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T

The General

Afternoon all,

I've been doing domestic electrics for about 4yrs now and although I've done a few circuit alterations on metal clad consumer units I'd say that 95% of my work has been with plastic ones. I'm totally comfortable with replacing a consumer unit and all that it entails, but I've not done any commercial or industrial work - so I've had very little exposure to the actual 'physical experience' of working with metal boxes.

I'm hoping that those more experienced than me may be able to offer some help/advice on working with a metal clad box.

For instance, are there any handy little tools which I'm going to need to buy which will make life easier?
Are there any pearls of wisdom you can offer which might save me from a lot of cursing and swearing!??

I know that often, experience can only be gained by actually doing it, but I'm hoping that I might be able to learn from good examples before I end up making too many mistakes.

Thanks in advance for your input,
 
Not much difference really, less distortion if anything when mounting on uneven surface. Some of the manufacturers haven't given enough space for surface entry, IMO, for say top entry only (i.e. number & size of knockouts). Wylex are producing a pattress, for surface mounting and rear cable entry, although I've not seen it on sale yet. TT supply, you'll need a specific cable gland for tails entry (such as Wiska Sprint). Flipping top hinge lid is a nuisance, might copyright a stay to keep it temporally open!
 
The pattress idea sounds like a clever one for rear cable entry - like you, I've also thought that the number of top knock-outs on most boxes seems a bit small.
I'd assumed that the tail entry gland was something I'd use on all installations, not just TT, but I suppose it's less of an issue because of the low Ze. Think I might just do it anyway for belt and braces - unless I'm just making life unnecessarily hard for myself?!?
cheers for your thoughts.
 
useful tools - hammer thru screwdriver or a small punch for opening cable entries, set of cobalt drill bits makes drilling into steel easy, some step drill bits and cutting fluid if you have to enlarge some holes.

Thanks - I've seen those step drill bits, but they seemed flippin' expensive!
however, if it's going to mean the difference between a decent, 'easy' job or a messy, difficult one, it could be money well spent!
Cobalt drill bits - we're talking 20mm and 25mm hole saws, right?
 
for entry holes - if you want to go from the back then mount it on couple of wooden battens. 20mm holes, rubber grommets, job done.
for top entry wooden battens and an mdf lid to cover it. paint with some wood primer for a tidy look.
 
I like to put a piece of 2x2 PVC trunking across the top of it attached using long 20mm bushes and lock rings. Makes for a tidy job.
The sheet metal holesaws by Armeg or CK are the business for making extra holes when needed.
 

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I like to put a piece of 2x2 PVC trunking across the top of it attached using long 20mm bushes and lock rings. Makes for a tidy job.
The sheet metal holesaws by Armeg or CK are the business for making extra holes when needed.

I hope you fire clipped the cables inside that plastic trunking and backfilled the cable entries with fire proof material if its situated in a hallway [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]
 

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