I already have a 3kw double oven hardwired with 6mm twin and earth, direct to the consumer unit. Can I also add a 2.7kw hob to the same circuit?

Alternatively, can the hob be hardwired to the kitchen circuit?
 
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It should be fine if it's just the double oven and hob with no socket outlet on a 32amp breaker.
 
I already have a 3kw double oven hardwired with 6mm twin and earth, direct to the consumer unit. Can I also add a 2.7kw hob to the same circuit?

Alternatively, can the hob be hardwired to the kitchen circuit?
I wouldnt wire the hob direct to kitchen circuit even if it comes with a plug as the regs advises against this but its rather vague ,just states cookers ,hobs and ovens should be on its own dedicated circuit unless less than 2 kw .its just trying to reduce the amount of load through your sockets.if it was a portable 2.9 kw hob then you could plug it in anywhere so it's not very clear in my opinion although I have stuck to it as good practice.you are allowed to apply diversity to your cooker circuit as the elements switch on and off at different times frequently
I already have a 3kw double oven hardwired with 6mm twin and earth, direct to the consumer unit. Can I also add a 2.7kw hob to the same circuit?

Alternatively, can the hob be hardwired to the kitchen circuit?
I already have a 3kw double oven hardwired with 6mm twin and earth, direct to the consumer unit. Can I also add a 2.7kw hob to the same circuit?

Alternatively, can the hob be hardwired to the kitchen circuit?

so the total load of both can be reduced by using the following method
The first 10 amps of total load then 30 percent of remaining load and if you have a cooker switch with a socket you need to add a further 5 amps onto this.but because it's 2 seperate appliances as appose to one unit it needs to be applied separately to both units but the difference is minimal due to the small loads involved.so you could easily add the hob to your oven circuit but I would refer to the manual of hob and see what requirements it needs for over current protection ie mcb or 13 amp fuse.without knowing how cable is run in ie glass wool etc and size of mcb for oven I would guess the 6mm twin and earth will be absolutely fine to run both but you would need to get an electrician in to link them to same outlet as there would be a bit of alterations required .check your mcb if it is only a 16 amp it would be no use it would ideally be a 32 amp .your total wattage for both appliances is fairly small as most hobs are far greater than 2.7kw ,more like 5 kw but you would need it checked out by an electrician
I just realised that the hob power is 7,400 watts. Does that make a difference?
Yeh that would def don't take it of sockets lol.you could possibly still be ok .the diversity could still be ok but the size of breaker would need to stay at 32 amps unless you know exactly how cable is run through the fabric of your house.it could be buried in 3 feet of glass wool or be a particularly long run
 
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How did it go from 2.7 to 7.4kW?

The 7.4 is the absolute maximum…. For hobs, we apply diversity as not all 4 rings will be on at the same time.
 
How did it go from 2.7 to 7.4kW?

The 7.4 is the absolute maximum…. For hobs, we apply diversity as not all 4 rings will be on at the same time.
Also some ovens will give the total load but that can never be reached as you can't have the grill and oven on at same time but would depend on model .mine is 3.4 kw but using clamp metre dosnt get anywhere near that regardless of what setting its on
 
This is from the specification details.

Burner Power Range - 2.2 to 3.7 KW
Electrical Connection - 7400 Watt
Power Requirements - Needs Hard Wiring By An Electrician
 
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He's done more than that the RCD is now in the wrong place, it should be on the left. I would be getting that looked at.
 
The cable is a direct 8 metre run under floorboards
So not a long run then .you have a socket on your cooker switch .Best bet is to get an electrician in to work out the diversity and if you can replace the cooker switch with a normal switch unless of course you need it /are using it and that would help with loading .diversity is just a factor that seems to work and has done for years but only for normal use .if your using socket for a kettle say and your cooking xmas dinner there's always a chance the 32 mcb will trip.best to get an electrician in to have a look .they may be able to run in a new cable for oven although your rcd side of board is full .they may be able to fit a different type of rcbo on other side
 
if you're using the socket for a kettle say and your cooking xmas dinner there's always a chance the 32 mcb will trip.

We have never used the socket so that shouldn't be a problem.
 
Please help...Had an AEG Double Oven Built-under, go wrong. AEG sent replacement oven & when engineers went to swap over, they stopped. I'm now left with an unconnected oven. They are saying Currys installation team shouldn't have connected induction hob & oven on same circuit , & for safety they would not do it. They said I need a new hob that can be wired into 13amp wall socket. Currys say the two can be wired together & do not want to take responsibility. I'm left with a ruined Easter!
 
It may be ok to have both hob and oven on the same circuit, as you can see from the thread you've joined. However, if the engineers won't do it then you'll have to get an electrician out.
Why don't you give your approx location and someone on the site might be near by and happy to come out today... double time I expect though. Unlikely, but worth a shot.
 
Where in Uk? Maybe a forum member can help you out.
IP address suggests near Norwich? Is that right?


It all really depends on the load of both the oven and hob together, compared with the supply circuit size.
There is an equation, called diversity, that means the load is much less than the maximum of both added together.

Even if it is slightly more, the worst that would happen is the circuit breaker would trip.

Was it AEGs own engineer?


