Yes.. I know dodgy as ! we shall see along with many other surprises I'm sure
Isolate it like you would a solar inverter, there should be lots of labels alarming the dangers of alternative supplies 
. However when you do, expect a call from Elon asking"what the 8uck are you doing, leave it alone", lol
. However when you do, expect a call from Elon asking"what the 8uck are you doing, leave it alone", lol
That's my slight concern... nothing obvious at DB location labels or isolation.Isolate it like you would a solar inverter, there should be lots of labels alarming the dangers of alternative supplies
All I can see is rotary iso next to the 'outside unit.'
Looking back at my photos possibly 'inside unit' is plugged in to a 13a socket below
Anyone know how these actually work...
Would I be correct in thinking if there's an external power cut it's a back up ?
Like a UPS for whole property
This is the blind leading the blind, as I've only fitted one Zappi PV system. Can you find a manual?
But in terms of concepts....
Think of a normal supply and consumer unit.
Normally either
1) a way of the consumer unit will go off to the inverter (not great design).
2) there will be split tails and a separate consumer unit and a circuit going off to the inverter (the right way).
DC electricity falls from the sky onto the panels using witchcraft, and the inverter turns it in AC and back-feeds it into the supply using the same connection referred to above.
The batteries get charged when there is "spare" generation that the installation usage can't swallow. The batteries let themselves be used in a moderated way so the stored energy contributes to the supply.
But basically it should be one connection via a consumer unit to the whole shebang which both powers the inverter and accepts the generated / stored electricity.
As far as I'm aware inverters actually have to shut down if the grid supply is lost. So if there is a power cut you still have a power cut (which must be rather frustrating!).
In that installation I'd start by analysing the normal supply, consumer units, and final circuits, and that will lead you by elimination to how it's connected - I'm sensing that convention may not have been followed!
Be aware that the DC lines from the panels can be live at all times, and hopefully you will find an isolator for them somewhere.
That looks such a mess that I'd be in ultra-suspicious mode!
But in terms of concepts....
Think of a normal supply and consumer unit.
Normally either
1) a way of the consumer unit will go off to the inverter (not great design).
2) there will be split tails and a separate consumer unit and a circuit going off to the inverter (the right way).
DC electricity falls from the sky onto the panels using witchcraft, and the inverter turns it in AC and back-feeds it into the supply using the same connection referred to above.
The batteries get charged when there is "spare" generation that the installation usage can't swallow. The batteries let themselves be used in a moderated way so the stored energy contributes to the supply.
But basically it should be one connection via a consumer unit to the whole shebang which both powers the inverter and accepts the generated / stored electricity.
As far as I'm aware inverters actually have to shut down if the grid supply is lost. So if there is a power cut you still have a power cut (which must be rather frustrating!).
In that installation I'd start by analysing the normal supply, consumer units, and final circuits, and that will lead you by elimination to how it's connected - I'm sensing that convention may not have been followed!
Be aware that the DC lines from the panels can be live at all times, and hopefully you will find an isolator for them somewhere.
That looks such a mess that I'd be in ultra-suspicious mode!
With battery systems like Tesla and Sonnen, there is the option of running off grid with the correct equipment. So yes it could be set up to run like a UPS. I noticed a second Tesla panel under the CU, this could be the device that allows the house (or more likely certain ccts ) to be kept live running on batteries when there is a power cut. Either way the Rot isolater next to the powerwall outside needs to be Off if you want to feel safe.
If you get the covers off the Tesla panel under the CU you should be able to trace some circuits to see what it is doing. The Tesla is most likely also "online" as joked about before, client probably has the App, so at least when you have done and power it all back again you can check it is online and working.
Hope this helps
P&S
If you get the covers off the Tesla panel under the CU you should be able to trace some circuits to see what it is doing. The Tesla is most likely also "online" as joked about before, client probably has the App, so at least when you have done and power it all back again you can check it is online and working.
Hope this helps
P&S
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