Shower pull cord switch melted new one not working.

[apjmoore1990@g]

Hi had a 45amp shower pull cord switch melt on me so replaced it with a 50amp one did it all correctly but no joy and the switch doesn't come on or light up. Is it possible the shower itself has gone aswell.

Please help!

 

[Pete999]

Hi had a 45amp shower pull cord switch melt on me so replaced it with a 50amp one did it all correctly but no joy and the switch doesn't come on or light up. Is it possible the shower itself has gone aswell.

Please help!

Is it possible the original burnout tripped something in the CU?

 

[buzzlightyear]

Hi had a 45amp shower pull cord switch melt on me so replaced it with a 50amp one did it all correctly but no joy and the switch doesn't come on or light up. Is it possible the shower itself has gone aswell.

i bet you not correctly put the cables in , has the fuse dropped or fuse blown .

 

[stevethesparks]

Or possibly put burnt cable into the terminals and so not making a good connection? Did you strip the insulation back to good clean copper?

 

[Wilko]

Hi - good advice above - and I’d just add that shower circuit is high power well able to do damage if all is not well so you’ve any doubts please get help .

 

[littlespark]

If the burnt out switch was put in at the same time as the shower, I’d check the terminations in the shower as well.

You can’t go far wrong with a switch. There’s only L an N IN.... from the mains, and L and N OUT to the shower.
Double check them.

 

[apjmoore1990@g]

 

[apjmoore1990@g]

Left is load and right is supply I double checked by pulling on cable connected to the shower and still no power

 

[stewartrossinv]

The switch appears to be miswired. You have a black neutral cable on the right wired to a connection which is marked L for live. Also, way too much copper showing on the leftmost red (Live) cable, and some damaged insulation on the leftmost neutral (which may be to the wrong terminal anyway). I think you have been lucky on this occasion - you could have faced a short circuit which would trip a breaker or blow a fuse.

The most likely reason that the switch failed the last time is that the connections were either too loose or the cables were poorly cut and terminated. As poor connections are a fire hazard, please get a competent person such as an electrician in to do this for you.

 

[happysteve]

I had a case last year where I replaced a burnt-out pull cord isolator like this one. After removing the "worked" (brittle) bits of damaged cable and made good terminations on a new switch, I did an R1+R2 at the shower to confirm everything was spot on, and I got poor (high) readings.

It turned out there was another 45A DP isolator, a plate switch, downstairs in the service cupboard near the consumer unit. This had also been poorly terminated and was burnt out, and also needed replacing.

It reminded me of the importance of testing, even for a relatively simple "straight swap" maintenance job.

 

[telectrix]

View attachment 62515

and the way those sheaths are split is R.A.F.

 

[Pete999]

and the way those sheaths are split is R.A.F.

Agree the installer had nil sense of cable dressing to make life easier for him/herself