take up tongue and groove around pipes etc. Long and short of it was that there were junction boxes that I removed and replaced with neat Hagers but the cherry on the cake was when I got to the jb for the sensor.
Poor bugger did a bad termination that didn’t bite through the insulation and didn’t know it, the fan wouldn’t switch off so he disconnected it.
I was the hero of the day and drank copious amounts of tea and cake.
 
Good point, however;-
The customer had already replaced the boiler previously after original broke down. He asked for a bigger model knowing that the loft conversion was on the cards. The heating engineer at the time had done the measurements and given him sizes of rads to buy.
And I'm not an amateur electrician... I'm a professional electrician.
Amateur at everything else. - Just saying

I never implied you were an amateur electrician, I was referring to Joe Public who are often the reason for many posts on here when they try to do electrical work themselves. Good to hear my points had already been considered and covered.
 
Called to a job where they had only partial power since 10pm previous night.
This had taken out one of the RCD's on a split board.

Prime example of a DIY hero installing his own shower.
Supply neutral terminal had loosened causing heat.
It had been like this for 6 years before finally going out with a bang, while DIY hero was in the shower at the time.
IMG_4691.JPG
IMG_4692.JPG
IMG_4693.JPG


Luckily there was enough spare on the cables to pull through and reterminate into a new pullcord switch.
 
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20180328_160502.jpg
Don't do a lot of domestic but found this today on a periodic. Saw some downlights over a mini bar and made a bee line for them. Apparently the householder has paid an electrician to do this although I have convinced her this was no electrician and have disconnected it in the board. Further concerns are that this is connected from an old immersion supply which is now concealed behind some fitted wardrobes, the mind boggles.
 

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