Connector for outdoor floodlight

[naylorpd]

I have some outdoor floodlights at home in Azerbaijan, which need replacing. The way they are connected is in the photos - cable through the stone base then up into a waterproof box through a gland.

The problem is that the newer model floodlights that I can buy have much shorter cables - barely 6". And if I take the back off the light, the power cable is soldered to a PCB, unlike the last ones where I could and did change the cable for a longer one.

It seems to me that I need to join the cable underneath the stone base before it goes into the gland. So what are my options for a safe connection? The local method would be PVC tape!

I can get Waco connectors here but anything more esoteric probably not.

Thanks

 

[freddo]

In the UK we often use something like this for joining 2 flexes outside. Though I'd just solder a new flex to the PCB!

 

[pc1966]

One step up from PVC tape is the self-amalgamating sort. Basically it is like rubber but when it is against itself it slowly moulds in to itself:

AT87 | Advance Tapes Black Self Amalgamating Tape 25mm x 10m | RS

uk.rs-online.com

It is pretty resistant to heat, water and UV light. Usually you wrap it around, pulling a little, and then hold the tail tight for 30 seconds or so until it seems stuck.

But as freddo has already said, soldering a new iwre is an option - you should practice on something else first though!

 

[telectrix]

I'm with freddo here. diss. the existing flex from the PCB and resolder a longer length while the iron is still burning your pinkies.

 

[naylorpd]

Hmmm...sounds like I have to test my soldering skills. Used to be OK about 30 years ago!
Thanks guys

 

[telectrix]

Hmmm...sounds like I have to test my soldering skills. Used to be OK about 30 years ago!
Thanks guys

just swig a half pint of Jack Daniels. nerves steady as a rock then, even better than 30 years ago.

 

[pc1966]

Is there space inside the floodlamp back for a joint? You might be able to use the exiting wire and something like this:

RS PRO Butt Splice Connector, Red, Insulated, Tin 22 → 16 AWG | RS

uk.rs-online.com

It is usually cheap and easy to get that sort of thing for car electrics, but if you can possibly afford it get a ratchet tool as the simple pliers-type don't give such reliable joints.

 

[naylorpd]

Is there space in the floodlamp back for a joint? You might be able to use the exiting wire and something like this:
crimp-butt-splice-terminals

Not sure, I've only looked at the lights in the shop so far. There would need to be space for three though, with the newer LED lights I suspect not.

I use these quite a lot (before Waco was available here), most of my house lights are connected with them so I do have a ratchet tool.

 

[Wilko]

Hmmm...sounds like I have to test my soldering skills. Used to be OK about 30 years ago!
Thanks guys

Hi - good excuse to buy a new soldering iron .

 

[naylorpd]

Hi - good excuse to buy a new soldering iron .

Well I still have my trusty old Antex, with a home-built Maplin (remember them...?) temperature controller kit. But I need some new tips, can't get here I don't think.

 

[freddo]

But I need some new tips, can't get here I don't think.

That would be a project to make your own! Some small copper tube shaped into a bit, then iron plated with electrolysis.

 

[telectrix]

i still got my Weller 100watt from back in the 70's . it fixed hundreds of the early CRT televisions, some with valves. if no new tip available when needed, a bit of 2.5mm stripped out of T/E and bent to suit, made do for a few days. the iron has had 40 new tips and a new silicon flex, but it's still my iron. like Trigger's broom.

 

[Ray Pooley]

I have some outdoor floodlights at home in Azerbaijan, which need replacing. The way they are connected is in the photos - cable through the stone base then up into a waterproof box through a gland.

The problem is that the newer model floodlights that I can buy have much shorter cables - barely 6". And if I take the back off the light, the power cable is soldered to a PCB, unlike the last ones where I could and did change the cable for a longer one.

It seems to me that I need to join the cable underneath the stone base before it goes into the gland. So what are my options for a safe connection? The local method would be PVC tape!

I can get Waco connectors here but anything more esoteric probably not.

Thanks
View attachment 57548View attachment 57549

[automerge]1587565285[/automerge]

i still got my Weller 100watt from back in the 70's . it fixed hundreds of the early CRT televisions, some with valves. if no new tip available when needed, a bit of 2.5mm stripped out of T/E and bent to suit, made do for a few days. the iron has had 40 new tips and a new silicon flex, but it's still my iron. like Trigger's broom.
View attachment 57551

Here's mine. (Not actually mine in the picture. Just couldn't be bothered taking a pic).