Kitchen plinth lights

[Sparky_Ben]

Has anyone installed these kits you can get for kitchen plinths consist of upto 10 led lights in the set i have seen, Comes with a 230v 13amp plug then a transformer down to 12v,

the reason i ask is a friend of mine wants these installed in his new kitchen but wants under cupboard lights linked into these from a normal 1 way switch mounted on the wall.

My idea for this wud be to take my 13amp feed for the led's then take that to a 4x4 adaptable box under the cupboards then take a switch feed from this box to my light switch and then my feed for the halogens down to this box also, tapping off the switch live side of the connections.

still learning this is my view on how this could be done?

any ideas welcome.

 

[Johno]

Even though it's a 13A plug top, they only use a few mA (or there abouts lol), I just put a single socket in a cupboard working off light switch and label it up PLINTH LIGHTS ONLY.

 

[Sparky_Ben]

the reason for my adaptable box idea is because he wants them both linked to the switch so that when he has dinner parties he can have the under cupboard and plinth lights on only. and also would it be ok if they were both low voltage to take then both off the switch live side of my connector into the own transofrmers which are supplied as part of the kit. I think it would be ok?

 

[Johno]

Sorry ben, you've lost me a bit. If it were me I would put a 2 gang switch on the wall 1 switch for under cupboards and 1 for plinth lights, and obviously the supply to the plinth light socket must be 230V.

 

[Sparky_Ben]

ok i will try explaining. he wants both the plinth lights and under counter lights to run off 1 switch. My idea was to have a low level socket to which i would get my 230v feed from then take my switch feed from here to the light switch.
In my adaptable box i would have my 230v permanent live from socket and my switch live, to this i would connect both supplies for my plinth and under cupoboard lights to the switched live.

does that make sense?

 

[Johno]

Are you using an FCU as light switch? And is the socket circuit ok to tap off? Are you getting involved with something you don't understand yet

 

[Sparky_Ben]

these are all things i havnt checked yet, he has only asked if i would do it, therfore i am working out a plan to work out a way how it should be done or to conform if my idea would work, no a normal light switch? and i would assume for the moment that it is ok to tap off, if not i obviously wouldnt use it.

 

[Johno]

Sorry if I sound like a *** but never assume anything when it comes to existing wiring!

So you want to come out of a socket, to an ad box, to light switch and to the lights, are you going to fuse down?

 

[Sparky_Ben]

i will yes, that is my plan. if it sounds ok with you, i am just an apprentice jjust never had anything like this to do, yeah i wont assume that was just for arguement sake just to see if my idea to do it would work,

 

[bugsy]

Take your supply from the ring via a FCU and fit a wireless switch ---------simples

 

[Smugley]

I did one last week - exactly like Johno described - two gang switch on the wall, lighting circuit feed (L+N) to the switch, then separate switched feeds down to both undercabinet lights and a dedicated socket for the LED plinth lights. Not sure why it would need to be more complicated than that. Personally I'd prefer to be able to switch both individually.