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nicebutdim
I suppose the other option if using swa single phase is to buy it the with the brown, blue, green/yellow colours.
Indeed, but it's not always possible to do so.
I suppose the other option if using swa single phase is to buy it the with the brown, blue, green/yellow colours.
I think so as well, especially as this one was with itThat's got to be a setup that one.
Seen a few like that on table lights and wall lights after an attempt to change a lamp.That's got to be a setup that one.
It gets betterer……View attachment 102864View attachment 102865View attachment 102866View attachment 102867View attachment 102876View attachment 102868View attachment 102869View attachment 102870View attachment 102871View attachment 102872View attachment 102873View attachment 102874View attachment 102875
What’s more amazing is the customer is adamant it’s not DIY. He had another electrician in who left the job half way through and hasn’t been back in touch.You’re onto a winnertoday with that lot.
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What’s more amazing is the customer is adamant it’s not DIY. He had another electrician in who left the job half way through and hasn’t been back in touch.I’m guessing he’s fell out with ‘Dave from the pub’.
I’ve disconnected the lot. Initially he was a bit miffed I’d disconnected it all. But I said that’s what needed to be done as it’s not safe. Explained to him a few options of how it can be resolved and he’s asked for a quote and when I have availability.
This is what got me the most. That’s a light switch providing switched isolation for the consumer unit.That’s good that he’s been reasonable about you disconnecting it and wants you to do it properly. It looks a right dogs dinner in those photos
First time I’ve seen SWA taken to one.And worryingly, that old white switch looks like the tidiest part of the job.
What’s more amazing is the customer is adamant it’s not DIY. He had another electrician in who left the job half way through and hasn’t been back in touch.I’m guessing he’s fell out with ‘Dave from the pub’.
I’ve disconnected the lot. Initially he was a bit miffed I’d disconnected it all. But I said that’s what needed to be done as it’s not safe. Explained to him a few options of how it can be resolved and he’s asked for a quote and when I have availability.
That’s the SWA for this abomination. It goes to the fused spur under the consumer unit you can see in one of the pics.Where's that what looks like swa in the meter cabinet come/goto
Ahhh I was wondering because it's following the dno cable I thought it may have been a bypass didn't realise it's looped throughThat’s the SWA for this abomination. It goes to the fused spur under the consumer unit you can see in one of the pics.
Not glanded anywhere, not that it matters as they’ve peeled the armour back to shove it into the box with the 3 core & earth PVC cable.![]()
Nothing like the sort of other crap that makes it here, but not my ideal job when not prepared to actually fix it properly. Best I could do at the time was to use on of the woodscrews to retain the CPCs.
Had I known the state I would have planned on a new backbox and maybe tried to space it forward so the normal (as supplied) screws would work. I just happened to have new 5cm ones (bizarrely enough, from another job a year ago where they turned out not to be needed so I left them in with small tools in car) so they did get clean screws as well as a new paint-free switch.Just use one of the upper or lower 3.5mm plate fixing screws.
Good idea!Maybe a timely video that I saw minutes ago!:
Had I known the state I would have planned on a new backbox and maybe tried to space it forward so the normal (as supplied) screws would work.
Brilliant suggestion!You can get extension collars for back boxes in various depths from any good electrical wholesaler, easier to fit than it is to try and remove a backbox without damaging the wall or just opening up a can of worms
Thanks, I think I have ordered from them before.Complete range of extension boxes from 16 - 35mm listed here Appleby Extension Boxes Frames 16mm 25mm 35mm Single Twin - https://www.edwardes.co.uk/categories/boxes-flush-metal-extension
Looks like a lazy way to bond the pipeworkWas this ever allowed? Using an earth pipe clamp on the armour of SWA?
This is in the gymnasium I’ve been doing little jobs in. Main bond goes to water pipe… a little too close to a soldered joint for my liking…. Then onto the SWA, then onto a gas pipe.
It wouldn’t be so surprising, but the building was used by an electrical firm before the gym bought it.
It could be an old 240v mains fire alarm, they were quite popular at one time although I've not seen one for many years as most were changed over to operating with a panel, so beware if doing any work on the fire alarm the break glasses may have mains voltage presentThe other thing, although I wasn’t working on it, I cannot find the fire alarm panel.
There’s break glasses and sounders, wired in surface red fp… but I can’t trace where they’re going over the ceiling of what was the offices.
Covered in insulation.
Funny thing is, the owner says it passed any fire safety check when he bought it. They must have just looked at the detectors and sounders and assumed there was a panel for it all.
(There is an RCBO in the board marked up for fire alarms)
Here is one of those mains units. Very simple equipment!It could be an old 240v mains fire alarm, they were quite popular at one time although I've not seen one for many years as most were changed over to operating with a panel, so beware if doing any work on the fire alarm the break glasses may have mains voltage present
Ah, nice to see an octal-base relay!Here is one of those mains units. Very simple equipment!
Is it FP200 or assumed to be FP200 and the reality is it is FP100 which was a horrible cable which if not terminated with the ferrules quite often failedI considered a mains operated system but the use of FP200 cable and what I assume are modern automatic detectors probably rules this out.
Some of the mains systems didn't even have that just a 3 core cable linking breakglasses and sounders some even used the old drophead heat detectors as wellHere is one of those mains units. Very simple equipment!
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I think FP200 cable has a foil layer that is in contact with the CPC so I would not expect any electrostatic potential enough to trigger a non-contact probe outside it. You would have to try and some junction where the cores are exposed.I did run my non contact tester along the cable and it wasn’t lighting up… so I expect it’s ELV
Is it FP200 or assumed to be FP200 and the reality is it is FP100 which was a horrible cable which if not terminated with the ferrules quite often failed
It could even be pyro at a quick glance