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Discuss problems crimping with yellow crimps, 6mm. in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

I have to say that my daily ratchet crimp tool is CK and I have never had a problem with it. Still tight and makes a good compression every time. It is nearly 10 years old however and I do feel that CK tools in general were of a better quality some years back now. I had a set of CK drivers that lasted for years with daily abuse. I also had a newer batch that all shattered under normal use.


Seems to be the case with more than just tools these days unfortunately.
 
I wouldn't be surprised that the first crimp is faulty due to the indentations being too near the centre. Part of the width of the counductor crimp zone is wasted on the endstop as you say, the remainder is on the very end of the conductors where the strands are likely to splay and escape, or even be forcibly ejected as the tube becomes funnel-shaped at the edge of the crimp zone. I would liken it to the very end of a conductor pinched halfway under a choc block screw.

I do also share concerns about the mechcanical durability of yellow crimps and the current rating of a completed joint relative to the size of conductor. I would only use products from a proper manufacturer with published performance and dimensional specifications and approvals. For critical applications as per Darkwood and Davesparks I prefer uninsulated crimps with a hex die - mechanically stronger, more consistent and reliably gas-tight crimp pattern and easier to inspect for successful installation.
 
i'vegot those same ratchet cutters. cost £60.brilliant.cut right through SWA inc. the steel armour. ( i done up to 16mm) . can't comment on the crimpers except seen then at elex and they looked a good piece of kit.
 
What do you recon to this as it seems reasonably priced (maybe too reasonably priced)...

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=291059818578&alt=web

These style of hydraulic crimper regularly pop up on eBay for about the £50 mark, but I have no idea of their reliability.
To put them in context though, I used to use a set of a very similar style and construction and they were spot on. A company I worked for bought them for a switch room job they had on at the time. The difference was that those ones cost £900 for the set.
 
May give them a go then. The seller seems to indicate that they are ISO registered which means that their traceable items etc.
I need a new ratchet crimper for 10 - 16 mm crimps (which are £40 on their own) so not a bad offer if they work okay.
 
May give them a go then. The seller seems to indicate that they are ISO registered which means that their traceable items etc.
I need a new ratchet crimper for 10 - 16 mm crimps (which are £40 on their own) so not a bad offer if they work okay.

If the largest you are doing will be be 16mm then a hydraulic set are a bit overkill. Why not get something a bit mechanically simpler. Less to go wrong with them then, especially being a budget product.

6-50mm² Electrician Cable Wire Crimping Crimper Hand Tool Pliers Ratchet Crimp | eBay
 
I did see those, but thought they maybe a little too flimsy.

Mainly I just need 10 / 16 mm crimper as the bigger boy the boss has, so I get those when required (but handy to have my own for a later date).
 
The hydraulic crimper I have is by Hellerman Tyton, can't remember what it cost but I've had it a good few years and it's seen some action without any problems.
 
If the largest you are doing will be be 16mm then a hydraulic set are a bit overkill. Why not get something a bit mechanically simpler. Less to go wrong with them then, especially being a budget product.

6-50mm² Electrician Cable Wire Crimping Crimper Hand Tool Pliers Ratchet Crimp | eBay
ive got them exact ones, here is a crimp cut open

84f5c3d87238176c7e2da319d6710060.jpg
 
here is a crimp cut open

Not sure about that pic, there seem to be voids between the strands and the tube. Makes me think the terminal was the wrong size for the cable or the die wrong for the crimp. Or is it not cut through the fully crimped section that was right inside the die?
 
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.....Makes me think the terminal was the wrong size for the cable or the die wrong for the crimp......
I think this is an inherent issue with the insulated crimps, the wire is rarely an interference fit into the crimp the way it is with an uninsulated type, hence the gaps. I think the insulated crimps try to cover several different wire applications like fine stranded, course stranded and even more than one wire CSA with the yellow ones which are rated for 4mm and 6mm in the same crimp. On the Maplin website it states 'The yellow types are suitable for cable from 2.5 to 6.5mm'........they're best left for work on cars and bikes in my opinion.
 
If you are using the bigger crimps say 2.5mm2 and up always remember I squared R is your enemy and so at higher currents say past 10 amps it is easy to show a mistake that causes a small increase in resistance will cause a big issue. For 6mm2 I would suggest remembering that the crimps and the crimping tool should be considered a matched set and come from the same manufacturer, this is in fact the rule at places like CERN who have had fires due to bad crimps and they have a lot of high current power supplies.

Crimp
34072 - TE CONNECTIVITY / AMP - CRIMP TERMINAL, BUTT, YELLOW | Farnell element14

Die
58423-1 - TE CONNECTIVITY / AMP - DIE, PIDG/PLASTIGRIP | Farnell element14

Tool
354940-1 - TE CONNECTIVITY / AMP - CRIMP TOOL FRAME, PRO-CRIMPER III,NO DIE | Farnell element14
 
So rather than crimping to extend a circuit (I.e. 2.5 T&E) how would you recommend doing this - non-insulated / insulated crimps / solder (heat strink or not), connectors, wagon etc etc)?
 

Reply to problems crimping with yellow crimps, 6mm. in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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