Discuss Oven with 13a plug top in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net
Original post #3 changed - forgetYou could wire a single socket into the cooker outlet plate, using suitably sized cable.
there is a plugtop on the oven , but there is no socket available unless using one above worktop which would be unsightly, there is the cooker plate connector under unit level , straight from the cooker unit above, not sure if i cut the plug off to connect into the cooker plate then 13a oven is only protected by the consumer unit fuse of 40a. reading conflicting opinions on various sites ,Not ideal as the 13 amp fuse will not be easily accessible, but I would prefer an unswitched fused connection point rather than plug and socket combination. Many ovens come with a label on the flex "do not fit plug" as so many are prone to overheating. Either way it would not be necessary to replace the mcb.
so choices are fit a 13a socket and plug it in then its protected by fuse in the plug , or fit a 13a fused dp switch, or wire straight into the cooker plate , which i dont like the idea of , but many of these sites say is perfectly okIf you replace the cooker outlet plate with an unswitched fused outlet you will not have to adjust the mcb, and you negate the use of a plug and socket, but it would make it necessary to remove the oven if ever the 13 amp fuse popped, so as said - not ideal
this is what i,m thinking as long as i can get a socket on with the 6mm cable , a lot of these sites/threads are saying its ok to wire straight into the cooker outlet as the fuse protects the cable not the oven .best option is replace the cooker outlet with a single socket. then plug oven in. MCB in CU can remain.
If its a fixed load - element only, you may get away with that, but highly likely it will have a fan so not really a fixed load.or wire straight into the cooker plate , which i dont like the idea of , but many of these sites say is perfectly ok
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I havent seen it yet my son told me over the phone he,ll show me a picture tonight , but he says it is a new build house .Just out of curiosity, what shape is the cooker isolator?
Well if its the square type, just to confuse things, and give you another option - you could replace with a two gang grid with a DP 20 Amp switch on one side, a fuse carrier on the other, and then cut the plug and connect straight into the outlet. At least the fuse would not be hidden anywhere.I havent seen it yet my son told me over the phone he,ll show me a picture tonight , but he says it is a new build house .
thought of that, now i think of it ishouldn,t new builds have the option of a socket under the units i,ll need to see his picture he said something about being unable to change outlet to a socket , he,s a gas engineer , i usually connect up these things for him ,but couldn,t attend today, so he,s got a fairly basic idea about these things ,i,ll need to wait and see.Well if its the square type, just to confuse things, and give you another option - you could replace with a two gang grid with a DP 20 Amp switch on one side, a fuse carrier on the other, and then cut the plug and connect straight into the outlet. At least the fuse would not be hidden anywhere.
Why replace the cooker switch?Replace the cooker switch above the worktop with a 13a switch fused spur, and then the cooker outlet under the worktop with a single socket.
No downgrading of the MCB required.
wrong.... 2 x 13A fuses in series. which one blows? ipf post #16 says all.Replace the cooker switch above the worktop with a 13a switch fused spur, and then the cooker outlet under the worktop with a single socket.
No downgrading of the MCB required.
Why replace the cooker switch?
Presuming it's wired in 6.0mm cable, just replace the outlet point with a socket controlled via the cooker unit.
I wouldn't fancy 6mm in and out of a fcu, either.
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