kris jones

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Mentor
Hello guys,

Im pretty good with switch wiring although it has been an issue for me in the past. When I come up against 'not the norm' as in 1, 2 and intermediate, sometime i still get confused!

So today i was changing some emergency bulkheads for new fittings. The old ones had t+e )3 core and earth) wired directly into them however once i had take the old one down I rewired the t+e into a klik rose fitting and 25mm pvc end box so I could clip it together, then wire the 3c+e flex from the klik to the new bulkhead making it a nice neat job.

Although i completed the job without any issue or need to ask any colleagues its been on my mind!

The connections on the rose are L,N,E, LOOP and A. Ive googled it and A is for 'AUX'.

loop wasnt required and neutral/earth are self explanatory so were left with live and s/l. I connected live to L and s/l to A assuming this was right. Powered back up and the bulkhead is on along with the battery charge light. cut power and now battery kicks in and keeps the bulkhead on.
I assumed this was wrong as the bulk should go off when mains on and only turn on when a power cut?

still with me?

so....i switch the L and S/L at the klik assuming my connections are wrong and I have exactly the same as above. always on.

is this due to the permanent live or should i have put live to loop and s/l to A or L....

confusing myself! its not too late to fix it!

Cheers
 
There are a variety of ways to have an emergency light operate.
Switched on and off with normal lighting but comes on with battery when power fails. (needs 3&E)
Never on until power fails and then runs on battery. (needs T&E)
Always on at all times powered by supply when available and battery when power fails. (T&E or 3&E)

Your description states " t+e )3 core and earth)" which is not clear, was this twin and earth, or three core and earth, or both.
Assuming you meant the first bracket to be the other way round and were stating you were going to use the abbreviation t+e for three core and earth, then it would probably be a light which was switched on by a remote light switch (along with other lights perhaps) and has a permanent feed interrupted by a key switch to charge the battery.
If this is the case then it may well be that the light switch was on when you were checking the light fitting. Worth checking out how the light is intended to operate (and ensuring the light you are fitting is able to operate in that manner).
Normally a Kilk would be wired as in the diagram below but this would depend on which terminals you had connected each core of the 3 core flex into the light.
Emergency light switched and Klik.jpg
 
I would get an electrician in. Emergency lighting isn't something you should really be messing about with if you aren't sure what you're up 2.
 
some emergency lights have internal wiring connections that can be changed to two different configurations, maintained or non-maintained. Check the instruction leaflet. sounds like it is configured for maintained.
 

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kris jones

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Klik rose wiring help for em lights
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