Discuss Dodgy trade pictures for your amusement! - 1 Million Views! in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Apparently it was all done when the el cheapo kitchen cupboards were added about 4-5yrs ago. I can't understand why they didn't use the service void and some trunking if that was the case.
Yes in a perfect world you can screw some plastic trunking on the wall and run any cables in prior to the units being installed.
However on many an occasion I get a call at the last minute saying 'please can you pop round and put in some new sockets in our new kitchen' to find the kitchen is all but 99% installed and I am having to fish cables under the units and carefully chase up behind the brand new worktops that were just laid last week
 
Yes in a perfect world you can screw some plastic trunking on the wall and run any cables in prior to the units being installed.
However on many an occasion I get a call at the last minute saying 'please can you pop round and put in some new sockets in our new kitchen' to find the kitchen is all but 99% installed and I am having to fish cables under the units and carefully chase up behind the brand new worktops that were just laid last week
That was a bit like one I had a while ago.

'Can we have some additional sockets and lights fitted?"

Walls were all tiled from worktop to ceiling and they had one pendant in the centre and wanted downlights and 3 separate pendants over the dining table.

I managed it with a lot of patience and the help of quinetic switching. But they were under no illusion I couldn't guarantee no breaks in the tiles or additional holes in the newly plastered and painted ceiling.
 
I then found this in a socket in the lounge at the opposite end of the house to the kitchen.

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That black and red looks like it might be polythene T&E, which was made for a short time between after rubber and before PVC.
Splits along the length of the wire are common with this stuff.
 
I get that with kitchens as well. Doing one just now where the customer isn’t in a great hurry… the old cabinets are being taken out wall by wall, and I get in inbetween to do any electrical work.

Wago box behind the kickboard ends up being the only option sometimes. The joiner is coming unannounced in the evenings, so I get a text the day after, then have to reorganise planned work to get in before he comes back.

Last week I uncovered a floor hatch, thinking that’s going to make my life easier… just for the gas fitter to come before I got back. (The joiner couldn’t find it at first even though it has “hatch” written all over it!)

Still room, but I’ve got a dicky knee and they’re only 12” space down there.
I don’t bend like I used to.

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This is so typical of builders wiring , roughly installed , stripped with an axe, cores all twisted up and bent and all mangled terminations.
We find this type of brand New install all of the time , literally all of the time.
I honestly think they just don't give a ---- , even in their own house
Pmsl
 
Today's fun. I was only there to change a cracked socket front a quick end of day job, which I did.

As far as I can tell it's TT (found the rod and getting 2 ohms Zs from CPC bar) but can't verify what else is bonded at this point. There's only one earth wire that isn't a CPC coming into the board, so suspect there's a MET somewhere in Narnia.
I didn't want to try a high current test in case there's an upfront RCD in there too!

Also of note is the split load board, so potentially inadequate fault protection for right hand half if parallel paths are removed.
I had to say that I couldn't prove I'd left it in a safe condition and I'd have to return, take the panel off and see what is actually going on.
(The panel is actually about 4 times as tall as shown and extends to the top of the stair well just to help matters)

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Some photo's pointing my phone in the hole...
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The earth wire below goes to an old oil pipe not the cut-out btw

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As far as I can tell it's TT (found the rod and getting 2 ohms Zs from CPC bar) but can't verify what else is bonded at this point. There's only one earth wire that isn't a CPC coming into the board, so suspect there's a MET somewhere in Narnia.
2 ohms is either a very rubbish TN or a suspiciously good TT result!

Of course if there is a lot of oil pipe or whatever buried in damp ground then 2 ohms is possible, but it feels to me like a lot of buried metal or extraordinarily wet & salty ground.
 
On the theme of plumber. Couple of call outs on Monday.

First one was a tripping boiler. Plumber had the wisdom to put the wireless stat directly under the boiler, which leaked straight into the stat. They’ve also used the earth as a core.

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Second one was from a plumber who was trying to wire in a switch for an immersion and also a shower pump. Couldn’t work out why every time they screwed the switch back it tripped.

I politely told them it was their rubbish wiring and they’ve nicked the live so it’s tripping on the back box.

I sorted it all out and tidied it all up.

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At a friend's party last night, but seeing an extension lead plugged in to an extension lead, plugged in to a multi-way adaptor in the hall for the garden use and not and RCD in sight made me wince. Had a quick look as she was telling me of other electrical woes and its not pretty, though far from the worst to appear here. Sadly whoever did the last wiring could not be bothered to remove the old heating fuse box, not event to remove or cut the tails off!

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The top butchers of the box is impressive, more care and effort than a hammer hole, but still such a mess. Of course why put in a blank when there is a live busbar within finger reach?

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The supply is in pyro and I hope the red sleeve is just for identification as it looks af if the copper is exposed off the pot, but maybe there is black sleeving below? I decided not to poke it just to find out.

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Its not a great installation and at some point I should try and help out. Blanking the spare and maybe RCBOs replacing the Proteus MCBs is an option to avoid the hassle of trying to redo the tails the correct (non seal faerie way) but I don't know if current Proteus RCBOs are compatible, and for all the cost a new metal CU of a brand I prefer might be less trouble in the long run.
 
Price to Rip that entire monstrosity out and start from scratch all new , or don't touch it at all
If this was commercial then 100% what you say.

As a friend I would be happy to donate my support but it probably comes to the same thing - the cost of a new CU is less than the time wasted trying to make something less crap out of what is there. The other thing slightly troubling me is this is a 40-60s build I guess, and it has asbestos panels in places, so I am not going to make changes that mean new holes being drilled. Thankfully there is plenty of 19mm (I think) plywood there to fix stuff to.

I also dread to think what else will need attended to. There is an unmarked 16A MCB which needs to be identified, also there appears to be two RFC for a two bedroom flat, so possibly one is for the kitchen. But it has damn-all sockets and so she has an extension lead to plug in dishwasher and washing machine in to a single socket under the sink. Yes, more WFT? and another burned out aspect to properly fix.

The other oddity is two 16A socket circuits for the attic conversion. It is a single big room with only around 6 sets of sockets! Wonder if it was done by EU folks?

Single light circuit is another thing, though I would not be too surprised if that unmarked 16A turned out to be attic lights. And there is an outside PIR flood-lamp that is playing up and she is unaware of any means to switch it off, or indeed what circuit it was taken off.
 
While trying to find out why a bathroom light doesn't work (for 3 months and multiple people have looked at it and ran away), it was obvious there was no power to switch...and the cable toner/tracer led me to this point as where it left the room. There was a suspicious severed cable the other side of the wall so I thought I'd have a look.
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I decided to make the old feed safe and run a new one in the end. As there was no loft at all in this house it was time to break out the super-rods and today was my lucky day:.
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And then some D-Line, sticks like, and filler (and some future sanding and painting....)
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The exciting candlelit bathroom visits are no more.
 

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Nicely done! I particularly like how they have left some of the bedding material on the conductors to give that little bit of extra protection. It’s little touches like that which sets them apart from other installers…
I agree it’s probably one of the best worse.
It looks like they couldn’t be bothered with the cabinet door either.
 
This is at the funeral directors I’m at today.
Behind a locked door, so no immediate danger, but I’ve told them to talk to DNO.

3ph cut out. L1 unused, L2 does the funeral parlour and L3 (which I suspect is a link) runs upstairs to another fuse for a flat.

Should have been noticed when the meter was changed last September.

L1 has two exposed terminals, L2 has its spare terminal capped off with a plastic pin and L3 has 1 exposed terminal.

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