Can't say as I know enough about TT to say as we don't use it

But was wondering was that a 30ma incomer and a badly earthed TT or something

Wouldn't it be the dno that decides on the supply type and provides the neutralising terminal ?
 
Between the fused cutout and main switch

Behind that board, one of the new slim types?
 
No supply cable either.
 
I'd be interested in buying the main switch

I just can't make out the prices on all those stickers ?
 
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Hmm we're hardly talking grow house here

Prob some type of apartment meter centralisation job

The cutout gets left behind and the neutralising is now left idle as ready mentioned
 
Having been on a quick fix in factory in Wakefield and on a way home for the night stopped in Maltby because the two way switch wasn't working. Nobody in, downstairs lights MCB off, so I have tested wire coming out of the switch with for continuity against the earth (AC light lit-up), but not enough to Display value and I got a hardly noticeable kick(touch) from the radiator. Apology for the stickers, but as I have went only for a switch I haven't brought the testing (locking )kit or proper condemn stickers.
Strait for the main-switch off and what I have seen when I have looked at fusebox properly:
-There is a case when access for the finger to live bush-bar is not the worse problem by far
-there is a case when 6mm meter tails are not the worse problem even if they are supplying the electric shower on 10mm cable and are connected on 100Amp incomer fuse.
-there is a case when neutral being shared between both lighting circuit is nowhere near the worse problem here. lets see if you spot the largest issue here. (description have hinted it)
Are you friends with Buzz by any chance? ?
 
I'd be interested in buying the main switch

I just can't make out the prices on all those stickers ?
As I have said, I came very badly prepared, only expecting a badly fitted two way switch.
As I have had quite few of mine locks broken this week (when locking MCBs) These stickers where in hope to scare person not to switch/reconnect it back on(I had re-routed mains cable not to connect to the bottom of the DB main switch too.).
As an update Stickers and disconnection vere not enogh as I have had a phonecall from the plasterer today asking me in Pinglish why did I not fix the kitchen light which after he switched both mains switches back on and reconnected busbar and brown cable back to the bottom of the main switch (like he used to do when being electrician in Pakistan) now declines to ever switch off...
I admit I did not work on TT system in a UK yet (except for SELV) but based on a type of wire this to me looks like TNCS That was newer finished
 
I admit I did not work on TT system in a UK yet (except for SELV) but based on a type of wire this to me looks like TNCS That was newer finished
Had it been TT it should have had an earth rod!

The ESCQR requires a reliable connection to earth to be present and distinct from neutral in a consumer's installation:
 
Now then, what is the usual depth to bury a cable on a public road?

Walking down my stree that is being resurfaced. Not idea if power or some sort of comms, but really WFT was the installer thinking? Seems to sneak in between kerb stones.
road-resurface.jpg
 
Is it free electric to power someone's house from whatever is under that cover?
 
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That's how they tend to do traffic sensor loops. Single wire goes from joint box laid in a slot cut in road with a saw, round the loop however nany times, and back ti the joint box. Then the slot is filled with bitumen.
My best guess looking at the picture is that the road is being resurfaced and by some miracle they've managed to leave that cable intact.
 
So the adaptable box is the location of the old board, the new board is out of shot but you can see how the circuits were extended. The adaptable box has the top cut out, is not earthed and obviously the conductors are unenclosed. The new board is actually a really neat job.
20211011_102220.jpg
 
thats a real shame,
could have been a job to be proud of BUT not today, maybe tomorrow I will do a better job.
 
I find it odd how you cannot see any suspension wires/rods anywhere? Surely the person/s installing this would have noticed the inadequacy of the fixings? Ive used the gripple system and it looks very slick, however if you are installing tray for larger SWAs i think threaded rods are better, for a start when youve finished you can put a ladder against the tray for pulling in further cables, you cannot with the gripple system!
 
Gave the cables a tug and they didn't appear loose yet clearly this got very, very hot.
 

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