I wouldnt wire the hob direct to kitchen circuit even if it comes with a plug as the regs advises against this but its rather vague ,just states cookers ,hobs and ovens should be on its own dedicated circuit unless less than 2 kw .its just trying to reduce the amount of load through your sockets.if it was a portable 2.9 kw hob then you could plug it in anywhere so it's not very clear in my opinion although I have stuck to it as good practice.you are allowed to apply diversity to your cooker circuit as the elements switch on and off at different times frequentlyI already have a 3kw double oven hardwired with 6mm twin and earth, direct to the consumer unit. Can I also add a 2.7kw hob to the same circuit?
Alternatively, can the hob be hardwired to the kitchen circuit?
I already have a 3kw double oven hardwired with 6mm twin and earth, direct to the consumer unit. Can I also add a 2.7kw hob to the same circuit?
Alternatively, can the hob be hardwired to the kitchen circuit?
I already have a 3kw double oven hardwired with 6mm twin and earth, direct to the consumer unit. Can I also add a 2.7kw hob to the same circuit?
Alternatively, can the hob be hardwired to the kitchen circuit?
Yeh that would def don't take it of sockets lol.you could possibly still be ok .the diversity could still be ok but the size of breaker would need to stay at 32 amps unless you know exactly how cable is run through the fabric of your house.it could be buried in 3 feet of glass wool or be a particularly long runI just realised that the hob power is 7,400 watts. Does that make a difference?
Is this an induction hob ?I just realised that the hob power is 7,400 watts. Does that make a difference?
Also some ovens will give the total load but that can never be reached as you can't have the grill and oven on at same time but would depend on model .mine is 3.4 kw but using clamp metre dosnt get anywhere near that regardless of what setting its onHow did it go from 2.7 to 7.4kW?
The 7.4 is the absolute maximum…. For hobs, we apply diversity as not all 4 rings will be on at the same time.
Could you send a picture of circuit breaker or fuse that controls cooker .cheersThis is from the specification details.
Burner Power Range - 2.2 to 3.7 KW
Electrical Connection - 7400 Watt
Power Requirements - Needs Hard Wiring By An Electrician
I suspect that's because the Electrician who wired up the cooker forced an MK breaker alongside the Contactums.Looks like your consumer unit has had some dodgy alterations.
So not a long run then .you have a socket on your cooker switch .Best bet is to get an electrician in to work out the diversity and if you can replace the cooker switch with a normal switch unless of course you need it /are using it and that would help with loading .diversity is just a factor that seems to work and has done for years but only for normal use .if your using socket for a kettle say and your cooking xmas dinner there's always a chance the 32 mcb will trip.best to get an electrician in to have a look .they may be able to run in a new cable for oven although your rcd side of board is full .they may be able to fit a different type of rcbo on other sideThe cable is a direct 8 metre run under floorboards
I think that's a sticker problem rather than an RCD problem. The RCD has the L terminal on the left, N rightHe's done more than that the RCD is now in the wrong place, it should be on the left. I would be getting that looked at.
I think at this rate I'm needing Doc, for my blood pressure! I have written a reply with screenshot.Where in Uk? Maybe a forum member can help you out.
IP address suggests near Norwich? Is that right?
It all really depends on the load of both the oven and hob together, compared with the supply circuit size.
There is an equation, called diversity, that means the load is much less than the maximum of both added together.
Even if it is slightly more, the worst that would happen is the circuit breaker would trip.
Was it AEGs own engineer?
I’ve just connected a new 5 ring AEG to an existing circuit with a double oven. No problems at all.
With a username like Snow White…. I guess you’re feeling a little Grumpy just now??
Sorry
Hmm.. are we talking a proper cooker connection plate, which is rated to the maximum load, or a simple joint box, which may not be.
Hope this helps!
Yes I think so....Engineers/ Electrician stated if I had a new plug & play hob they would cut plg off & wire directly into 13amp wall fuse box? That leaves oven on its own in floor junction box. Other option was to have new circuit traced back to fuse box costing thousandsI would get rid of the junction box and fit a dual outlet plate mainly because it’s better that a that junction box that’s thrown on the floor.
Proper flex instead of the twin and earth would be a better job.
The manufacturer states it should be installed by an electrician you just need to find one
Is that a fused spur on the left ?
I can’t tell from the pic
Yes I think so....Engineers/ Electrician stated if I had a new plug & play hob they would cut plg off & wire directly into 13amp wall fuse box? That leaves oven on its own in floor junction box. Other option was to have new circuit traced back to fuse box
That's quite a conservative way of applying the diversity.They certainly have NOT applied diversity, whatever their little report says.
Taking the diversity equation from earlier in this thread, (message #5)
For each appliance, work out total amps....
Hob
7300/230 = 32A
Take 10 off, and add 30% of remainder.... 30% of (32 - 10) = 6.6
Add the 10 back on... 16.6A
Oven
5300/230 = 23A
30% of (23-10) 3.9
Add the 10.... 13.9A
Total load with diversity is 16.6 + 13.9 = 30.5A
THANK YOU TO ALL THE KIND LEKKIES WHO RESPONDED TO MY POST .Yesterday my 5900w & induction hob were deemed safe to wire into the the white oval circuit board together. No tripping as of yet!I see what you mean, but if the circuit's RCD protected, it can't be. Could do with a better pic though.