4 radial elecro ones? what values and V's and I will have a rummage around in the boxes next time I'm in the spark lab......
I prefer to use self fluxing silver solder when re-doing electrolytic caps, then I put a dod of hot melt glue on the side to fix them as well....silver solder gives a good contact with the surface on the track pad once you have the old solder off with de-soldering braid....no need for laquer spray or anything
Another thing I do is to use the (red) hot run caps (rubycon or similar) which have a good tolerance to the heat build up of the inside of a power pack....they are made for hot running, power packs are hot running in a lot of instances...standard capacitors dry out a lot more quickly...
if you ever have dried caps in a power supply and need temporary use in an emergency until your spares arrive(or your new power pack, if not keen on repairing) for example to use your laptop then an old trick is to tie the power pack (minus the mains lead if it detaches preferably) into a carrier bag, put it into the freezer for 45 minutes, take it out and it will work, after switching off, it will not work again unless you stick it back in the freezer, but as long as it is powered on it will function.....this is just a last resort fix and obviously you would be better to unplug after every use and go to the freezer trick each time round until either repaired or replaced.....don't ever let the power pack get wet...
using the freezer to chill the unit alters the electrolyte properties of the remaining electrolyte in the capacitors and brings it within functioning levels for a single use, once run up to working temperature this needs to be redone after unplugging/switching off...
45 minutes is a good time to allow the cold to work it's way through the casing and into the metalwork, components etc.....but forgetting about it and leaving too long can result in bursting of capacitors and condensation inside that can cause damage...so 45 minutes is ideal...
Daz
