Discuss Altered ring main, now a DIFFERENT circuit is not working? in the Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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dhclec

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I’ve just altered a ring main by taking 1 leg out of the board and taking it to a spur (then taking a leg back), to add a socket in. After doing so I’ve turned the board back on and everything is working as it should, other than cooker circuit (A radial feeding the cooker/hob, extractor fan and a heater. After checking ALL the connections in the board are ok and there are no exposed cables etc, I’m left baffled.

I only started out about 12 months ago so I’m not sure if this is just me being stupid and naive or if I need to call in some help. Any ideas?
 
Is the protective device definitely clamped to the busbar.

Definitely. I replaced the busbar last week after someone thought it would be a good idea to shove some twisted copper cable between the breakers where it had snapped... But the connection from the RCD to busbar is fine now
 
Op .... do a R1 + R2 then a Rn + R2 on your “dead” circuit and see what readings you get ...
I’ll look into that. I’ll need to figure out where the end of the circuit is, as knowing what the rest of the place is wired like, there’s probably something random spurred off it. Whole reason I did this is because the socket I just added to ring was originally spurred off a 8.5kw shower switch... If I get any abnormal readings then I’ll add them to the thread, thanks
 
When you say 'not working' do you mean that the MCB is on but nothing on the circuit is live? Have you done a voltage test at an outlet on that circuit - e.g. one of the appliances?
 
I’ll look into that. I’ll need to figure out where the end of the circuit is,

In your OP you stated that the cooker, extractor and heater aren't working - so I would check one of these points to establish what IS connected ......... then go from there. Finding the "end point", whilst being useful, isn't critical at this stage.

Let us know how you get on.
 
When you say 'not working' do you mean that the MCB is on but nothing on the circuit is live? Have you done a voltage test at an outlet on that circuit - e.g. one of the appliances?
So the MCB is still on, yes. I haven’t had a chance to carry out any tests yet as the problem occurred when I finished the job late last night. But I’ll be back to carry out R1/R2 etc. and voltage tests at the outlets. I’ll let you know how I get on.
 
If everything was working fine prior to you doing the alterations then you surely have disturbed something during the works, i'd be very surprised its just sheer coincidence. Either way, its most likely to be a loose or disconnected conductor. As Murdoch says its going to be a case of process of elimination.
 
If everything was working fine prior to you doing the alterations then you surely have disturbed something during the works, i'd be very surprised its just sheer coincidence. Either way, its most likely to be a loose or disconnected conductor. As Murdoch says its going to be a case of process of elimination.
There’s no doubt it’s something to do with the alteration. But I checked and checked again in regards to the connections in the board and I can’t see how I would’ve loosened/disconnected a conductor anywhere else as during the cable run I didn’t come across any other cables/circuits. I’m going to carry out some tests and find all the points in the circuit. I’ll check the connections of them all too and I’ll let you know if I find anything, thanks
 
Hate to suggest this, but is it possible in mounting your new socket/FCU you have drilled through the cooker circuit.

Maybe do a full set of continuity test on the cooker circuit, see if a break has occurred.

Then check your work hasn't caused it then ask the customer if they've been doing any DIY recently.

Wouldn't be the first time a customer has asked for a relatively simple job knowing there is another fault they're hoping you'll resolve.
 
Hate to suggest this, but is it possible in mounting your new socket/FCU you have drilled through the cooker circuit.

Maybe do a full set of continuity test on the cooker circuit, see if a break has occurred.

Then check your work hasn't caused it then ask the customer if they've been doing any DIY recently.

Wouldn't be the first time a customer has asked for a relatively simple job knowing there is another fault they're hoping you'll resolve.
Is it an rcd protected installation?
 
Hi,did you check personally,that the circuits now "off",were working originally?
No. However I’m doing this work at a relatives house who told me they were using it earlier that day - I take there word for it. I’ll definitely check myself next time though, thanks
 
Hate to suggest this, but is it possible in mounting your new socket/FCU you have drilled through the cooker circuit.

Maybe do a full set of continuity test on the cooker circuit, see if a break has occurred.

Then check your work hasn't caused it then ask the customer if they've been doing any DIY recently.

Wouldn't be the first time a customer has asked for a relatively simple job knowing there is another fault they're hoping you'll resolve.
Possibly. I’m carrying out some tests tonight, hopefully, so I should have a rough answer as to what’s happened. Both the spur and the socket are located away from where I think the cables were, and surely this would trip the breaker if I’d gone through it? But like I say I’ll do some tests and let you know, could be right. Thanks
 
Not sure if I followed totally exactly what has been done.

I would check first there is outgoing power on the non-working circuit, i.e. MCB is actually working (had a few fail after switching off for other work), busbar prong in cage clamp (Wylex ones especially).
 
Not sure if I followed totally exactly what has been done.

I would check first there is outgoing power on the non-working circuit, i.e. MCB is actually working (had a few fail after switching off for other work), busbar prong in cage clamp (Wylex ones especially).
That’s my plan. I didn’t have any testers with me when problem occurred but will be checking this later on. And yeah I will double check the busbar too, which is Wylex. Thanks for advice
 

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