Technical advice required - metal socket or plastic? / Trunking?

[schui1024]

Hi all

Recently my company (I'm just an employee) moved into a new unit and have installed some shelving, the BigDug kind.
We've had plug sockets located above (2) each unit to provide power. This was done by the electrician so that's all good.

I need a plug socket on each shelf (5 in total), so we can connect a standard 3 pin adapter to power devices on each shelf whilst stuff is configured. They need to be individually switched hence I can't use just a single extension. It's a standard 12v 3amp tranformer that we're plugging in, much like a mobile charger.

I plan to run plastic trunking down the rear of the shelving, (to one side) secured to the shelving, and then branch off this trunking on each shelf to a socket.
As the shelf material is pretty thin mdf I'll use a strip of wood underside to screw through to secure.

My main questions are:
Do I go with plastic back box/socket and plastic trunking, or should I use metal sockets?
The items on the shelves will be small boxes and such with some techy gadgets powered up. I guess the sockets could get lightly knocked but feel that metal ones are safer?

Was planning to use 1.5mm flex rated to 16amp, and 15amp is the VERY MAX it could ever load up, though I'd expect it to be more 10-12amp.

I know with metal I have to earth the box, and I will use fire cable fixing clips in the trunking too.
Is it acceptable to use plastic trunking with metal clad sockets?
I was going to use an EK251 gland with a shroud to go from the box to the trunking on each shelf.

Essentially this is a home made 4 way extension just with a bit of space between each socket.

Does all this sound acceptable? I will get it signed off by the electrician once its installed but thought I'd check here before I go buying it all.

Many thanks in advance.

 

[Andy78]

Why not use extension leads with switched outlets ?

 

[schui1024]

Why not use extension leads with switched outlets ?

Thanks Andy for the reply -
I did look at that as an option - the issue is with accessing the switch and seeing if it's on or off.
Also the cost soon starts to add up. Going with 5 or 6 switched extensions hits over £60, without fixing or trunking.
Most are 2m which isn't enough to "daisy" chain from top to bottom, so a master unswitched would be required mid height to run from.
The final reason is by placing a single switch at the edge of the shelf, with the switch nearest the front, it's easy to see if it's on/off from the red indicator on the switch. (that and its easier to get to)
Using 4 gang extensions means the switch is behind the transformer so difficult to check.

Hope that makes sense.

Now if they made a switched Single socket that was reasonably priced, I'd use that!

 

[westward10]

If you are just an employee why has this become your problem as you do not have electrical competence . The company should use the services of the electrician who installed the other sockets.

 

[Pete999]

Hi all

Recently my company (I'm just an employee) moved into a new unit and have installed some shelving, the BigDug kind.
We've had plug sockets located above (2) each unit to provide power. This was done by the electrician so that's all good.

I need a plug socket on each shelf (5 in total), so we can connect a standard 3 pin adapter to power devices on each shelf whilst stuff is configured. They need to be individually switched hence I can't use just a single extension. It's a standard 12v 3amp tranformer that we're plugging in, much like a mobile charger.

I plan to run plastic trunking down the rear of the shelving, (to one side) secured to the shelving, and then branch off this trunking on each shelf to a socket.
As the shelf material is pretty thin mdf I'll use a strip of wood underside to screw through to secure.

My main questions are:
Do I go with plastic back box/socket and plastic trunking, or should I use metal sockets?
The items on the shelves will be small boxes and such with some techy gadgets powered up. I guess the sockets could get lightly knocked but feel that metal ones are safer?

Was planning to use 1.5mm flex rated to 16amp, and 15amp is the VERY MAX it could ever load up, though I'd expect it to be more 10-12amp.

I know with metal I have to earth the box, and I will use fire cable fixing clips in the trunking too.
Is it acceptable to use plastic trunking with metal clad sockets?
I was going to use an EK251 gland with a shroud to go from the box to the trunking on each shelf.

Essentially this is a home made 4 way extension just with a bit of space between each socket.

Does all this sound acceptable? I will get it signed off by the electrician once its installed but thought I'd check here before I go buying it all.

Many thanks in advance.

It's a business I take it and you are an Employee? get your Boss to employ an electrician to do the work, draping extension leads will work but to my mind unsfafe.

 

[littlespark]

If supplying from the sockets the electrician installed, you’ll be limited by the 13A fuse in the plug.
Switched extension leads will be acceptable, and much cheaper than buying sockets, cable and trunking. Think of the man hours involved as well.

Extension leads are also not classed as “fixed” wiring. Fixed wiring should be fixed to, or enclosed in the fabric of the building and not to a piece of furniture.

 

[schui1024]

Many thanks for everyone's advice.

I've ordered switched extensions, though annoyingly the model I really need only comes with 1.5m so I may have to use a join to extend one or two. It will work though and I don't need any sign off.

As mentioned the limit is always going to be the 13amp plug for the "chain" so there's no real issue. I know daisying is frowned upon but the load devices will be restricted to just the 12v transformers.

I will however use the screw mounts on the rear to stop them from sliding about.. better than nothing!

Thanks again

 

[westward10]

I'm intrigued how come you are solving this issue and not your bosses.

 

[ipf]

You're an employee and worried about the firm paying out £60 for a few extension leads? Get them to recall the electrician and do the job properly for a couple of hundred quid.
I wonder how much they're paying out for all these 'gadgets' they want to power?

 

[Deleted member 105166]

What are these “techy gadgets” and how have you calculated your current draw estimate? Be careful with pvc flexible cables on the style of racking you mention, which tends to have sharp edges. If it’s loads of switch mode power supplies, be mindful of the cumulative earth leakage.