I’ve just connected a new 5 ring AEG to an existing circuit with a double oven. No problems at all.



With a username like Snow White…. I guess you’re feeling a little Grumpy just now?? 😁


Sorry
 
The electrician who came to connect the hob put a JB behind the oven and wired both units together. He did not alter the circuit breaker or touch the wall switch.

I did query the JB and he (rather shirtily) told me it was perfectly acceptable. I have been using both units, sometimes both at the same time, for a couple of weeks now with no apparent problems.
 
Hmm.. are we talking a proper cooker connection plate, which is rated to the maximum load, or a simple joint box, which may not be.
 
Thanks to all ,who have bothered to reply, I have attached two pieces of report to hopefully clarify the situation we're in!
 

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Where in Uk? Maybe a forum member can help you out.
IP address suggests near Norwich? Is that right?


It all really depends on the load of both the oven and hob together, compared with the supply circuit size.
There is an equation, called diversity, that means the load is much less than the maximum of both added together.

Even if it is slightly more, the worst that would happen is the circuit breaker would trip.

Was it AEGs own engineer?


I’ve just connected a new 5 ring AEG to an existing circuit with a double oven. No problems at all.



With a username like Snow White…. I guess you’re feeling a little Grumpy just now?? 😁


Sorry
I think at this rate I'm needing Doc, for my blood pressure! I have written a reply with screenshot.
 
They certainly have NOT applied diversity, whatever their little report says.

Taking the diversity equation from earlier in this thread, (message #5)

For each appliance, work out total amps....

Hob
7300/230 = 32A
Take 10 off, and add 30% of remainder.... 30% of (32 - 10) = 6.6
Add the 10 back on... 16.6A

Oven
5300/230 = 23A
30% of (23-10) 3.9
Add the 10.... 13.9A

Total load with diversity is 16.6 + 13.9 = 30.5A


That was just a quick count up, and my collegues may have a different method.... but whatever.... theres nothing wrong with doubling up the hob and oven on a 32A 6mm supply
As long as the circuit is RCD protected, theres no reason not to connect.

How you convince them, however, i dont know
 
Hope this helps!
 

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The AEG DOUBLE OVEN Model Number is DEU73111 HOB IS AEG IKB64401F-B
 

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I would get rid of the junction box and fit a dual outlet plate mainly because it’s better that a that junction box that’s thrown on the floor.

Proper flex instead of the twin and earth would be a better job.

The manufacturer states it should be installed by an electrician you just need to find one 😁

Is that a fused spur on the left ?
I can’t tell from the pic
Yes I think so....Engineers/ Electrician stated if I had a new plug & play hob they would cut plg off & wire directly into 13amp wall fuse box? That leaves oven on its own in floor junction box. Other option was to have new circuit traced back to fuse box costing thousands 😪
 
Yes I think so....Engineers/ Electrician stated if I had a new plug & play hob they would cut plg off & wire directly into 13amp wall fuse box? That leaves oven on its own in floor junction box. Other option was to have new circuit traced back to fuse box

As #31
 
They certainly have NOT applied diversity, whatever their little report says.

Taking the diversity equation from earlier in this thread, (message #5)

For each appliance, work out total amps....

Hob
7300/230 = 32A
Take 10 off, and add 30% of remainder.... 30% of (32 - 10) = 6.6
Add the 10 back on... 16.6A

Oven
5300/230 = 23A
30% of (23-10) 3.9
Add the 10.... 13.9A

Total load with diversity is 16.6 + 13.9 = 30.5A
That's quite a conservative way of applying the diversity.
Taking the oven and hob as one 'cooker': 7300 + 5300 = 12600. Divide by 230 gives just under 55A
Take 10 off = 45A. 30% of 45A = 13.5A. Add the 10A back on gives a diversified total of 23.5A.

Either way you do the calculation, there's no reason why they both can't be connected to the existing supply.

Edit: Just read the specs, and it's 5900W for oven, not 5300W, so diversified load is just over 24A.
 
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I took the diversity factor from #5, and from other threads about it, if its a combined load with 2 appliances, you take off 20A to begin with... ie 10A each.

What i didnt take into account was a possible socket on the cooker switch, which adds 5A to the final result.


Can we take care that we are replying to Snow White's enquiry from message #21, and not Santa's from the beginning.... different sizes of appliances.
 
It's Snow White that my post's aimed at.
In an ordinary domestic kitchen I see no reason to treat a 600mm hob fitted directly above an oven as anything other than a slot in cooker. With a large double oven, fitted into a taller unit than normal worktop height, I would gravitate towards your method.
 
Apologies to Snow White, this is a question aimed at other members of the forum - I don't think I'm understanding the first picture correctly.
In the pic, is the 60A junction box wired correctly? Apparently incoming power on the left.
All depends on how the other end is wired I guess!

1745082704830.jpeg
 
I see what you mean, but if the circuit's RCD protected, it can't be. Could do with a better pic though.
THANK YOU TO ALL THE KIND LEKKIES WHO RESPONDED TO MY POST .Yesterday my 5900w & induction hob were deemed safe to wire into the the white oval circuit board together. No tripping as of yet!
 

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Hardwiring an induction hob
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